R
RogerW
Guest
I was wondering how long the stock r/r last. My 82 gs850l has 13,000 km . I did all the tests and everything was within specs. Should I be replacing parts now or wait? Thanks.
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Steve
GS Whisperer
If it is still working, GREAT. :encouragement: :clap:
However, at 13,000 km, it's still low kilometerage. If you want to do the minmum, make sure all your connections are CLEAN and remove the infamous "stator loop", then you should be good for a while.
You should be aware, however, that WHEN (not IF) your R/R fails, it will likely take the stator with it. If you want to be a bit ahead of the game and change parts in your garage, not out on the road, look for a Polaris R/R and change it at your convenience.
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However, at 13,000 km, it's still low kilometerage. If you want to do the minmum, make sure all your connections are CLEAN and remove the infamous "stator loop", then you should be good for a while.
You should be aware, however, that WHEN (not IF) your R/R fails, it will likely take the stator with it. If you want to be a bit ahead of the game and change parts in your garage, not out on the road, look for a Polaris R/R and change it at your convenience.
.
The R/R is quite small but decently reliable. The main problems with the charging system on your bike are:
1) one leg of the stator winding circuit is sent from the stator up to the hand control and then back down to the R/R. A long and convoluted route. As the circuit ages, particularly the connectors, resistance builds up and then the wires in question melt which often damages the entire harness. You should fix the wiring by sending the stator wires directly into the R/R.
2) there is excess current produced by the generator and with a shunt R/R like came stock this extra current is returned to the stator where it creates heat and can cook it. Installing a SERIES type R/R will solve this issue. You can get a nice used SH775 from ebay for about $45 shipped these days so that's another worthwhile upgrade.
Now the part that gets a lot of panties in a twist: all this info I just regurgitated is mentioned countless times in older threads. A search will turn up this same into times about 100.
Please check the newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature for more info on common problems.
1) one leg of the stator winding circuit is sent from the stator up to the hand control and then back down to the R/R. A long and convoluted route. As the circuit ages, particularly the connectors, resistance builds up and then the wires in question melt which often damages the entire harness. You should fix the wiring by sending the stator wires directly into the R/R.
2) there is excess current produced by the generator and with a shunt R/R like came stock this extra current is returned to the stator where it creates heat and can cook it. Installing a SERIES type R/R will solve this issue. You can get a nice used SH775 from ebay for about $45 shipped these days so that's another worthwhile upgrade.
Now the part that gets a lot of panties in a twist: all this info I just regurgitated is mentioned countless times in older threads. A search will turn up this same into times about 100.
Please check the newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature for more info on common problems.
On my current 850 the r/r pooped out at around 30k miles. Luckily it didn't fry the stator! On my first 850 it was more like 15k miles and it took the stator with it.
I should add that the GS I owned as a kid I took to a shop. They repaired it and I don't know about the wiring/ connectors but the wiring on my current GS had a couple of charred connectors which may have been the demise of the r/r.
I should add that the GS I owned as a kid I took to a shop. They repaired it and I don't know about the wiring/ connectors but the wiring on my current GS had a couple of charred connectors which may have been the demise of the r/r.
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The stator runs in hot oil. Eventually after 30 years that will damage the coating o. The wires. The diodes used in the OEM RR are the weak point and they fail. I've never bought the shunt vs series regulator idea because plenty of machines use the same design and don't have these problems. Either a dry stator or different manufacturer seems to be an advantage.
Nippon denso sold Suzuki junk for years and gave the GS a bad reputation.
Nippon denso sold Suzuki junk for years and gave the GS a bad reputation.
apparently you think that hot (280 degF) oil can burn epoxy insulation off a fresh stator. That insulation is cured at400 degF and above.That would be highly improbable without an engine ..fire.
would it not be much simpler to accept the overwhelming evidence?
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blackhammer
Forum Mentor
So posplayer, not trying to be argumentative here, but I have an 1150 stator that the epoxy is cracking and chipping away on, is that just a case of old age breaking it down? Not heat cycles? Or a combination of both?
i just notice you used the word fresh in your post and wondering if old age will get to the epoxy eventually.
i defer to your excellent knowledge of the GS electrics in general, and perhaps you've posted it elsewhere, but what in general causes the stator to become less efficient?
i just notice you used the word fresh in your post and wondering if old age will get to the epoxy eventually.
i defer to your excellent knowledge of the GS electrics in general, and perhaps you've posted it elsewhere, but what in general causes the stator to become less efficient?
Without a picture it would be imprudent to offer an opinion on your stator.
My reference to fresh was to point out the specific example where there is obvious heating on the upper part of a stator. That would be where a stator would receive the least amount of cooling oil. You never see stators that have the lower part burned without having the upper part much more affected.
You can start reading about the differences between Shunt and Series R/R here.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install
https://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4066862/ssr-vs-fh012aa-pdf-may-31-2012-10-20-pm-903k?da=y
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S
sharpy
Guest
37 years. touch wood
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G
Guest
Guest
My 82 1100E R/R was still working after a mystery amount of km's (odometer has been stuck at 29,xxx for at least the last two owners and I have put 12,000-15,000km on it since I bought it) but I changed to the SH-775 as a preventative measure anyway.
This is what I did. Preventative maintenance is much more palatable than roadside repairs.
OP is in Canada, so that $45 SH-775 will be closer to $100CDN by the time he pays the extra shipping and exchange rates. It's still worthwhile, but the price jump across the border is steep.
Mark
Here you go Mark, a SH775 located in Canada with free shipping for $57.05 canadian. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/EB253-2013-...ash=item43f5abd41c:g:GFQAAOSwPCVX5ENN&vxp=mtr
G
Guest
Guest
This is a picture of my GS1100ED (bored to 1166cc) after a 250 mile ride on a brand new Electrosport stator. The ride was out Hiway 33 to Maricopa CA and back to Santa Barbara.
You can see that teh part of the stator that is low is not browned. The upper side whoich gets less oil is brown.Spirited twisties most of the way.
This is with a MOSFET Shunt R/R. After changing to a Campfire Series R/R there has been no darkening of the stator. One other factor is the sprayer that was also installed. The combination of the R/R and the prayer substantially reduced by operating temperatures (more than 30 degF)
Nippon denso sold Suzuki junk for years and gave the GS a bad reputation.
I agree with this EXCEPT I'd have to rephrase "The stator runs in hot oil". It doesn't. It is just oil dripping off the shaft for lubrication I think. It is returned at the bottom of the casing. ("...plenty of machines use the same design..."Indeed this CB450S I have is perfectly dry at the stator and still has the original, albeit the bike's only got 40k km...)
anyways Perhaps this oil stains the windings but varnish can be quite dark and work fine, oil or not.
I've several old electric shop motors around from the 50's-one is from the '30s- they have very "dark" varnish but they work fine.
Mind you, if I unwound these, it's plainly brittle!
It's a wonder to me nobody has glued a heatsink oto the casing..correction: no one except me? I glued one on the 400E for a lark....as to if it does any good? can't say.
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I have read here that the Hayabusa has a drilled out crankshaft to spray the stators. My own sprayer was very effective. People do not realize that the positive feedback mechanism that can lead to stator overheating. Even for a constant current, a higher temp creates a higher resistance which creates more power loss in the stator heating it more, which increases the temperature and continuing the cycle. 280 degF oil is actually cooling oil and seems to reduce the operating temperature by a noticeable amount.
Here's an ugly that was in my 400T when bought...WHAT was going on? 
but it still worked fine. IT had had a new regulator. Note the oil so familiar..
but it still worked fine. IT had had a new regulator. Note the oil so familiar..
It clearly has two burned poles/windings at 9 o'clock. That is not oil damage. Just because it seems to work doesn't mean that it has not been compromised. You don't have a baseline measurement to compare it to from when it was new. This is clearly not oil damage/ aging.Here's an ugly that was in my 400T when bought...WHAT was going on?
and here's a nicer one from a parted 650G (50000km) Is it oem? Don't' know if it's a replacement... oh well still works but I keep it as a spare. I sort of wonder if those globs of varnish won't crack if it's so hot in there?
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