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How do I get the airbox off my GS650GL?

  • Thread starter Thread starter PhamNuwen
  • Start date Start date
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PhamNuwen

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Hi all

I'm trying to remove the carbs from my 82 GS 650GL, preferably without pulling the engine-side boots off the engine. I've loosened the clamps holding in the carburetors to where it can move freely on both sides, but there's just not enough clearance to get it out. If I pull it back enough to clear the front intakes, it's pressed back into the air box boots, and vice versa.

I think if I removed the engine-side boots, I could just pop that carb right off there, but that will turn the project from an afternoon's work to a more expensive hassle of replacing o-rings and boots and what-not, just so I can pull off the carbs and put in a fuel line. Ugh.

Can the airbox come off with the carbs still on? I really only need about another 1/8" or so to get the carburetor to slide out the side, but that air intake box is just completely locked in by the frame above, to the sides, and below, it seems. Is there a trick I'm missing?
 
I have an 82 GS550L, I feel your pain. You seem to be in the same situation I was. Assuming yours is similiar to mine, the airbox probably won't come out with the carbs in. The best way I found was to unscrew the air filter box, which allows you to move the airbox/filter box assy back a little further. You should only have to unscrew the bolts holding the filter box on, you shouldn't have to worry about all the electronics bolted on the side and you can leave the airbox attached to it. It will still be a tight fit, but you should have an easier time removing the carbs that way.
 
Ive yet to figure it out. Course Im not at the stage to mess with mine yet. I can say the 750 was a pain. Hope theres an easy answer cause mines next.
 
No way that I know of, without taking things ALL apart. :confused:

Been there and done that. I had to remove the battery box and even after that, it was a pain. I'm convinced that the 650L has the tightest fitment of ANY GS. ;)
 
Hi,

Sorry, I don't have any direct experience but I have read that it may be easier, or at least possible, to remove the carbs by loosening the airbox and pushing it back as far as it will go. Then loosen the rear fender and allow the airbox to move back another inch or so farther. The extra clearance can make all the difference. Good luck.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Hi guys,
I can't speak for the 650 but the GS1000 slide carb GS has a 2 part airbox,the back box with the air filter in it and the front box that connects with the carbs.I found on the 1000 the best(after owning GS550's and 1000's for 18 years I've tried most ways) way to remove the carbs was to undo the clamps at the engine and airbox until they went right back(touching the engine on the front and right over the groove on the airbox side),undo the bolt/screw holding the air filter box and remove the whole thing.Then undo and remove the 2 10mm headed bolts holding the front section, and then pull the carbs back into the airbox until they begin to clear the engine side rubbers-you need to use quite a bit of pressure, then push them down hard and to the RIGHT (throttle side) of the bike.This means you can easily disconnect the throttle cable(s).mabye I can do some sketches of what I mean and post them as I'm never sure if I explain things clearly or not!.Hope this helps and that I'm not stating the obvious and causing you guys to look at the screen and go"yeah duh, like I did'nt know that".Johnny
 
OOPS, forgot to mention you have to take off both frame covers(side panels)-as well!!. sorry.Johnny
 
When I had to take mine off (a 650G) after I had it all prepped to take off with the 1-4 airbox all the way back and everything disconnected that I could disconnect it was all just a matter of wiggling and twisting to get them free. Getting them back on was what gave me the most trouble. Ill try to make a video of my procedure when I get around to putting them back on this time(procrastinating until I have enough money to have it running properly).
 
It's just a matter of wiggling and fighting the carb rack on!

Like the others said, you'll want to loosen the screw that holds the rear
airbox to the frame. That will give you an extra inch or less?

But there's also another trick I use.

There's an oval shaped piece that connects between the Airbox
and the Rear airbox(the one that contains the air filter).
On that oval piece, there's actually a tightening-strap, and if you use a really long screwdriver(Phillips head I think), you can loosen the metal strap alittle.

Then you can actually push that front airbox Back even more, giving you more clearance.


But your real enemy is those damn carb boots, they are usually too hard.

However, even with stiff boots, you CAN get the carbrack back on.
I put the front side of the carbs in first, then hook up the throttle cable.
Then I slowly slide the rear carbs down into the boots, and kinda worm around each boot with a Thin long screw driver....carefully!


NOTE!!!
Make sure you attach the throttle cable before completey installing the carbs!

I learned this the hard way! Haha
 
1_v8_merc has it, my 650L was a pita the first time I removed the carbs, getting them back on was even more of a hassle. The air actually travels from the airbox to another piece that attaches to the carbs, in between in an oval shaped fitting that can be loosened to give you the room yuo need to take the carbs out.
When going back in, be gentler then I was (after half an hour of fighting it) and dont crush the metal tightening straps (the proper name escapes me).

Now that ive taken the carbs out 3-4 times, It's only 80% the pita it was :)
 
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