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How do I replace oil filter studs on GS1100?

  • Thread starter Thread starter littleroot
  • Start date Start date
L

littleroot

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I've got a stripped nut on one of the oil filter studs. I was placing an order for gaskets and notice these were only about a buck so I added three. Now I have no idea how to replace them! Any ideas?

Thanks!
-Bob
 
Turn them out of the engine with vice grips. When you install the new ones double nut them and install with a long extension and a socket. Use red locktite on the new ones. The cover doesnt need to be wrneched on to seal the gasket..jjust snug it nicely. You can get the new studs from just about any auto parts store. take an old one in and match them up.
 
Depending on how stripped they are you can double nut them and turn them out. They are 6mm AFAIK, so a couple of 6mm open end nuts should do it. You might need to weld a nut to it if the threads are too buggered.
 
You can also weld the nut onto the stud if you have a shop welder and use a wrench to turn the studs out of the engine block.
 
Turn them out of the engine with vice grips. When you install the new ones double nut them and install with a long extension and a socket. Use red locktite on the new ones. The cover doesnt need to be wrneched on to seal the gasket..jjust snug it nicely. You can get the new studs from just about any auto parts store. take an old one in and match them up.

Hello Chuck,

Dumb question: Do I remove the studs by turning counter-clockwise?

Thanks for your help!
-Bob
 
Last edited:
Try both ways., but its been a while since ive done them.. My nephews 82 1100 had the same problem. They should screw out relatively easy, so once your going the right way youll know.
 
Try both ways., but its been a while since ive done them.. My nephews 82 1100 had the same problem. They should screw out relatively easy, so once your going the right way youll know.

Yikes. I was already so paranoid I was going to break them off - now I'm petrified. Hoping someone here can confirm....
 
You wont snap anything off..it will turn long before you build up enough twist to snap it..I would try lefty loosy... righty tighty first..
 
They have to be right-handed threads, otherwise tightening the nut could cause a left-handed thread to start to unscrew. Counter-clockwise to remove.
 
An engineers job isnt to design things...its to figure out how to design it that will be the most difficult and generate the most swear words while working on the machine...seems they are good at their jobs!!! LOL
 
An engineers job isnt to design things...its to figure out how to design it that will be the most difficult and generate the most swear words while working on the machine...seems they are good at their jobs!!! LOL
I love it. Not only are we social outcasts, but now I am an outcast in the forum I call home. sigh. I guess it is the price we pay for saving civilians so much work and designing things that improve their lives. BTW, it is the bean counters who make the stupid decisions that make us look bad. I have sat in meetings where an hour was spent trying to figure out how to save 2 cents per part. Really.
 
I love it. Not only are we social outcasts, but now I am an outcast in the forum I call home. sigh. I guess it is the price we pay for saving civilians so much work and designing things that improve their lives. BTW, it is the bean counters who make the stupid decisions that make us look bad. I have sat in meetings where an hour was spent trying to figure out how to save 2 cents per part. Really.
Do the bean counters require parts that must be removed at some point in time (usually right after the warranty expires) to be installed first, underneath 15 hours worth of work to access them? (Looked good on paper....) j/k with ya, dude, don't take it personally....:D
 
Take a Valium...It was in jest...you know the engineers always take the hits!!!! Man people here just dont have any sense of humor anymore.
 
I just had one of these studs break on me.

I had to drill the screw out, and the remaining threads STILL refused to budge!:mad:
(I literally tried a combo of everything)

Now I have to re-thread the stud holes in the block, and I'm just going with standard bolts, no studs.
(I can't stand that 6mm design, it's just asking for trouble.)
 
How did it break?


I just had one of these studs break on me.

I had to drill the screw out, and the remaining threads STILL refused to budge!:mad:

Now I have to re-thread the stud holes in the block, and I'm just going with standard bolts, no studs.
(I can't stand that 6mm design, it's just asking for trouble.)
 
Take a Valium...It was in jest...you know the engineers always take the hits!!!! Man people here just dont have any sense of humor anymore.
I know it was, so was mine. And yes, Dan, if it is 1 cent cheaper to put that part there, we are forced to. And it is also the bean counters who force us to use what we consider inferior parts because we can save 3.5 cents a box. The real problem is that they answer to the stockholders who demand the highest profit instead of the highest quality. But we live with it and life goes on.
 
Good thing is that theres plenty of cast in that area. You can go to a standard 1/4-20 and drill the cover holes a bit larger...
 
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