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Homemade Air Cleaner

  • Thread starter Thread starter TonyDa
  • Start date Start date
T

TonyDa

Guest
Here goes:

Most construction material types are color coded by manufacturer. Is air cleaner foam the same? The UNI foam blank sheet seems to be the exact same color as this product below. Is this a coincidence?

http://www.joann.com/catalog.jhtml?CATID=156486&PRODID=81580&source=search


I haven't tried this yet but am thinking about it. Any reason to be talked out of hot-gluing up a brand new foam filter (at a nice big discount)?

Im sure someone else has tried this before...Thanks


82 gs850 GL
 
I'm very interested in this as well, so if you do it you have to do a write up [-o< . I don't know if something real high density would be good (may restrict air flow) but I think you are definately on to something here. My bike doesn't have an air filter so I need to get one but would rather make one like you are thinking about doing. Good luck.
 
A thought:
Make absolutely sure the foam and glue you use is IMPERVIOUS to petroleum distillates. Not just "resistant". Last thing you want is a custom air filter disintegrating and getting sucked into your motor.
That would make me cry.
 
sounds like this may require a test involving a small cup of gas and a chunk of the foam first. if I am outside and am not playing with a lighter, the consequences should be less severe than particle chunks into the engine.

I may be putting too much importance in the foam color but we'll see.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspad-gr.html

This foam above looks the same and seems to be made for some nastier cleaners/chemicals.

I had another qustion but will jsut start another thread. Thanks
 
Another idea about air filter altogether.... What if you went to wal mart with your airbox and found a filter that fit over the top of the box and then cut out a metal plate that will hold it in place (and of course cut it in a way as to make sure the airflow isn't plugged up). Are there any reasons why I wouldn't be able to do that? Don't mean to detract from your thread but our ultimate goal is cheap air filtration. Just wondering what the rest of you guys think about this idea.
 
Another idea about air filter altogether.... What if you went to wal mart with your airbox and found a filter that fit over the top of the box and then cut out a metal plate that will hold it in place (and of course cut it in a way as to make sure the airflow isn't plugged up). Are there any reasons why I wouldn't be able to do that? Don't mean to detract from your thread but our ultimate goal is cheap air filtration. Just wondering what the rest of you guys think about this idea.


that was my plan as well
 
A popular mod on the Suzuki SV's is to remove the top lid on the airbox, dremel off everything but the original "ring" of plastic that screws to the bottom portion and holds the halves together, and use it to secure a sheet of Uni (or similar) filter foam over the airbox, creating one big filtered hole.

Using a K&N or similar in the top of the trimmed airbox would work, and probably work well....
 
I dont know much about air filtration....but these people do. They put filters on everything. Just cause a material is more dense may not mean it will filter any better than a thin pourous material.

Maybe they can shed some light on a homemade filter.

Donaldson Company, Inc.
 
I know there's more up front cost, but I recommend replacing the stock filter with one from K&N. It should far outlast the foam type to make it cheaper in the long run.
 
Well, I'm no chemist but tested out the Jo-Ann foam (originally for the seat) by soaking a chunk in a gas-oil mix for 12 hours.

I saw no signs of any type of dissolving/reaction. If the gas eats the foam at all, then it is VERY minimal and leaves no trace/residue. I figured that over a 12 hour overnight period, if the gas DID eat the foam, there wouldnt be much left at all this morning. Im not sure if this is the best way to check but all of the cut edges on the foam were still at 90 degrees.

If I missed something obvious please let me know. In a way, this is bad because the results almost appear positive. I take no responsibility for someone trying out this (could be) stupid idea, haha.
 
There is no way of knowing if the foam will flow the same amount of air. Then you may end up having to rejet. If it were me I would just get a stock replacement from bikebandit or local dealer. I don't know which bike you have but for a 1000 the filter is $24 I believe.
 
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Well, I'm no chemist but tested out the Jo-Ann foam (originally for the seat) by soaking a chunk in a gas-oil mix for 12 hours.

I saw no signs of any type of dissolving/reaction. If the gas eats the foam at all, then it is VERY minimal and leaves no trace/residue. I figured that over a 12 hour overnight period, if the gas DID eat the foam, there wouldnt be much left at all this morning. Im not sure if this is the best way to check but all of the cut edges on the foam were still at 90 degrees.

If I missed something obvious please let me know. In a way, this is bad because the results almost appear positive. I take no responsibility for someone trying out this (could be) stupid idea, haha.

That foam will last a long time in a fuel/oil environment. It will degenerate with age though. You will be cleaning and re-oiling it on a regular basis, so just keep an eye on its condition. My foam is 6mm thick and is cut to the shape of the metal gauze and is secured to the outside of the screen by the frame and light fuse wire.
 
Hello 49er - what type of foam did you end up using and where did you find you could get it?? Have you used your home made filter for long??
thanks
 
jetta90, the foam that TonyDa was testing is listed as high density foam.
The foam I use on my OEM airbox is a low density foam similar in appearance and colour to what is used for car washing sponges. The only visual difference is the sheet thickness. I am using this foam sheet as a replacement for the original foam. You can purchase it in various thicknesses at any rubber wholesaler over here.
 
There is a way to test to see if the volume of air flow will be the same.

to test:

- clear pipe. diameter isn't really important, read the instructions and decide for you self. The longer the better.

- close (but not tight) fitting ball or plunger to go inside the clear pipe. you want some mass here. ping pong balls are probably a no go, but then so are lead balls.

- section of your stock foam that more than covers the bottom end of the pipe remember air can flow out the sides of the flow section. most Ideal is if you cut out a puck of foam with a good fit to the inside of the pipe, and then rig it so as that it will not fall out the bottom (use common sense/ducktape here)

- stop watch

put the foam in one end, your ball/plunger in the other, and time how long it takes for the ball/plunger to fall. If the rate of decent for each foam in the same, then the air flows match.
Foam density isn't really an issue, because you can probably vary the thinknesses to match the air flows.

eventualy this will be what I do so i can make my own pod filters.
 
Well, I'm no chemist but tested out the Jo-Ann foam (originally for the seat) by soaking a chunk in a gas-oil mix for 12 hours.

I worked in the tire and rubber industry. The standard test for solvents for solid parts (not foam) immerses the part for x hours, and compares the physical properties before and after immersion. Some such properties are hardness (Durometer), modulus of elasticity, tensile strength and ultimate elongation. A less sensitive test is swelling. If the part doesn't absorb any solvent, it probably isn't affected by the solvent. Swelling can be measured by weight or volume. It would be hard to do this with foam. And I wouldn't be impressed with a 12 hour test. The filter will be exposed to gasoline fumes for a couple of years at a time.

Why is it important to use something other than a UNI foam sheet? UNI foam isn't very expensive compared to the cost of an air filter. The foam being considered comes in much larger sheets than anyone would need for an air filter. I wouldn't even consider buying foam that hadn't been tested in an industrial lab for solvent resistance.
 
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