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Hook up stator to RR No spark on 2 and 4

  • Thread starter Thread starter wishy
  • Start date Start date
W

wishy

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1981 GS650gl still has stock RR should I still route all three phases of stator ouput directly to the RR?

Is it as simply as hunting down the one making a loop to the front and moving directly to the RR instead?

Where do I start with checking no fire on 2 and 4? I already cleaned up the connections under the seat. Fixed a few dirty ones, and a couple of bad wires. The spark plug boots where all bad, assuming they are suppose to be 5k resistors in them. Number 1 had no guts in it and the rest of them are all closer to 10k. Without the caps on the end of the wires I can jump about a 1/4 in gap between the plug and the wire. Does that sound about right? Just on 1 and 3 of course.

Coil relay mod the same for 650 as any other? Aren't you actually powering up the ignitor and coils with this mod?

Chris
 
Yes.

Yes.

Check your spark plug wires.

Yes. Yes.



OK, some details. :-\\\
Yes, route all three wires direct.

Yes, it's as simple as finding the white/red and white green wires, disconnect the part that disappears into the main harness and reconect stator directly to R/R.

It is not common to lose one plug on each coil, it is more likely that both leads (or the coil) have failed and the wires are on the wrong plugs. In stock configuration, the left coil will be connected to plugs 1 and 4, the right coil will be connected to 2 and 3. Verify that before we try anything else.

Yes, depending on where you cut your wire for the coil relay mod, you will likely re-route power to the entire ignition system.

Before you bother with that relay mod, make sure all your connections in the fuse panel are CLEAN and tight. Use your voltmeter to verify that the voltage on the IGNITION fuse is real close to battery voltage (MAIN fuse) and that it agrees with the voltage at the coils (orange/white wire). If you see minimal voltage drop, the relay mod won't help much. For all the effort involved in doing that mod, you might be better served by finding a new R/R (the Polaris one is the current favorite, pardon the pun :oops:) and making sure you have FULL voltage while saving your stator.

.
 
Alright will check plug wire routing. It could be me just seeing it wrong. I get about 1 full volt of drop at the coils. I cleaned connectors and the kill switch and ignition switch contacts already.

I started to pull the air box so I could get at the RR and wiring behind battery more easily. Think I will just go ahead and get a new RR and do it while I am sorting out electrical. Hate to half to go back in when I should be done. By the way, the start button works just fine. Pull the clutch in.:redface-new: Having a starter is new to me.

Can't seem to access any of the links from Bikecliffs site. Keep getting the 404 message. Just wanted to get a wiring schematic.

Thanks Chris
 
wishy said:
Can't seem to access any of the links from Bikecliffs site. Keep getting the 404 message. Just wanted to get a wiring schematic.
Click to expand...
Gonna have to send a message to Cliff about that, but in the meantime, send me an e-mail (click on my name for info), I can send you a copy of your wiring diagram.

.
 
No need to pull air filter box to get at r/r and ignitor plate. Remove battery and you'll see two hex headed bolts that hold the plate to airbox/frame- remove them and you can swing r/r and ignitor plate up so you can remove these items.

Basscliff's site has "misplaced" the 650 wiring diagrams a few months ago. The 1980 gs850 diagram is real similar on most of the vitals

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/80GS850GT_wiring_color-new.png
 
Upon further review..... I pulled the plug wires up and laid them on the same sides as their respective coils. Left coil is working. Nice white/blue spark jumps across at least a 1/4 inch gap. Right side coil is not firing at all. Both coils measure exactly the same for resistance through the windings. I have continuity through the harness from the coil to the plug going to the ignitor on the exciter wire(black/yellow). I have to pull the battery and get at the wiring behind it to the IG/RR. Any suggestions after I check for bad wires/connections on what to look at? Trigger looks fine don't see anything really to go bad there. I don't think I have ever found a trigger bad on any of the bikes I have looked at. Hoping for bad wire/connection somewhere.

It looks like for the stator wire redirect I need to pull the white/green from going into the harness. Connect it to the white/red coming out of the harness into the plug leading to the RR. Correct? I see Steve already covered this above. I need to focus on one thing at a time i guess.

As far a voltage drop I have full battery power on the supply side of fuse block. I have almost exactly 1 volt of drop on the switched side of the fuse block. Is this considered normal or ok? I get pretty much the same reading at the coils if I remember right. I think the weak spark problem I was told about must be a combo of RS coil not firing and all the plug caps being way to high on the resistance through them.

Thanks for the feedback Steve. Wiring is not my favorite thing its nice to have an experienced person to sound things off of.

Chris
 
I am thinking the ignitor is bad. Test light just sort of flutters when on the trigger wire. When I put it on the left coil it flashes. I also noticed that the voltage at the O/W wire fluctuates depending on crank position. That normal? Or is that a sign of bad ignitor also.

Chris
 
Yep, based on your findings (different results from one side to the other), I would concur with the 'bad ignitor' diagnosis.

When you go shopping for an ignitor, watch that you don't get one from late '82 or '83, as they have the ignition advance built in. Yours still has a mechanical advance mechanism on the crank.

.
 
Well unless I find one cheap enough I will just get a Dyna system for it. It's a winter project so no hurry. Gonna have to find fuel tank as well. That or try and make the old one work. Plenty of polish and clean to do also.


Chris
 
Someone needs to tell the eBay sellers how much a dyna s costs. I get to looking once in awhile for a ignitor and they always want some outrageous price. Must be basing it off of new from Suzuki cost.

I did the stator rewire today. Got the headlight working. Just for fun I hooked the not firing RS coil to the LS trigger and it worked great. Looks like I will just get a Dyna since used ignitors are gold plated. ��
 
Guess who got a Dyna for Christmas! �� Maybe I will have this thing going for summer. Any suggestions for shocks that don't cost a fortune?
 
Dyna is installed. Wire it up tomorrow morning. Get that all back together and timed, then I can get after the carbs. I have them separated just need to get a fresh can of dip.

Still not sure what to do about a fuel tank. Need to better determine how bad mine is.

Chris
 
Stumbled on the Hagons while poking around. Seems about the best bang for buck. Now I know where to get them. Thanks
 
All wired up and static timed. Low and behold all 4 plugs fire now! Seems Suzuki doesn't bother to put the full advance or fire mark on the 2/3 side of the advance mechanism. Had to bust out my calipers and do a little measuring.

Chris
 
Carbs clean and in she is running!!!!!! Not road worthy but running!! Fuel tank issues to resolve.
 
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