Hot fuse box

[Guest]

Am getting hot fuse box while ignition key is on (79'GS1000E)and bike not running. I have replaced with new fuse box with the 4 fuses and am it's still getting hot to the point that it will blow the main fuse if I leave it on long enough. Am troubleshooting trying to find bad connection. Also I'm in the process of replacing R/R with upgrade. Can someone tell me why there is 2 fuse boxes on this model. One with the 4 fuses and one other with just one fuse. I believe the one fuse box is called the terminal relay.

1)What does this(output terminal) do/protect as is does not have a outlet wire?

2)Can someone tell me what would be the first things to check for cause of hot fuse box? Possible corrosion or bad ground somewhere?

 

[pdqford]

If you have the ignition key in the “on” position, AND, if the points are closed, that will ground the coil circuit and it will probably be pulling 4 or 5 amps through the ignition fuse. I am not sure how hot “hot” is, but I imagine it will get warm.

 

[Guest]

To clarify hot, I mean it will burn your skin if you touch it. It partially melted the original plastic fuse box.

 

[Rijko]

Am getting hot fuse box while ignition key is on (79'GS1000E)and bike not running. I have replaced with new fuse box with the 4 fuses and am it's still getting hot to the point that it will blow the main fuse if I leave it on long enough. Am troubleshooting trying to find bad connection. Also I'm in the process of replacing R/R with upgrade. Can someone tell me why there is 2 fuse boxes on this model. One with the 4 fuses and one other with just one fuse. I believe the one fuse box is called the terminal relay.

1)What does this(output terminal) do/protect as is does not have a outlet wire?

2)Can someone tell me what would be the first things to check for cause of hot fuse box? Possible corrosion or bad ground somewhere?

1. this is an "accessory" terminal, is not used normally.

2. Hook up an amp meter to the main power wire of the fuse box.
Disconnect the fuses one by one and hopefully you will find a circuit that draws power.
If so you have narrowed down the search area and can go look for the cause.

 

[Rijko]

If you have the ignition key in the ?on? position, AND, if the points are closed, that will ground the coil circuit and it will probably be pulling 4 or 5 amps through the ignition fuse. I am not sure how hot ?hot? is, but I imagine it will get warm.

AND if the kill switch is in the run position.
I hope the test is performed with the killswitch set to off ....

 

[Gorminrider]

2)Can someone tell me what would be the first things to check for cause of hot fuse box? Possible corrosion or bad ground somewhere?

Look for the problem VERY NEAR or AT the fusebox.
Heat is created by a too much electricity trying to get through a narrow place all-at-once. Like a panic in a narrow corridor, electrons pushing,shoving, getting hot and sweaty. The hottest heat will be at that "narrowing"...

examples: A connector lug can often partially cut the copper wire strands....that means all the electricity is trying to get through a few strands.

A fuse that is not fully pushed in will not have a full contact surface. It will be hot where the electricity is trying to cram through the little patch that is touching.

 

[earlfor]

Look for the problem VERY NEAR or AT the fusebox.

Yep, the fault and hottest spot will be at the point of contact of whatever is causing the problem.

 

[Guest]

1) As far as the accessory terminal not normally being used. Does that mean that I can remove it?

2) Removing the fuses one by one and checking if it clears up will be done today.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[earlfor]

1) As far as the accessory terminal not normally being used. Does that mean that I can remove it?

2) Removing the fuses one by one and checking if it clears up will be done today.

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, but I would not. You might want to add a phone charger or some other accessory some time.

 

[Guest]

Just verified that the main fuse is still getting extremely hot after about a minute with the key on. As suggested I started pulling fuses. The first one I pulled was the 10A HD. LAMPS. The main fuse no longer gets hot. So it seems that we have narrowed the cause, now for the solution.

1)Pull headlight and check/clean all connections to and from?
2) If necessary run a new switched 12V accessory wire from fuse box to headlamp?

 

[earlfor]

Just verified that the main fuse is still getting extremely hot after about a minute with the key on. As suggested I started pulling fuses. The first one I pulled was the 10A HD. LAMPS. The main fuse no longer gets hot. So it seems that we have narrowed the cause, now for the solution.

1)Pull headlight and check/clean all connections to and from?
2) If necessary run a new switched 12V accessory wire from fuse box to headlamp?

I am guessing that HD stands for High Intensity Discharge lights. (well known for flagrant high amp consumption.)
Your lighting upgrade?

Anyway, their power consumption exceeds the capacity of the fuse block and associated wiring. I would install a direct from battery lighting wire with a inline fuse on the wire to power the HD lighting. We already know it is drawing enough amperage to roast a 10 amp circuit, so It's going to require something higher rated than that.
What is the wattage of the HD's?

Depending on what the consumption rate is, there may not be enough charging system capacity to keep the battery charged because of the HD current draw.

 

[Guest]

I am guessing that HD stands for High Intensity Discharge lights. (well known for flagrant high amp consumption.)
Your lighting upgrade?

Anyway, their power consumption exceeds the capacity of the fuse block and associated wiring. I would install a direct from battery lighting wire with a inline fuse on the wire to power the HD lighting. We already know it is drawing enough amperage to roast a 10 amp circuit, so It's going to require something higher rated than that.
What is the wattage of the HD's?

Depending on what the consumption rate is, there may not be enough charging system capacity to keep the battery charged because of the HD current draw.

HD.LAMPS is what is listed on the fuse box cover.

The workshop manual states that this fuse protects the headlamp, tail lamp, rear number plate lamp, instrument lamps, and high beam indicator lamp.

I replaced the headlamp bulb a long time ago with the standard H4 60/55W halogen after-market bulb. All lights in good working condition.

 

[Killer2600]

I am guessing that HD stands for High Intensity Discharge lights. (well known for flagrant high amp consumption.)

It's not that sinister, HD.LAMP stands for Headlamps.

 

[Killer2600]

HD.LAMPS is what is listed on the fuse box cover.

The workshop manual states that this fuse protects the headlamp, tail lamp, rear number plate lamp, instrument lamps, and high beam indicator lamp.

Is this an aftermarket fusebox and did you wire it according to the instructions or did you wire it to match the OEM wiring/configuration. If this fusebox is wired and configured different than the OEM fusebox you may have too many things on the fuse and be pulling too much current.

 

[Guest]

Is this an aftermarket fusebox and did you wire it according to the instructions or did you wire it to match the OEM wiring/configuration. If this fusebox is wired and configured different than the OEM fusebox you may have too many things on the fuse and be pulling too much current.

OEM fusebox. Wired exactly like original

 

[Killer2600]

Anything aftermarket added to the bike? Additional electrical loads?

Also does this occur with the bike running? The headlights with ignition coil(s) always on pulls quite a bit of current.

 

[Guest]

Anything aftermarket added to the bike? Additional electrical loads?

Also does this occur with the bike running? The headlights with ignition coil(s) always on pulls quite a bit of current.

Yes when it was running it did the same.

Electrical upgrades:

1) Dyna 2000 ignition

2) Dyna coils

3) Fiamm twin horns

4) Mini turn signals

Stock regulator & rectifer pulled and in process of R/R upgrade to SHINDENGEN: SH775AA

 

[earlfor]

It's not that sinister, HD.LAMP stands for Headlamps.

Sorry, was momentarily living in the modern world. lol

 

[earlfor]

HD.LAMPS is what is listed on the fuse box cover.

The workshop manual states that this fuse protects the headlamp, tail lamp, rear number plate lamp, instrument lamps, and high beam indicator lamp.

I replaced the headlamp bulb a long time ago with the standard H4 60/55W halogen after-market bulb. All lights in good working condition.

OK, thus far you know it is the 10 amp lighting circuit. So....... I would open the headlight shell and remove the bulb. Then turn on the ignition and see if the fuse box gets hot. If it does, you know the problem is in the tail light
or rear number plate lamp. The instrument lights and indicator lamps are very small and draw almost nothing. If the fuse box doesn't get hot, the fault is in the head light. To double check that, you could remove the tail light bulbs, reinstall the headlight bulb, turn ignition on and check fuse box again

 

[Rijko]

Electrical upgrades: 1) Dyna 2000 ignition

now that triggers a memory.
My buddy has a very nice GS1000 with a Dyna 2000.
He had been to 3 shops before i first met him because the bike would sometimes run right,
sometimes run on 3&4, but also sometimes run on 1&3, which led most guys looking at the bike to believe that had to be carbs.

I checked his carbs and they were like new, floats at the right height etc.
Fortunately i had a Dyna S lying around for a project i had not started yet.
Eyeballed the timing and we could tell directly the issue was found.
Sent the ignition off to Dynatek who checked it and found it to be bad.
They made him a nice offer on a replacement unit which he happily accepted.
The bike has had no problems since.

Do you still have the original ignition, or have access to one just to check if that's the issue ?

Maybe the Dyna 2000 is spliced into the headlamp wiring causing several symptoms/problems at the same time.
Disconnecting the Dyna 2000 might solve the heat issue on the fusebox, at least it's a quick and simple thing to check.

edit : Earl's suggestion would be my first try btw.