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Honda Regulator Install (Dial-up Beware!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Arkaloid
  • Start date Start date
A

Arkaloid

Guest
Recently Suzi's regulator took a dump, and like others on here, I replaced it with a Honda regulator. from postings on here, the bolt holes would line up, and with some small wire mods, it should work. So one EBAY auction and a week to get it here later, here are the results:

The regulator was a Shindengen Sh538-12 from a CM400 Honda. The wiring was to be connected as follows:
3 yellows from honda regulator to stator
1 green ground from honda regulator to Battery Negative post
1 red from honda regulator to existing red fuse box wiring
1 black from honda regulator to orange headlight wire in connector at fuse box for sensing. I used that in sans of the tail light wire method to get what I felt was a more accurate voltage from the battery. Here is where I hooked it up at:
Pic1.jpg



Pulling the connector off the fusebox, and using a jewelers screwdriver, I removed the spade terminal from the connector:
Pic2.jpg



Insert the driver in until the little tab gets pushed down, and frees the terminal from the connector:
Pic3.jpg



Using new spades, usually available at radio Shack or other electronic outlets....:
Pic4.jpg




Apparently the maximum allowed image attachments is 4, so i will include the rest in part 2, 3, and 4
 
Last edited:
Part 2

Part 2

Install the new sensing wire to the original orange wire on the fuseblock, and install the new connector:
Pic5.jpg



Install into connector until you feel it 'click' in place:
Pic6.jpg



After you get the connector in, reinstall the plug back in the fusbox, and get ready for solder time. Tin the wires on both the harness of the bike, and the new regulator. I removed the original plug due to the history of them causing problems, and went with a straight hard-wire:
Pic7.jpg



One big difference in these regulators is size. despite the bolt holes lining up, the honda regulator is noticably bigger. This may or may not be a problem on other bikes:
Pic8.jpg
 
Part 3

Part 3

On the GK, however, it was. the inner mount bolt would not line up, as the regulator would hit the frame.
Pic9.jpg



So, I merely used the mount hole to install the 'extra' ground wire with a new nut and bolt. this wire should go straight to the negative post on the battery. Remember, a good ground makes a happy regulator!:
Pic10.jpg



And this is the installed regulator:
Pic11.jpg



It all fits under the cover, with no interference problems:
Pic12.jpg
 
Part 4

Part 4

Now, no more "Houston, we have a Main b-bus Undervolt!"
Pic13.jpg



I hope this helps give a visual to those who wish to replace the stock regulator with a cheaper, beefier alternative.
 
roger 13

roger 13

thanks for the info, thinking I'll try that myself, good to see how it's done. I was eyeballing the regulator used with a Honda GX20 industrial engine, looks ideal, amy be cheap too.

Obviously you have seen Apollo 13 - great movie. I've always wondered, and maybe someone electrically knowledgeable can answer - what is an electrical "bus" or "buss"?
 
A generic description is a circuit that distributes electricity. such as a main board or strip of metal.
 
Well, maybe it's time to share my secret. "nearly new" r/r's from suzuki GSX-Rs sell for $15-40 on ebay. That's for R/R's off of 01-06 bikes. They're designed to handle the electrical demands of a fuel injected bike. They also use the exact same electrical hookups as our GS's so there's no hunting a switched positive lead.
 
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