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How to change Fork Oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter DMPLATT
  • Start date Start date
D

DMPLATT

Guest
I posted this in the Little GSR. I appreciate all the answers I got, but I'm a bit hesitant as to how to actually do this.
The Suzuki Manual says to completely dismantle the front end. My question is 2 fold.

1. I take the caps of the top and loosen the drain plug and move the forks up and down to get all the oil out. Do I then need to take the springs out or something? I can't believe I just dump the oil in with out taking something out.

2. I understand that I can use anything from Dextron ATF to regular 10W motor oil. WHo weighs about 215lbs and what do you use for a mid range suspension?

Thanks for the help.
 
Yes

Yes

Hey Dave,
It's a pretty easy job but make sure you've got your front end secured (bike on the center stand with something under the front end so it won't fall forward). It's important to pump the front forks so you get all the old oil out. I would suggest you remove the springs and wipe them dry.

Make sure you put them in the same way they came out because you will notice there is a slight difference between the two ends. Any fork oil will do just fine and I seriously doubt you'd notice much difference regardless of which weight you use. Some cool biker dude will tell you there is a lot of difference but with my 35 years riding bikes, I'm not cool enough to figure it out.

Make sure you get all of the oil out and measure the new oil carefully...I used a baby bottle, which is extremely accurate.

When you push the springs back in, be patient and don't take a chance on stripping the cap screws. It's an easy job and you'll have no problems!! 8)
 
i would recomend after your drain the old fork oil pour about 3 cups of kerosene into the forks to help break up the rest of the old fork sludge, work the forks up and down good so you slosh it all around in side the forks, then drain the kerosene repeat process if fork oil is extra nasty. then let the forks drain and dry out, kerosen will evorate away in about a hour or so then go ahead and add the amount of oil you need to add. i find measureing the oil level from the top of the forks with the forks full compressed and springs removed gives you the most accurate way to tell what the facotry spec is. you can take away a 1/8" to the fork oil level since the forks are at a angle and not up right so if the manuel sez you need 5 1/2" of oil from the top when the forks are siting striaght up get the fork oil level to 5 3/8" if the forks are still on the bike when you fill them back up. that should pan out to be about 5 1/2" when forks are set up right.

if you want your forks a little stiff i would recomend adding a little extra preload to the forks by making a pvc spacer (3/4" dia pvc pipe) start it at about 1.5 long. install if you want more stiffness cut a new peice at 2" install try that, more cut new peice to 2.5" try that get it. i have only needed 1.5" inches and that helped alot.

-ryan

p.s kerosene is safe on fork seals
 
See....

See....

See, Dave.... I told you some serious biker would come along and give you the real scoop...now you're set!! 8O 8O 8O 8O 8O
 
Tag for later when I get my progressive suspension springs.

Dm of mD
 
Let me know how you like the progressive springs. I've seen them for my bike for around $60.
 
I just installed Progressive shocks and fork springs on my 1100 and don't know why I waited so long to do so. It used to ride like a truck and now It feels like a new bike again.
 
I use Progressive fork springs in my 850, and they're great. I recently replaced my fork seals and went from ATF to 20 weight fork oil. That change, along with 1/2" more preload really improved the front end handling. By the way, I don't use any air pressure.

That works for me, but I like a firmer front suspension to go with my old Fox Street Shox with stiffer springs in the rear. I get only about 1 1/2" of sag at the rear with me in the saddle and none from the weight of the bike alone.
 
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