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homemade bike lift

  • Thread starter Thread starter mtalneck78
  • Start date Start date
All I wanna know is when can you make me one and how much should I make the check for. Best bike lift I've seen.
 
Ok, I've been thinking about it, and there's one change I'd make that would put the icing on your awesome cake ...

If you can redesign the arm and the base so that both of them fold against the main beam you will have a kick-ass lift that stores against the wall, taking up only a few inches when you're not using it!! I'm thinking the use of some high strength pins would give you a lift capable of handling several thousand pounds without compromising versatility.

You'd make a "mint" selling them at reasonable profit!

Regards,
 
Wow, didn't really expect this much responce from my lift. I have thought about selling this in some way, but I am concerned about the liability problems involved. I mean....what if somebody gets hurt, or worse, because their bike falls off the lift(improperly mounted). Will I get sued by some crooked a$$ lawyer? You just can't hardly trust some people nowdays. I might make a few(for GS members) after coming up with a more universal mounting system, but probably need some legal help. Anybody know about this type problem?

Here is a recent pic of my GS getting new tires, bearings, chain/sprokets, & other assorted work. Couldn't imagine doing this without my lift.
 
mtalneck78 said:
Wow, didn't really expect this much responce from my lift. I have thought about selling this in some way, but I am concerned about the liability problems involved. I mean....what if somebody gets hurt, or worse, because their bike falls off the lift(improperly mounted). Will I get sued by some crooked a$$ lawyer? You just can't hardly trust some people nowdays. I might make a few(for GS members) after coming up with a more universal mounting system, but probably need some legal help. Anybody know about this type problem?

Here is a recent pic of my GS getting new tires, bearings, chain/sprokets, & other assorted work. Couldn't imagine doing this without my lift.
If you make them for members just make them provide a no liability guarantee for you. Something signed and notarized that they are using it at their own risk. You have us as witnesses.

Bert Patterson is a lawyer, though this isn't his field. He may be able to give you a little guidance.
 
Hey, they sell parachutes, don't they?

The bike lift sure would beat my hoist. It's basically an LVL beam in my basement that I attach huge ratchet straps to (you know, like logging trucks use) to hold the bike up. It's a pain becasue the bike moves becasue it's held by straps (10k lbs per strap).
 
Jethro said:
Hey, they sell parachutes, don't they?

The bike lift sure would beat my hoist. It's basically an LVL beam in my basement that I attach huge ratchet straps to (you know, like logging trucks use) to hold the bike up. It's a pain becasue the bike moves becasue it's held by straps (10k lbs per strap).

Jethro...try Kreeming a tank while having it on a bike (which it won't come off of since its part of the frame) on straps hanging from the ceiling...see...now that sucks!
 
mtalneck78 said:
I would be glad to help anyone, & you can also log onto SHOPFLOORTALK.com for some really good advice & help with tool purchases.

I would not advise you to buy one of those cheap Harbor Freight import type mig welders. Even if you only use it once in a while, it is a bad investment. I bought one of those many years ago, & it turned out to be a big joke. Put it in the trash, got a decent US brand mig, & have been very happy.

I want to get into welding myself. I was curious to what the difference between MIG and TIG welding is...and if they would both be used for welding on motorcyle frames/parts.

I was also curious as to how much a good welder goes for..that will be capable of taking on motorcycle welding purposes. I've seen some cheap ones at the local hardware stores..but they even say "for the hobbiest"..so I'm assuming they wouldn't fit the bill.

Thanks
 
A MIG welder uses a spool of wire (solid or flux cored) that is pushed into the weld puddle with a hand held gun. This form of welding is alot easier to learn than any other. I bought a Lincoln 175amp portable unit that I like alot. I think you can get them for around $500-$700 depending if catch one on sale. This is a 220v model, but you can also get a 110v. Just depends on the metal thickness to be welded.

A TIG welder has a handheld torch that uses a tungsten electrode to strike the arc that forms the weld puddle. You use your other hand to dip a filler rod into the puddle if more metal is needed to form the joint. TIG is harder to learn, but is much more accurate than MIG. TIG is much slower than MIG, but makes some really nice welds. I have a Lincoln 175 Pro Tig That sees alot of use. I think I payed $1400 for it about 3yrs ago. With Tig you are using both hands & a foot pedal amp control, so it takes some practice.

Books will help you get started, but the only way to learn is to turn the welder on & burn some (alot) of rod.

Both MIG & TIG are used to weld motorcycle parts, but do some shopping around & don't buy a cheap welder. You can't go wrong with just about any USA brand welder.

Hope this helps.
 
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Don't forget about the buzz box. Stick welding is another good option, as long as you're talking steel, not aluminum. I prefer it to mig overall, you have to knock off the slag, but tends to be more accurate then mig. You can get into one cheap too, I picked up an AC only Lincoln for under $300. Someday I'll get a Tig setup for doing the nice stuff. Welding takes a lot of practice to get good at, but isn't hard to start, and is addicting once you do.

Great lift, if you don't mind me asking, what size/type of screw is that?
 
Is there certain things (jobs) that should only be done with a TIG and certain things that should only be done with a MIG? or is it whatever gets the job done?
 
I learned to weld on an Lincoln stick welder, but I currently use a Hobart Handler 140. It is a nice unit and the largest I could find that would run on 115v. I am using fluxcore wire, but it also had a shielding gas setup, but I don't have a bottle for the gas. Welds up exhaust pipes nicely.

They sell them at TSC and many other stores. Look to spend $300 plus to get a decent unit. This will weld just about anything I need to due, but I would like an old arc welder too for the heavy stuff.

Allen
 
chicagogsx said:
Is there certain things (jobs) that should only be done with a TIG and certain things that should only be done with a MIG? or is it whatever gets the job done?

TIG is better for aluminum & other exotic metals. After learning how to TIG, I don't use my mig as much anymore. The weld quality of TIG ,in my opinion, is much better than MIG, but it is much slower with a TIG. I would suggest starting out with a MIG welder. I too had one of those old stick welders, but got rid of it after getting the MIG. You can safely weld up to about 1/4" &
3/8" steel with practice & proper procedures, with one of the portable type MIG welders(3/8 would need flux core wire). I have never come across anything thicker than that, while doing motorcycle work. A spool gun would be suggested for welding alum. with MIG, but a TIG does a much better job in aluminum.

Again...this is just my opinion. I am not a professional welder, but have been welding now for about 15yrs.
 
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lhanscom said:
Don't forget about the buzz box. Stick welding is another good option, as long as you're talking steel, not aluminum. I prefer it to mig overall, you have to knock off the slag, but tends to be more accurate then mig. You can get into one cheap too, I picked up an AC only Lincoln for under $300. Someday I'll get a Tig setup for doing the nice stuff. Welding takes a lot of practice to get good at, but isn't hard to start, and is addicting once you do.

Great lift, if you don't mind me asking, what size/type of screw is that?

Leadscrew is 3/4" dia. ACME thread pitch..3ft long. I learned the hard way that hardware grade UNC thread pitch is going to strip out on you. Do not weld the nut to the lift, it needs to float around in a welded up fixture.
 
mtalneck78 said:
Leadscrew is 3/4" dia. ACME thread pitch..3ft long. I learned the hard way that hardware grade UNC thread pitch is going to strip out on you. Do not weld the nut to the lift, it needs to float around in a welded up fixture.

Thanks for that tip. I was looking at some 3/4 threaded rod at Ace yesterday.

Allen
 
mtalneck78 said:
TIG is better for aluminum & other exotic metals. After learning how to TIG, I don't use my mig as much anymore. The weld quality of TIG ,in my opinion, is much better than MIG, but it is much slower with a TIG. I would suggest starting out with a MIG welder. I too had one of those old stick welders, but got rid of it after getting the MIG. You can safely weld up to about 1/4" &
3/8" steel with practice & proper procedures, with one of the portable type MIG welders(3/8 would need flux core wire). I have never come across anything thicker than that, while doing motorcycle work. A spool gun would be suggested for welding alum. with MIG, but a TIG does a much better job in aluminum.

Again...this is just my opinion. I am not a professional welder, but have been welding now for about 15yrs.

Is there any limits to MIG welding, as far as what metals you can use it on?
You had mentioned "TIG is better for aluminum & other exotic metals", but since you recommended starting with MIG, I was curious as to what it's limitations to metal applications were, if any.

Right now my goal is to learn how to weld good enough to be able to fabricate my own fender, fender mounts, sissy bar, custom seat stuff, etc...
nothing too crazy in my opinion.
 
MIG is only limited by the power available to and from the unit, I have welded 2" plate together with a MIG.
To MIG aluminium you need to get tthe CORRECT wire and GAS. TIG is overrated IMNSHO it is however an artform, when done well. Do not underestimate the ability of a basic arc or stick welder, once again you are only limited by the availability of rods.
Dink
 
For the treaded rod, I know where to score a bunch, next to free, large diameter, strong, heavy thread, :?
Farm equipment wrecker, all Massey combines had a large diameter threaded rod to adjust the return spring load for the table. It has to be four feet long, that is where I am getting my rod for this project, thanks for the great idea:(
Never would have come up with it myself, I'm just not that creative.8-[
 
Clone said:
For the treaded rod, I know where to score a bunch, next to free, large diameter, strong, heavy thread, :?
Farm equipment wrecker, all Massey combines had a large diameter threaded rod to adjust the return spring load for the table. It has to be four feet long, that is where I am getting my rod for this project, thanks for the great idea:(
Never would have come up with it myself, I'm just not that creative.8-[

I have my dad go to the combine salvage then. Welcome to the midwest right? The don't have that type of equipment in the Atlanta metro.

Thanks for that tip.

Allen
 
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