how to change valve cover gasket

[cromwell1234]

Listen, ***JUST DO THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT***, its like changing your oil but leaving the old oil filter on for a few years--makes no sense---everyone is just trying to help!! you'll be happy later!!

 

[Fenixgoon]

Hi Mr. Fenixgoon,

Feel free to read the valve adjustment guide on my website. Then we'll see if you have any questions. I like using the tappet depressor tool, some don't. Have you inventoried your shims yet? If you keep track of your clearances and what shims you have installed, it makes it easier to plan ahead and order or swap for the shims you will need. After "guesstimating" the sizes you'll need, you can have a small selection of shims on hand, then you don't have to wait for the right size shims to arrive in the mail. No down time!

Also, for those of you with an '82 GS850G, count your valve cover bolts. As Mr. Steve mentioned, sometime in '82 the valve covers changed from a 16 bolt pattern to a 19 bolt pattern. Be sure to order the right part.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

BassCliff,

My tool inventory is virtually nonexistent. I need to order some tappet feelers to measure the valve clearances. Where do you install shims, exactly? I didn't see anything offhand regarding that in the valve adjustment guide.

Also, where can I get a valve cover gasket? I can't seem to find it online anywhere. I guess I'm just glossing over it when going through the parts diagrams on bikebandit. On a sad note, Z1 enterprises is currently out of float bowl gaskets

 

[Steve]

From the Bike Bandit Cylinder Head Cover fische:

You are looking for part #2

http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs650gd-1983-cylinder-head-cover/o/m6091sch233143

 

[BassCliff]

BassCliff,

My tool inventory is virtually nonexistent. I need to order some tappet feelers to measure the valve clearances. Where do you install shims, exactly? I didn't see anything offhand regarding that in the valve adjustment guide.

Also, where can I get a valve cover gasket? I can't seem to find it online anywhere. I guess I'm just glossing over it when going through the parts diagrams on bikebandit. On a sad note, Z1 enterprises is currently out of float bowl gaskets

Hi,

Look on pages 17 and 18 of my valve adjustment guide and you will see pictures like this:

Check the clearance like this:

Remove/install shim here (in the "bucket" under the cam lobe):

If you are interested in a Real Gaskets reusable silicon gasket, go here:

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm#suzuki

For your GS650G the part# is RG-GS650-1.

If you want an OEM Suzuki gasket, the part number is 11173-34212. It's #2 in this picture from www.alpha-sports.com:

Check the list of vendors in the mega-welcome for most of our favorite online resources.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Fenixgoon]

BassCliff,

Thanks for the great pictures! I have many more questions for everyone though, if you guys don't mind me picking your brains more

With regards to valve adjustments, how do I measure anything finer than the tappet feeler I'm using? The valve clearances on my GS650 (clymer manual) are listed as 0.03-0.08mm (0.001-0.003 inches), and the smallest tappet feelers available from Z1 Enterprises are 0.002-0.003 inches. Is there any point to buying a single tappet over a card of 6? Is there a better tool for the job? I know spark plug gap sets have very fine increments.

Also, I noticed that the valve shims come in sets of 5. I'll need a shim for each valve, correct?

Is it worthwhile getting a pair of calipers? Well, I'll probably need those for the float bowls on the carbs, come to think of it.

That's all I have for now I think. Thanks in advance to everyone, once again!

 

[Steve]

... if you guys don't mind me picking your brains more

Actually, we would rather have you asking questions than making silly mistakes.

With regards to valve adjustments, how do I measure anything finer than the tappet feeler I'm using? The valve clearances on my GS650 (clymer manual) are listed as 0.03-0.08mm (0.001-0.003 inches), and the smallest tappet feelers available from Z1 Enterprises are 0.002-0.003 inches.

As nice as the metric feelers might be, you can also get a set in standard units. The 0.0015" feeler is about 0.0381mm. If that won't fit, you will want to be changing the shim anyway. It won't hurt to be just a little over spec, but you definitely don't want to be under spec. Remember that .003", which is your maximum clearance, is only the thickness of a piece of paper. Many like to use metric feelers to make the math easier, but you have a copy of my spreadsheet, so it won't be a problem for you.

Is there any point to buying a single tappet over a card of 6? Is there a better tool for the job? I know spark plug gap sets have very fine increments.

You will need at least two feelers, one for the maximum size, the other for the minimum size. Many times it's nice to have the ones in between, so get the variety pack. I have the fan-fold set that goes from .0015" to .025". The increments might be small, but spark plug gaps are usually about ten times too big to be considered for valve clearance use.

Also, I noticed that the valve shims come in sets of 5. I'll need a shim for each valve, correct?

I was going to ask you where you were finding them in sets of five, but I think I found it. Z1 sells shims for about the best price, and they are shown in groups of five in the catalog, but they are sold individually. You already have a shim for each valve, but you won't necessarily need a new one for each valve. Look at the clearances you have, look at the shims you have. You might be able to move shims around to minimize the number of shims you need to buy. But ... DON'T TURN THE ENGINE OVER IF ANY OF THE SHIMS ARE NOT INSTALLED.

Is it worthwhile getting a pair of calipers? Well, I'll probably need those for the float bowls on the carbs, come to think of it.

YES, it's worth getting calipers. Besides setting the float levels, they are also handy for measuring any shims that have had their sizes worn off. Many other uses, but those are probably the most-used ones for general maintenance.


.

 

[NES07DEZ]

what are the torque requirements on the 1982 850 L.
for the valve cover I am confuse in the manual it says 5 to six ft pounds.
and on some other threads it says 1.5 ounce pounds.
what is the difference and what is exsacly the foofpounds.

 

[willie]

Hey BassCliff...thanks for posting the link to realgaskets. what a score! and they're practically in my backyard. looks like Christmas has arrived early. Yee haw!
Willie in TN

 

[Nessism]

what are the torque requirements on the 1982 850 L.
for the valve cover I am confuse in the manual it says 5 to six ft pounds.
and on some other threads it says 1.5 ounce pounds.
what is the difference and what is exsacly the foofpounds.

6.5 ft-lbs if using the stock valve cover gasket, 15 in-lbs if using a Real Gasket

 

[Fenixgoon]

after reading the guide on valve adjustments, i have a few quick questions about measuring clearances and removing valve shims (if required):

1) when measuring the clearances, it seem like the cam lobes were in both vertical and horizontal orientations. Which one is correct, or does it need to be both to measure either the intake or exhaust valve clearances?

2) when removing shims, is a tappet depressor tool required? if so, are said tools acquired easily?


Thanks in advance

 

[BassCliff]

after reading the guide on valve adjustments, i have a few quick questions about measuring clearances and removing valve shims (if required):

1) when measuring the clearances, it seem like the cam lobes were in both vertical and horizontal orientations. Which one is correct, or does it need to be both to measure either the intake or exhaust valve clearances?

On page six of the guide you will find this explanation:

And now comes the finesse part. Use a large-ish 19mm box end or socket wrench to turn the motor using the bolt on the right side under the ignition cover. The picture below is the first position to check the exhaust clearances for cylinders 1 and 2. The #1 exhaust cam lobe should point forward and parallel with the top of the head.

Insert your feeler gauges and check the clearance between the lobe and the shim for #1 and #2 exhaust. If you must change a shim, rotate the bucket so that the notch is facing toward the center of the motor, use your MotionPro shim tool (it takes some practice) to push down the bucket, then use heavy tweezers to remove the shim. If you change a shim, coat it with a little oil before you insert it then turn the motor a few times to seat it and check the clearance again with your feeler gauges. The shims should have numbers on one side. Put the number side down so the numbers don't get worn off.

Once you've checked exhaust #1 and #2, turn the motor so that the #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check clearances for intake #1 and #2. Replace if necessary, don't forget to spin the motor to seat the shims and re-check.

Now on to #3 and #4. Turn the motor so that the #4 exhaust cam lobe is parallel to the head, pointing forward. Check clearances for #3 and #4 exhaust, replace shims if necessary.

Next, turn the motor so that the #4 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check intake clearances for #3 and #4.

Simply stated, when measuring exhaust clearances, point the outside exhaust cam lobe forward (parallel with the top of the head) and measure both valves on that side. When measuring the intakes, point the outside intake cam lobe up (perpendicular to the top of the head) and measure both valves on that side. Do this for both sides of the motor. I was hoping that the addendum (starting on page 15) made all of this clear.

2) when removing shims, is a tappet depressor tool required? if so, are said tools acquired easily?

I recommend the tappet tool. But many here have used the "zip tie method" successfully. You'll find Mr. Matchless' zip tie supplement in the same place you found the valve check guide. Z1enterprises.com is one place to get the tool, about $15.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Fenixgoon]

So in that picture, Basscliff, the #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointed towards the front of the bike?

The setup is like this then (switching intake and exhaust labels though) on the left side of the engine?
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4554/leftcamcopypr4.jpg

On the right side of the engine (again switching intake and exhaust labels):
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7512/rightcamcopyvg8.jpg

A= Cylinder 4?
B= Cylinder 3?

That's how my cams are currently positioned, but I don't know which are intake and which are exhaust

 

[Nessism]

So in that picture, Basscliff, the #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointed towards the front of the bike?

The setup is like this then (switching intake and exhaust labels though) on the left side of the engine?
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4554/leftcamcopypr4.jpg

On the right side of the engine (again switching intake and exhaust labels):
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7512/rightcamcopyvg8.jpg

A= Cylinder 4?
B= Cylinder 3?

That's how my cams are currently positioned, but I don't know which are intake and which are exhaust

Honestly, you are making this harder than it needs to be.

The valves are adjusted in pairs. Set one of the outboard cylinders (either 1 or 4) with the exhaust lobe pointing forward and then check the exhaust valves on that side. For example: set #4 pointing forward and then check 4E and 3E. Next set #1 forward and check 1E and 2E.

Intake valves are set in pairs as well. Set #1 or #4 pointing straight up and then adjust the intake valves on that side.

That's all there is to it.

 

[Larry D]

but I don't know which are intake and which are exhaust

Intakes are on the carb side and the exhaust are on the header pipe side of the engine.

Intake air in and exhaust air out.

 

[Steve]

Fenixgoon, also need to make sure you are talking about the correct left and right.

All references to left and right are made as if you are sitting on the bike, ready to ride.
Cylinders are numbered 1 to 4 from left to right. #1 is under your clutch hand, #4 is under your throttle hand.

As mentioned earlier, the intake cam is nearer the carbs, on the back side of the engine.
The exhaust cam is on the front side of the engine, just above the exhaust pipes.

.

 

[Fenixgoon]

Alright I got it now. Thanks for putting up with my stupidity everyone

 

[Fenixgoon]

I have another question:

When taking out shims, I'm finding it hard to get the shim tool between the shim and the camshaft when the cam lobe is pointed vertically. Would it be possible to put the shim tool in when the valve is at its lowest position, then rotate the engine so that the valve comes up into the shim tool?

Seems like it'd be easier, but I don't know whether that risks damaging anything or not.