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How to pry the pushrod seal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Does somebody know if it is possible to replace the clutch pushrod seal without taking the pushrod out. The pushrod is only comming out on the clutch side and it will be a lot more work, draining oil and taking apart the whole clutch, that way. 8)
 
What model are we discussing?
If is one of the big bores, with the clutch actuation on the right hand side , you have to remove the cover; if you put the bike on the sidestand, you can take that cover of and lose very little oil 100mls max.
If it is one of the smaller models with the clutch actuation on the left you can just withdraw the pushrod from the left change the seal and reinsert the shaft.
BTW if it is a big bore you should also replace the two bearings as well ans play in those bearings is most of the reason it will be leaking in the first place.
Dink
 
Oh, sorry I forgott the most important :oops:

It's a GS 550 E from -82.

The clutch mekanism with the pushrod is on the left side but the rod will only come out on the right side, by removing the clutch preasure plate. I got quiet surprised that I couldn't just slide the rod out on the left side wich I could om my former Yamma.
 
I just did this little chore on my 1980 550. I didn't remove the pushrod I just used a hammer and a very sharp chisel. Cut into it and was able to get a pair of needle nose pliers into the gap and just pulled it out. OK, this is the crude way to do it, but it works...just be careful with that hammer and chisel! I unnerstan dem thar NASCAR boys wud a done it the same way! :lol:
 
Just ordered a pushrod seal for my 450s. How about who ever gets a chance to try it first post's what happens? Mine should be in next week and I'll definetly let you know how it works out.

I haven't given it much thought to how I am actually going to do it, but I have read that you can file off the end of a screw, so it's not so pointed, and then screw it a bit into the existing seal. Then use pliers to grab the screw and pull the seal out. Food for thought.
 
I'll get my on friday, so I hope I'll get into it this weekend. I let you know how it work out.

Not a bad Idea about the screw. Now I have plenty of ways. Thanks
 
I fought the oil seal....

I fought the oil seal....

I fought the oil seal....and the oil seal won!

Well I attempted to do many things today and one of them was replace the clutch pushrod oil seal. The old won came out real easy...I little prying and it slipped right out. The new one looked a little different. It had a edge that the old one did not. I figured no problem I just had to hammer this thing is and it will pop right in place....wrong...I bent the seal. So now I have to order another...there were two different types(flanged and not flanged) and this time I am ordering 2 of each. I put everything back together using the old seal, it will hold it till I get another seal but it's gonna leak a little. :lol:

I hope you had better luck!

Good news is that the broken exhaust header bolt was no problem to get out and I swapped the pipes for the shiney set!
 
Yeah, my experience is unfortunally almost the same as yours. The prying was the minor problem. I drilled a litte hole in the old seal, screw in a filed screw and pryed the old seal. The new seal didn't have a distans heel as the old one resulting in that the new one was hammered in to long ans also got oblique (is that the right word)? I warmed up the engine but it didn't seem to leak then but today when I rode the bike to work its still leaking. I will order a new seal with the distans heels so it couldn't move in to far. I start to hate this part of the engine. :evil:
 
Misery loves company. Sorry to hear you had a tough time as well. I've ordered a few replacement seals to try again. Wish me luck!
 
It took me two seals too. Remember, you're building character! 8O :lol: :lol:
 
I'm really hoping that I just ordered the wrong seal. On the 450 there are two different seals, one with flange and one without. I order with flange and it is not the same as what was in there.

I'm not sure if I am bulding character or if I'm building a good reputation at my local dealer for ordering parts.
 
I'm not sure if I am bulding character or if I'm building a good reputation at my local dealer for ordering parts.
Click to expand...

Yes, It feels kind of embarrassing ordering the same part over and over again. :oops: God luck in your second attempt. :D

I'm going away for a couple of days so I don't have time to try again until next week.
 
Might I offer an observation?
I to have battled whith the cluch seal, and yes there are to types, one flanged and one not flanged. The point is, I think, that the flanged one is the original. At least on my -81 GS450. It can only be replaced by separating the engine halves, a major repair for such a small fault. Therefor suzuki offers a "quick fix" in form of a unflanged seal.
When installing the unflanged one (yes, the chisel method works great), be sure that the retaining plate is ok and can be securely bolted on, there is not much holding the seal in place. It would be sensible to use some kind of sealant, especially on the outer edges of the unflanged one, Versachem Blue is my favourite.
 
Thanks blo! My plate is in fine condition. The bike must have had the seal replaced before because the unflanged seal is what is/was in there now.

Might I offer an observation...forcing a flanged type in with a hammer is not going to work! :lol:
 
I'm sorry now for not taking a closer look at the seal. Whats with this flanged type? :?: My dealer said there are two types but he didn't mention flanges. There was a type with didstance heels wich wasn't able to hammer in to far; and a type without this heels (wich I bought) and hammered in to far resulting in an oblique fit. :(
 
Not sure if the 550 is the same as the 450. I ordered a microfiche of all the parts for my bike so when I want to order parts I just stop by the local public library and look up the part numbers. The microfiche showed 2 options for the flange and also 2 options, depending on seal type, for the plate. The plate on my parts bike made me thing it was the flanged. Of course I couldn't be bothered to actaully check the bike I was actually working on. :oops: shame on me!

I checked the site where I got my fiche from and I don't see an '82 GS550ez, a few other 550's though.
 
Well...I got the seal in this morning so I shot home and replaced it. Went real smoothly this time because the old seal was so loose that it only took a small pit of prying with a small screwdriver to coax it out. I quickly took it out and pushed the new one into place. Didn't even drain the oil like I did last time. Seems to be holding up. I just drove the bike back to work and there was no sign of leaking oil. Yah!
 
congratulations

I've also got my seal now and I will try to replace it later this week. When I decribed what I did the first time for the dealer he told me I've must have had maximum bad luck. It is suposed that prying the old seal out is the most difficult part of the job, and that was quite easy, thanks to the tips in this thread.
 
So Finally

Now it stopped leaking. I noticed that the edges of the case were very sharp, and thats why my new seals kept tearing. I just rounded the edges a little with sandpaper and the new seal went in very easy. After my first ride there was a drop of black oil on the ground and I thought I had to give upp. I've however didn't see any more so the oil was surely from the chain (which I lubed at the same time when I had the case opened). Thanks for all the tips.
 
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