How to be sure I installed my new clutch cable correctly?

[DrMuscles]

(Please correct any mistakes in my vocabulary. I'm still learning about motorcycles, and I don't know whether I'm using the right terms in the right ways.)

The clutch cable on my 1982 GS850 GL broke. I bought a new one from D2Moto, advertised for 1981 - 1983 GS850, GS850G, and GS850GL. It does not look like the one pictured. Instead, it looks like this. In that picture, it is on the left. The broken cable is on the right (missing the round end near the top of the picture). You'll notice the new cable is a few inches longer than the one it is replacing. Should I be concerned by that? Where do people get the OEM cables I keep seeing recommended?

I installed the new cable, but I'm left wondering if I did it correctly, or if I need a different cable. There are several issues, which I'll number for reference:

1. The cable has just barely enough length peeking outside the sheath to install it. I have to adjust both ends of the cable to be as short as possible for it to fit. Once installed, I can adjust the ends a little, but how worried should I be about tension on the cable? I don't want to break a new one.
2. The lever arm on top of the clutch case has a range of motion, about 45 degrees, where it can swing freely. I can swing it in that range without encountering any resistance. When people talk about "free play" in the clutch cable, how does it relate to the lever arm's free range of motion? Should I install the cable so that it rests where the lever arm has no free swing left, or where it has maximum free swing, or somewhere in between?
3. I installed the cable while the bike was on its center stand. I tried testing it by starting the bike, pulling the clutch handle to disengage the clutch, shifting to first gear, and watching the rear wheel. Even if I install the cable such that the lever arm has no free swing at rest, the rear wheel moves when the clutch cable is pulled all the way. (Do we call this "pulled in" or "pulled out"? On the clutch end, the cable is coming into the sheath, and on the handlebar end, it is coming out.) I know from reading around different forums that this is a common problem, especially with this bike and other old bikes. I'm still left wondering: how else can I test the bike to make sure I installed the clutch cable correctly, and adjusted it to the right amount of "free play"? I don't want to risk tearing up my clutch (installed brand new one year ago by a mechanic) testing a poorly installed clutch cable.

I don't have any motorcycle friends who can help me with this. If anyone here would be open to lend a hand in person, I live in midtown Houston and will happily compensate you for the trouble.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

 

[Guest]

Did you route the cable according to they way the manual shows it? A little longer is better than a little shorter. You want to make sure you can turn the handle bars fully lock to lock and there is no pulling or binding. When Installing the cable, you want the adjuster all the way in if possible and have 5-10 mm of free play in the lever. As the cable stretches over time you will be able to take up the extra free play with the adjuster at the lever. When the bike is on the center stand the back wheel can move while in neutral, but you should be able to hold it still with your hand. As far as adjusting the cable at the lever, if the is no free play, there is tension on the pressure plate and it could cause slipping, if there is too much free play you may not be able to have enough pull to fully separate the clutches causing a drag. Good luck and if you are not sure it is routed right, download a manual for you bike from bikecliffs website and near the back of the manual, you should see some illustrations of how it is suppose to be routed.

 

[DrMuscles]

Thank you for the reply!

I took a video recording the route of the old cable before I removed it, and I matched that route with the new cable. As far as my inexperience can tell, it matches the prescription of the manual as well (which I have a paper version of from Haynes; I cannot find the one for my specific bike on Cliff's website).

What is "binding"?

By "adjuster", do you mean the one at the handlebar? What do you call the adjustment at the clutch?

I cannot hold the wheel still with my hand, or even my foot. Should I give up and hand it over to a mechanic? Does the bike require some adjustment inside the clutch case (which I do not have the tools or space to work on)?

 

[tom203]

I'd get the OEM cable...it's worth the extra bucks...like in this link or head to suzuki dealer or go ebaying for oem one, As mentioned ,it's a little tricky to get free play just right. Hopefully, there is a member on here that can lend a hand

https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d401fef8700230d8b4e62f/handlebar-model-z

this used one looks good to me at decent price.. it would make a good spare

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-1983-...eDesc=0|0&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories

 

[Steve]

Do you still have the stock handlebars on the bike? :-k

They would be taller and VERY uncomfortable.

If you have replaced them with shorter, more-comfortable bars, the stock cable for an "L" would be a bit too long. If that is the case, get the cable for the "G" model. And, yes, the Suzuki cable will be better than an aftermarket cable (typcially a Motion Pro). When first installed, it will be hard to tell the difference, but the Suzuki cable will last a LOT longer.

Adjustment: Start at the bottom of the cable. Screw it all the way in to its holder. Hold the lever at the top of the clutch cover (right next to the oil fill cover) to push it toward the center of the bike. Attach the cable to the lever.

Move to the top, at the clutch lever. There are two pieces to the adjuster there, the actual adjuster and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut (the larger one), turn the adjuster all the way in, making it shorter. Turn the two pieces so the slot in each of them is open so you can slide the cable in. Lubricate the barrel on the end of the cable, slide it into the bottom of the lever, then slip it through the slots in the adjuster. You should have quite a bit of slack in the cable at this point, which will not allow you to disegage the clutch.

Move back down to the bottom adjuster, turn it out, removing most of the play in the cable. Eventually, you should get to a point where the end of the clutch lever will move just a little bit (maybe 5mm) before it starts getting hard. Tighten the locknut there. Squeeze the lever a few times to make sure everything is seated properly, then fine-tune the slack with the upper adjuster and lock it into place.

.

 

[Guest]

Sorry to necro this post but man that was a very well written answer and precisely what I was looking for. Not sure if it helped that guy back in 2018 but it sure helped me in 2023.

You're the man.