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Honda R/R failing in Suzuki GS?

  • Thread starter Thread starter bgk
  • Start date Start date
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bgk

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Last fall, I installed a Honda regulator/rectifier in my 1980 GS1000G. Since that time, I?ve forgotten the Honda/Shindengen part number, but I?m confident that the Honda R/R that I got is one of the ?right ones? as recommended by many GSR members.

I?ve recently started to experience weird charging problems. For a few weeks of riding about every other day for an hour or so in the evenings, my bike runs fine, and charges fine. Then, for no apparent reason, during the ride it stops charging and starts to wear the battery down. I can tell it?s losing charge while I?m riding because the instrument panel lights get dim and the turn signals slow down. When this happens, I just head straight home.

After this happens, I charge the battery overnight on a low amp trickle charger (Battery Tender). In the morning, I check voltage across the battery and get 13.2 volts DC after disconnecting the battery charger and before starting the engine, then a dip to around 11 volts at start-up, then right up around 13.5 volts at 2000 rpm during warm-up on choke, and then around 14.8 volts with a quick blip of the throttle up to 5000 rpm. I also disconnect the three wires coming from the stator and get over 70 volts AC when I probe any two of the three stator wires with the multimeter leads, and check all three combinations of two-lead pairings.

Then, I can ride occasionally for a week or two with no charging problems.

This afternoon/evening, this symptom happened again during a ride, and I took the bike home and immediately checked the charging system. No DC voltage increase at the battery under any engine RPM, yet 70 volts AC out of the stator.

So, all this tells me that my charging system works fine when the bike is cold/cool, but occasionally stops charging when gets hot, and my tests tell me that my stator is fine, but my R/R is suspect.

I?m afraid to follow the Stator Pages directions on this website because they pertain to the stock Suzuki stator, and because I?m just slightly above the Dummy stage of understanding electrical stuff. I?m also too cheap/broke right now to buy a new Rick?s or Electrosport R/R, each of which costs about $100 or more.

My Honda R/R has 7 wires, three yellow that I have bullet-connected direct to the three stator wires, two green that I have wired together and connected direct to the negative battery terminal, and two red that I have wired together and connected direct to the positive battery terminal.

Any suggestions for further diagnosis, or have I already confirmed that my R/R is toast, and that I either have to risk another used Honda R/R on eBay, or pony up the dough for a new Rick?s or Electrosport unit?
 
Bump.

Anybody have any ideas?

I desperately want to fix this problem ASAP, so I can ride this Memorial Day weekend.

Thank you.
 
bgk said:
or pony up the dough for a new Rick?s or Electrosport unit?
Personally Brion, I would say go the Electrex way.
I have had mine on for about 3 years and have had no charging issues since.\\:D/ :-D :-D
 
Yeah, your R/R is cutting out intermittently because it's on the verge of total failure. Youve verified the stator, so it's got to be the R/R.
I got the Electrex R/R and it's been running strong for 2-3 years now.
Something I've learned after restoring four non-running bikes: I originally thought that electrical components (igniter, coils, R/R, etc.) either work 100% or don't work at all. Now I know that is not true. All of the electrics can fail gradually and show up as intermittent problems until they finally fail totally.
I've had R/R (on two Suzukis), coil and electrical rotor (on a 1980 Honda CB750) that failed gradually. I spent tons of time messing with carbs when the problem was electrics all along (which I found out when the component finally died totally).
 
R/R wiring is probably wrong

R/R wiring is probably wrong

As I recall my 83 GS750ES had a five wire Suzuki R/R that went bad. I got a Honda CM R/R that had six wires on it. The extra wire had to go to a circuit that was charged only when the key is in the on position, the rear running light is a common choice.


If it were mine I would:
A. Get the part number of your R/R and do a web search with Shindengen and the part number. I did with mine and got a website with a wiring diagram.
B. Check all your wires and connections. Repair any damage and make sure the connections are good and constant.
C. Make sure the R/R is in an area where heat can dissipate.
D. Make absolutely sure there is a constant continuity between the negative of the battery and the R/R housing.

Unfortunately these intermittent problems are hard to diagnosis unless you can test while the failure is occurring. You should also test each leg of the stator for grounding. It is done with the engine off. If there is any continuity from the stator wire to ground the stator is toast.

If you do find you need a new R/R then a used or new Honda is the way to go. They are excellent units. When you find one on e-bay use the part number to find a wiring diagram. If you can't determine if it?s compatible with your bike ask for help here. LOL!!!
 
I bought a brand new Shindegen for my 1100. In the parts book it said the fitment is for a Honda 400, and the number on it is SH532-12. :-D
 
Shindengen SH232-12.

Search the forum for "Shindengen" and you'll find lots of stuff.
 
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