• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

How am I supposed to get my shims out?!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter nisom512
  • Start date Start date
jeepinbanditrider said:
... guess the Marine Corps didn't teach me to count properly :D
Click to expand...
You must have been the youngest Marine, ever. :eek:

Most kids can count by the time they get to Kindergarten, which is at least a dozen (that's 12) years before they are eligible to enlist in the Marine Corp.

Here, salute this flag.
bsflag.gif


:D
 
Steve said:
You must have been the youngest Marine, ever. :eek:

Most kids can count by the time they get to Kindergarten, which is at least a dozen (that's 12) years before they are eligible to enlist in the Marine Corp.

Here, salute this flag.
bsflag.gif


:D
Click to expand...

Naw I'm 23 almost 24 I just have massive brain farts sometimes :D
 
Steve said:
You must have been the youngest Marine, ever. :eek:

Most kids can count by the time they get to Kindergarten, which is at least a dozen (that's 12) years before they are eligible to enlist in the Marine Corp.

Here, salute this flag.
bsflag.gif


:D
Click to expand...

Man you are being such a smart arss today.
 
Barsnake

Barsnake

barsnake said:
I thought about turning my bike upside down and shaking the shims out but a magnet and tweezers does a good job too. hope that helps..
Click to expand...

Hey Barsnake;

Watch using a magnet. If you shims get slightly magnetized, they will attract any metalic debris :eek:!

Rick
 
No, just trying to avoid a future post that reads:

Hey, I just opened my valve cover and see that my cam lobes are all scored.
I used a magnet last time to pull my shims, but I don't think that's the problem."

:-\\\

.
 
A rear shock adjuster works just as well as the proper tool for removing shims, in the same way.
 
Steve said:
No, just trying to avoid a future post that reads:

Hey, I just opened my valve cover and see that my cam lobes are all scored.
I used a magnet last time to pull my shims, but I don't think that's the problem."

:-\\\

.
Click to expand...

UMMMM...Why?
 
nisom512 said:
hahaha



well the part where the lobe pushes the valve all the way open should be the only part that touches the shim. correct?

Well once I have the Ziptie in the correct spot (between the valve and the valve head) I turn the engine over until the lob is not pushing the valve down and on the middle of the part that is on top(when you look at the engine) or the "side of the lobe" it shows what I call wear there are no dings or nics in the lob at all. it just looks like light rubbing. like when you rub fine steel whool on stainless steel. I will get pics soon I am kicking my self for not last night cause I am not going home till saturday.

Thank you
Jake
Click to expand...


I just want to make sure I'm reading this right... The intake and exhaust lobes are pointing directly away from each other, right?

The only reason I can think of that this would show wear is if someone ran the engine for a while with no clearance at all. Hopefully not long enough to damage valves, seats, etc. Apart from that, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have proper clearance, it won't matter if that part of the cam has a tattoo of your mother.
 
Dogma said:
I just want to make sure I'm reading this right... The intake and exhaust lobes are pointing directly away from each other, right?

The only reason I can think of that this would show wear is if someone ran the engine for a while with no clearance at all. Hopefully not long enough to damage valves, seats, etc. Apart from that, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have proper clearance, it won't matter if that part of the cam has a tattoo of your mother.
Click to expand...

Yeah I know they dont touch when the clearances are right. but yeah the guy who ran it with no clearances was .........me:(
 
That's ok Jake.

I've kind of wanted to do a top end anyway.

Now we can do yours ;).

Rick
 
Mine showed wear on the lobes too, and were too tight to get any of the feelers in between as well. I figure it's par for the course... the cam lobe physically touches the shim every time it rotates, and maybe all the way around if the shims are too big/valve has worn down. It should only be a problem if the faces are scored or scratched, no?
 
atchbo said:
Mine showed wear on the lobes too, and were too tight to get any of the feelers in between as well. I figure it's par for the course... the cam lobe physically touches the shim every time it rotates, and maybe all the way around if the shims are too big/valve has worn down. It should only be a problem if the faces are scored or scratched, no?
Click to expand...

no scores or scratches.

Jake
 
feel sorry for me...

feel sorry for me...

I spent the afternoon pulling shims out of a GS425 and a GS550.
I'm attempting to use the Suzuki tool for the first time and it's a bear! The 550 engine is out of frame (a future build) and it goes alot easier that way. On some I got the shim out and the tool stayed put, 180* from where it started. I got the numbers off the back, oiled it and returned it to it's proper tappet.
Others not so easy. The under side of the tool is getting kinda scored. It pops out alot!

point is:
Somebody should invent a new and better shim removal tool. My idea was a lever ( a cast lever, bent on one end, slot in middle, longish handle) using the existing cover bolts ( picture a threaded shaft with a ball on top) as a leverage point.
regards and good luck
Z
 
So I got my shims out last night and used Steves handy dandy excel sheet. I ended up having to put the head of the ziptie between the valve head and valve.

But now I have aquestion.

When I have the lobes parallel to the engine(where the lobes are pointing away from each other) is the only time I can measure a clearance. other wise if I have the lobe say pointing strait up it has almost no clearance but once I turn the engine so the lobes are pointing away from eachother it has like a .08mm clearnace. What the crap? should I be confused?

Thank you
Jake
 
i believe you

i believe you

gotta measure your clearance when the cam lobe is perpendicular (straight up) to the heads. This means the shim isn't always directly under the lobe but off to the side somewhat. Find a manual and confirm this.

also... if the shims are so tight that you can't get a feeler in there you gotta get a smaller shim, put that one in, and measure from that one.
I'm going though that now.

I ordered a single 2.30 from Z1 and replaced the existing 2.65's ,one at a time, and took my measurements. Now I know what I need for new shims.

Hope this helped...

regards;
Z
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top