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How To: Get Inside A Guage (With Pictures)

Nerobro

Nerobro

Forum Mentor
This one is especially for planecrazy..

I Had to move the guts of a good guage, with a cracked case, into a new case. This will also work for accessing the guage to put screws back into the guage face. *ahem*planecrazy*ahem*

The first step is to seperate the crystal from the body of the guage. Most people have suggested prying the metal away from the case. I can't see a satisfactory method of this. Especially crimping it back in place.

guagesetup.jpg


I took a dremmel cutting disk, and arbor, and placed them in my drill press. I set the depth to be about 1/8" above the metal ring surrounding the crystal.

guagecutting.jpg


And here's what you get. If you cut slowly, and don't use much pressure, the plastic won't melt, and you will get this beautifully smooth cut.

guageintwoparts.jpg


Putting the guage back togother is fairly simple. The cutting disk is thin so the thickness of material removed doesn't seem to make a difference. I used five minute epoxy to put the guage back togother. Be very carefull just to get epoxy on the joining surfaces. Some will squeeze out when you join the sides, so don't overdo it!

Due to the time pressed nature of using epoxy, I don't have pictures of applying the epoxy and smashing the two sides togother.

Now we have a problem. Two prefectly smooth mating surfaces with a liquid between them. they are going to want to slide and moosh. And generally get into bad alignment. However we have a solution. Electrical tape.

Wrap the tape fairly loosely. Just make sure there are no wrinkles and you will have perfect tension.

guagetaped.jpg


Looks pretty? We considdered leaving the tape there. But I got curious. After waiting fifteen minutes for the glue to set well.

guageuntape.jpg


The epoxy doesn't bond to the adhesive on the back of the tape. So it leaves you with a wonderfully smooth surface.

guageresult.jpg


Sorry about some of the foggy images, but my camera doesn't work so well in the low light conditions I like to live and work in.
 
Very Cool. I'm going to give it a try because my trip odometer doesn't work and it's nice to be able to tell how far you've been riding.
 
I'll be using your trick this winter as well, to reinstall a loose screw (with locktite).

Thanks!
Steve 8)
 
scotty said:
That belongs in the garage as a permanant item for sure.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. Nero, buddy, you gotta ask Frank to add that man.

Excellent work!
 
Excellent post :)

I agree with Scotty and Mark, this should go in the garage 8)
 
I'll probably try try this fix myself, i have a screw from the speedometer face plate rolling around :?
 
wrench said:
I'll probably try try this fix myself, i have a screw from the speedometer face plate rolling around :?
Click to expand...

Me too John. On two bikes! That's why I was pumped about it :)
Saved me the trouble of having to figure it out myself.
 
That's what I was referring to as well (Nero already knows this). I experimented earlier this year on a broken speedo ... thought I'd drill throught the lens and then cap the area over the screws so that it looked "right."

It was only after I cracked the lens that I realized it was glass ... thought it was plastic all along. :oops: :lol:

Now I realize that with the right type of bit and careful drilling I could get through the lens as planned, but Nero's method is a better bet, and will be more "seamless" when complete than what I tried.

Nice job, Buddy!

Steve 8)
 
I will get this added to the GS Garage shortly. Thanks for the email pointing it out!

--- Frank ---
 
how to get inside a gage

how to get inside a gage

I have gotten into numerous gages, not by cutting the plastic, but by using a small straight slot screw driver,
At the metal ring that holds the glass to the plastic body, place the screw driver at the base of metal ring next to the plastic body, slip driver under edge of metal ring and twist it to open up the metal ring just work your way around like opening a can, for about 3/4 of the way around,then the ring with the glass can be worked off, it don't look pretty, but that don't matter, when you are through doing whatever you wanted to do you can pop the glass ring combo back on the plastic body, then get a small pair of channel lock pliers (ignition size works great) and gently crimp the part of the metal ring you bent up eariler. All the bent metal is not on the ring you can see on an L model but hidden by the rubber gasket, This method leaves the sealing and integrity of the gage intact where I think glue can fail as GS's do have a vibration issue. The ring could be painted if scratched This method takes about an hour to get the glass off.
Whatever you do,do not use a spray cleaner to clean the speedo or tach mechanism out, there appears to be a damping oil in the mechanism and when you clean that out your tach will be bouncing off 14K at about 3K actual( I suspect same with speedo) been there done that, I added a thin silicon oil to that tach but its not the same
 
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