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Hoping it does not need clutch springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter cutlass79500
  • Start date Start date
C

cutlass79500

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85 gs 450l someone put 3 inch tall wide superbike bars on it they are like 32.5 inches wide. Did not change the cable. no clutch slippage shifts fine thru all the gears. When i go to take off start letting the clutch out it sticks jumps a little sticks again cable moves freely when not attached to pivot arm. Also bike has sat for 4 years outside part of the time. I lubed the cable really good i did not clean the old grease out of the pivot.But i did clean all the excess grease out of the cover and off the cable. First thing i think i am gonna do is re route the cable get any tight bends out of it. Clutch is kinda hard. At the same time will grease the pivot. If i have to replace the cable i guess i should replace it with an earlier e model i am guessing. The worst cable with bends is the choke but its working. Sound like a food place to start?
 
The first thing you should do is clean the worm gear. Remove the sprocket cover. The cable attaches to a worm gear, which is held on by two screws. Remove it, unwind it, clean it, regrease it, reinstall it, and retest. These things get all gunked up over the years and yours has probably never been cleaned unless you did it.
 
I am going to do that this week and see what i can do about the cable. When its cool it feels fine when it gets hot is when i have the problems.
 
If the cable is too long with the new handlebars, you need to route it loosely-big curves, no bending through the speedo and frame-it'll be ugly,maybe with a floppy loop in the breeze which is only good to test your comfort with the handlebars.

Then, get a shorter cable.

As to "hot and cold", Do you mean the Engine?, and clutch not working when hot?
 
If the cable is too long with the new handlebars, you need to route it loosely-big curves, no bending through the speedo and frame-it'll be ugly,maybe with a floppy loop in the breeze which is only good to test your comfort with the handlebars.

Then, get a shorter cable.

As to "hot and cold", Do you mean the Engine?, and clutch not working when hot?
Clutch works fine no slippage. When the bike gets hot when you start releasing the clutch its like the cable is sticking. Let it out a little bit it sticks for a sec then snaps out a little.If you let it out fast no problem just starting off in 1st. When the cable is not connected to the lever or worm gear not binding at all lubed it up good before i put the cover back on. I am gonna change the bars. The former owner changed them they have a 3 inch rise and 32 inches wide all my other bikes are 28.
 
The first thing you should do is clean the worm gear. Remove the sprocket cover. The cable attaches to a worm gear, which is held on by two screws. Remove it, unwind it, clean it, regrease it, reinstall it, and retest. These things get all gunked up over the years and yours has probably never been cleaned unless you did it.
And while you have the cover off, make sure the pushrod is CLEAN.

Several years ago, when my son had a 450, we had a problem with the front sprocket getting loose. There were a few bits of aluminum shavings that lodged around the pushrod, binding it up a bit. Made it REAL interesting trying to take off into traffic. He would release the lever (completely) and wait for the pushrod to work its way loose enough for the clutch to engage. There was NO predictability to it. Sometimes it would engage when the lever was let out, other times it would wair 5 seconds or so.

Make sure that pushrod is CLEAN.:-\\\

.
 
think it may be fixed

think it may be fixed

Everything is coming together now. The clutch was way out of adjustment they used the cable instead of the screw nut adjuster on the cover. The cable was all the way pulled up. where the cable hooked up was almost straight up and down cleaned and re greased everything clutch is easier now.
I found a set up carbs on ebay was not really worth taking the cutter and cutting a new slot in the air mixture screw$29.00. Put all new orings in them needle and seat gaskets. Was not happy about setting the floats dry but that is the way the book said. ran ok a little flat spot soon as you touched the gas very cold natured this was on a test tank 2 ft higher then the carbs. Put the tank on ran really bad put it on prime a little better. To make a long story short floats are to low and has a hard time sucking fuel thru idle circuit. Did notice that the floats in the old carbs were much higher. Gonna put my old floats in the new carbs make sure it does not over flow and try that i am about positive that will fix it. I hate setting floats dry it rarely works right even with a float guage.
 
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