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How I will be spending my long 4th of July "weekend"

  • Thread starter Thread starter bbytes
  • Start date Start date
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bbytes

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IbPcr.jpg
 
Cleaning your carbs incorrectly and wasting money on inferior rebuild kits??
Doesn't sound like a fun holiday atall.

You need a can of dip. Not that useless spray stuff. And other than that your manual, a print out of Nesissms rebuild tutorial and an oring kit from cycleorings.com will work a treat.

Send those kits back. They're junk mate.
 
TheCafeKid said:
You need a can of dip. Not that useless spray stuff. And other than that your manual, a print out of Nesissms rebuild tutorial and an oring kit from cycleorings.com will work a treat.
Click to expand...

That's not a spray.

And don't worry. I have the rebuild tutorial.

That's disappointing about the carb kits. Don't think I can send an eBay item back. Won't they work better than my clogged up jets I have right now?
 
bbytes said:
Won't they work better than my clogged up jets I have right now?
Click to expand...

Not that I have heard around here. Your best bet is to clean the existing stuff. High quality. If they're a good company you should be able to send them back and admit they weren't necessary with a "Thank you but I'm sorry" line. Offer to have them reduce the refund price by the amount it cost them to ship to you if free shipping was included. At least you'll get most of it back that way. Promise good feedback for working with you. You'll want that money for other things, believe you me.

I don't know if Chemtool is as strong as Chem-dip although they're made by the same company, Berryman's.
 
bbytes said:
That's not a spray.

And don't worry. I have the rebuild tutorial.

That's disappointing about the carb kits. Don't think I can send an eBay item back. Won't they work better than my clogged up jets I have right now?
Click to expand...

inaccurate jetting is the main issue with those packs.
 
Most of what I've read here is the main things to replace are o-rings (a must) from Robert Barr and gaskets IF you need them. The jets and stuff are all brass and made to a very exact specification. Cleaning them will be cheaper AND better than buying new ones that aren't right.
Other than o-rings, only replace parts you NEED to replace, and then only use mikuni jets and valves.

I've cleaned my carbs well twice now (second time while I had em open to adjust the needle clips) and my current o-rings are all still soft and in good shape and my carbs were gunk free.
My carbs work great so I haven't dipped or changed o-rings but I will as soon as I have completed all the more pressing maintenance issues that require attention, even though they don't require it. More or less just for durability and peace of mind.

Tank
 
Hi babes.

Ahhh dont worry, im sure weve all bought stuff we didnt really need!
the jets are so easy to clean, its easier than buying new ones... I know the manuals say DO NIT USE WIRE. But, i do, im very careful and i only use the thinnest ov wire.
It takes about 10 mins to do all the carbs.

Orings... Well, check em, they probably.ok. (ive even done a bodge.on the needle filter using very thin strips ov tin foil and they work really well...

Enjoy ya holiday.

Xxx
 
Orings... Well, check em, they probably.ok.
Click to expand...

Definitely check. They may look ok but pull them apart slightly and you may find them cracked or split. Its always recommended they be changed or you will end up chasing your tail when the darn carbs don't run right.

Do the job right the first time and save yourself lots of agro.

Good luck with the project.

Cheers,
spyug
 
The only thing you can use out of those carb kits is the bowl gasket.

Plus that berrymans product is a liquid that you pour into gas as a fuel treatment. This is the stuff you need: (sorry about the size)
0996.jpg
 
The chem-tool will work (used it the first time around) but you WILL go through about 6 or 7 bottles to do the job properly. Plus, you will need to find something to hold your carbs in that won't corrode away (again, I did it the first time). The gallon can is much easier to use, saves money in the long run, and the best part is you put the top on an reuse it later.

And the jets in those kits are crap. For the price of one kit you would have had everything you needed for the job. And yes, I made that mistake the first time too
 
The jug o' dip is definietly the way to go. If you can't find Berryman's, Gunk is another brand. Auto parts stores have it, and I've seen it at my local Wally World as well. It might not be too late to get the proper o-ring kit from Robert Barr, and I promise you it is worth it. Previous posters are correct in saying that your original jets will be fine, as long as they aren't buggered to begin with, but with a full teardown, soak, new o-rings, reassembly, set proper float height, you will not only have an awesome running bike, but also bragging rights that you just completely rehabbed your own carbs. Believe me it feels good to be able to say it, and if you're somewhat sensible when it comes to using tools, you'll do fine. Just go slow, be organized, and do each step in order. Sometimes it helps to always have one carb fully assembled for reference, but the instructions are so well put together that you should be fine.

Everything you need is here in Basscliff's "little" site. I think you'll even find out how to order the correct o-rings. Order the o-rings, go get some carb dip, print out the instructions, and begin the teardown/soaking while you wait for your o-rings to arrive.

BassCliff's site http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Order your o-rings http://www.cycleorings.com/

CV carbs http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/mc_maint/GS_CV_Carb_Cleaning_Series.pdf

VM carbs http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

Good luck!


http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
AFRetired said:
The only thing you can use out of those carb kits is the bowl gasket.
Click to expand...

Nah, he can use the top cover gaskets in them too. :p

Of course, the kits cost way more than the gaskets would. I, too, made the rebuild kit mistake the first time. I still have the brass bits from them and keep them around just in case a real part gets lost or breaks or something. But, yeah, rebuild kits suck.
 
I would just grab a gallon of Diesel and add some ATF to it.
Both will lift anything off, and won't harm rubber or plastic.
 
So a quick question to add to this. My bike currently has an aftermarket exhaust that appears to be full flow. In fact, it might just be straight pipe. I don't see anything that looks like a muffler inside the pipe, although the tip does bend downwards. I have no idea if the previous owner rejetted after putting these on. Is there anyway to tell if its been rejetted? If it has, would it be better to use the cheap K&L kit, or use the jets that are currently in it? This is my first carb rebuild, so as much information as possible is much appreciated. Thanks.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, I'm getting the stock tailpipes in the mail in a few days. That's the reason I'm asking.
 
Easiest way to tell is to take them apart and look at the numbering on the jets. You may need a magnifying glass if your eyes are like mine.
 
bbytes said:
So a quick question to add to this. My bike currently has an aftermarket exhaust that appears to be full flow. In fact, it might just be straight pipe. I don't see anything that looks like a muffler inside the pipe, although the tip does bend downwards. I have no idea if the previous owner rejetted after putting these on. Is there anyway to tell if its been rejetted? If it has, would it be better to use the cheap K&L kit, or use the jets that are currently in it? This is my first carb rebuild, so as much information as possible is much appreciated. Thanks.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, I'm getting the stock tailpipes in the mail in a few days. That's the reason I'm asking.
Click to expand...

Check your current jets, then order Mikuni bits for what you need. Jets are cheap.
 
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