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How do you switch away from pods without going broke?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdion81
  • Start date Start date
J

jdion81

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My GS850GL came with pods. Cheap ones... Since I am rebuilding I am rebuilding it with what it had and once running will make changes. Like I mentioned the pods are cheap ones and probably beyond use. How can I get the bike running and tuned without buying a 150$ set especially when my hope is to move it back to an original airbox? I know I should get the carbs synched with what I have then once it is good, make the change which would include new jets. I don't want to introduce variables during the rebuild.
 
You should be able to pick up used original airbox and all the bits you need to get it back to standard from ebay. I bet it will work out cheaper than a set of k and N pods. All the cafe racers will be taking their air boxes off!! So should be some available.
 
If the rubbers here are decent, this seems like a good economical part for your plans..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM1980-83...926150?hash=item284dcc4b86:g:RTUAAOSwjIVaXnpx

That listing is ended, but I have a problem with the description. It was for "1980-83 GS850G/GL".

The '80/'81 boxes are different than the '82/'83 boxes and are not necessarily interchangable.

Fortunately, it showed the chrome covers on the sides, which identifies it as the newer box.

I hope jdion is the one that got it. :-k

.
 
I did buy it. I was wondering the same thing, but the chrome covers looked to be the right shape for the 82.
 
Nice find. Don't forget to add the weather strip around the outside edges, under the end caps. Just cut it with scissors and stick it all around the inside of the end caps so it squishes against the airbox.

Even if the rubbers are shot, they're not too expensive for new ones.
 
You may still want to get new boots. Fortunately, they are MUCH cheaper than the boots from the carbs to the head.

.
 
Yeah, I probably need those too. Mine are a little flexible. It takes some squeezing to get them to flex.

By the way, Tom, Thank you for the link!
 
Also after all the bolt on work, you'll need to sync the carbs yourself. Because you'll never find a competent wrench jockey.
 
I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't have to change anything in the carbs. I believe they still have stock jets installed. I know the pilot jets are definitely #40, I am going to check the main jets when I go to lunch today. I love it.

This is testament to not trusting everything to a shop... I bought the bike from the local mom pop shop that I used to trust all my bike work to. I was told that the valves were adjusted and carbs gone through when I bought the bike. I didn't know much then and didn't think too much of the pod filters installed. I did ask about the foam sleeves they had over them. Was told it was that without them the engine would get too much air. OK. I didn't know any better. Thinking back I should have stopped the sale. There was rtv on the carb boots and the pods were a give away to the type of maintenance done on this bike. It looked pretty good and ran pretty good.

I did have this issue where after about 45 minutes on the highway it would seem to suddenly and completely loose power. It would idle, but not be able to pull itself down the road. I would have to sit on the shoulder of the highway for 15 minutes for it to cool then I could get on down the road.

Now I know.
 
I had a similar issue that turned out to be an improper fuel line that would collapse and starve fuel. Stock main jets would cause a lean condition that would overheat the motor severely in stop and go traffic situations, cause spitting through the carburetors, detonation and a loss of power at highway speeds that you could temporarily cure by rolling off the throttle and back on. I hope the issue is simple and the shop was not that incompetent, though cheap pods may indicate they were.
 
Actually, I think I would up the jets one step, these bikes came from the factory pretty damn lean as it is.
 
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