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How am I supposed to get my shims out?!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter nisom512
  • Start date Start date
N

nisom512

Guest
So I am doing a valve adjustment on my 81 850 I HAVE DONE THEM BEFORE. I am using the ziptie method and I cant get the valve to be low enough to get the shim out. The things are really tight I am trying to find tappets to fit in between. The side of the lobes are even being worn(very little). so I am assuming there is no clearance at all. So I try the ziptie method(worked on my 550) and I cant get the valve to be low enough to get the shim out I even put one on top of the other(so two zipties folded in half on top of eachother, so in a sense the thikness of 4 zipties if you get that). I dont have the tool that your supposed to use for this I am looking for one but dont know what it's called. a valve presser? if one of thos doesnt work am i going to have to take my cams off?

Thank you
Jake
 
How's it spoused to work exactly? The drawing I've seen in the factory service manual looks like it shows a bar with a "step" in it that presses down on the edge of the shim bucket.
 
how does that thing work. you put it in the plug whole and turn it downwards?
 
It hooks around the cam shaft and wedges the bucket down. It can be hard to keep it from slipping off the bucket, but it will work. Even so, it's considerably less hassle. Z1 has the most reasonable cost on these.

The zip tie method should give you enough room. I've used it on both '80 and '82 850's now. In fact, it can give you more room than the special tool, if your zip ties are fat enough. Fold 'em if they're not. Maybe try to catch the head end of the tie under the valve, but don't let it get pinched off.

You didn't mention it, but just in case: you'll need tweezers or some other skinny thing to get them out with either method.
 
Hi,

See the write-up on my website. There's lots of pictures and everything.

As you're using the "tappet tool", you must apply pressure toward the cam itself as you are pressing the bucket down and sliding the curved part of the tool around the cam. Keep a firm grip, slow and steady as you move the tool down. You don't want the tool to slip because the bucket will snap up and spritz you with oil. Ask me how I know.

It takes a little practice and finesse, but I use the tappet tool all the time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Can someone explain the Zip Tie method??

Nevermind I found it on BassCliff's website. Not sure if it'll work on the 4 valve bikes.
 
Last edited:
awesome thanks for the picture that clarifies it a big time.
 
You take the spark plugs out, fold a large zip tie in half and turn the engine till you see the valve open up through the spark plug hole, then hold the folded zip tie above the top of the valve where it seats into the head. Keep turning the engine till the cam lobe no longer presses on the shim and there you go.

(very simplified version)
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

See the write-up on my website. There's lots of pictures and everything.

As you're using the "tappet tool", you must apply pressure toward the cam itself as you are pressing the bucket down and sliding the curved part of the tool around the cam. Keep a firm grip, slow and steady as you move the tool down. You don't want the tool to slip because the bucket will snap up and spritz you with oil. Ask me how I know.

It takes a little practice and finesse, but I use the tappet tool all the time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

I used your walk threw for my 550.


I know I am doing the Zip tie right I have two folded and on top of eachother. I just feel like the clearances are way to small. I feel like there is no clearance at all. the sides of the lobe the part thats not supposed to touch the shim is worn.
 
focus frenzy said:
... this little critter is worth its weight in gold when it comes to messing with shims.

http://motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0017/
Click to expand...
Gold is evidently not worth much around my house. I still have the tool, but get too frustrated trying to use it. I use the zip-ties every time, now.



jeepinbanditrider said:
Can someone explain the Zip Tie method??

Nevermind I found it on BassCliff's website. Not sure if it'll work on the 4 valve bikes.
Click to expand...
Not that is won't work on the 4-valve bikes, you just don't need it on the 4-valve bikes. :o

You have no shims, so there is no need to try to remove them. Just loosen your silly little locknut and twist your adjuster screw.

I'll go back to my zip-ties now, to remove my shims. :D

.
 
Nope it's a 79 16 valve bike with shims. I had a Suzuki Bandit I know how screw-and-locknut adjustment works it was a lot easier for sure. Inspection intervals were a lot closer though. I found they setteled in though and didn't require any adjustment after the 2nd valve check.
 
So does any one have ideas on why the side of the lode is getting rubbed?

Jake
 
The side of the lobe is worn? Like someone chiseled the corner off? That's what happens when you turn the engine over without a shim in the bucket. You might find a nick in the bucket's lip too.

Or do you mean the round part of the cam is showing wear?

Not enough room to get the shims out... Are you sure the cams are in the correct orientation? I'm sort of guessing here, I'm not sure if what I'm visualizing is what you're describing. Anyhow, something is wrong, since this shouldn't be difficult. It shouldn't be wide open either though. Even with tweezers, you'll need to reach in diagonally, about 45? to the side.
 
I thought about turning my bike upside down and shaking the shims out but a magnet and tweezers does a good job too. hope that helps..
 
Steve said:
A 16-valve GS with shims? :-k

This I just have to see. Please enclose pictures.

.
Click to expand...

Headin down to take pics now I just have the valve cover sitting on top. Waiting on my shim tool and an electronic ignition and we'll be set:D
 
welp.............open mouth insert both feet LOL. It's 8-valve guess the Marine Corps didn't teach me to count properly :D
 
barsnake said:
I thought about turning my bike upside down and shaking the shims out but a magnet and tweezers does a good job too. hope that helps..
Click to expand...

hahaha

Dogma said:
The side of the lobe is worn? Like someone chiseled the corner off? That's what happens when you turn the engine over without a shim in the bucket. You might find a nick in the bucket's lip too.

Or do you mean the round part of the cam is showing wear?

Not enough room to get the shims out... Are you sure the cams are in the correct orientation? I'm sort of guessing here, I'm not sure if what I'm visualizing is what you're describing. Anyhow, something is wrong, since this shouldn't be difficult. It shouldn't be wide open either though. Even with tweezers, you'll need to reach in diagonally, about 45? to the side.
Click to expand...

well the part where the lobe pushes the valve all the way open should be the only part that touches the shim. correct?

Well once I have the Ziptie in the correct spot (between the valve and the valve head) I turn the engine over until the lob is not pushing the valve down and on the middle of the part that is on top(when you look at the engine) or the "side of the lobe" it shows what I call wear there are no dings or nics in the lob at all. it just looks like light rubbing. like when you rub fine steel whool on stainless steel. I will get pics soon I am kicking my self for not last night cause I am not going home till saturday.

Thank you
Jake
 
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