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How to release a frozen crankcase drain plug?

  • Thread starter Thread starter randyshipp
  • Start date Start date
R

randyshipp

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I went to change the oil last night in my new 1980 GS850GL, but I couldn't get the oil drain plug to budge. I'm pretty sure the 21mm socket was the right choice, but it's just stuck. Makes me wonder when the last time the oil was changed! Any tips on freeing that up?

On a related note, do you guys have a trick for elevating the bike a bit more than the center stand accomplishes? It's a pretty tight fit under there...certainly not enough room for me to get the socket on the drain plug AND have the drain pan under there at the same time. Seems like a mess waiting to happen.

Randy...
 
the 13/16ths plug socket fits well, make sure you are using a longish ratchet, a 3/8ths ratchet wouldnt have taken mine loose first time I took it out.

you can loosen it a couple turns before even a drop of oil will come out, use a big ratchet and extension to break it loose, then unthread it the rest of the way by hand with a drain pan underneath. if you are quick you can usually get away with a clean hand even.
 
Well... my first time giving feedback :)
I'm a beginning wrencher (so I'm sure you know more than I), ... I'm the one, that the amazing members on this site are educating so patiently.

The above advice sound right on... maybe try using Liquid Wrench on it for a while too...

But I did build a ramp set-up anyway... just so I could get a better look under there.

If I were more hi-tech I could email you pics, but I can barely even use this site, so I'll just try and explain it.

I'm sure the experienced guys here have better ideas... but I just wanted something to get the bike up a few inches... and I needed it to be simple and easy.

I made 2 ramps approx. 24" long. The one for the front tire is made from 2 - 2 x 6's... and the one for the rear is 2 - 2 x 8's. The bottom board of each ramp is approx. 24" long. And I used a circular saw to cut a 45 degree angle at one end of the 2 x 6 and the 2 x 8. Then I sandwiched the matching board on top, which I'd cut to approx 18"... and with the 45 cut at one end.

I screwed the boards together. And here's how I use it : Park the bike on level ground with the sidestand. Place the 2 x 6 ramp directly in front of the front tire, and place the 2 x 8 ramp directly in front of the rear tire.

Oh yeah, the one part I didn't have to saw or screw, I also got a 4 x 8 approx 15" (I'm not home right now or I'd look) long. That is what the centerstand will be on.

I have the 4 x 8 block down near my feet, but not in the way of rolling the tires up onto the ramp. Yes, be very careful with your balance, you don't want this 575 lb (whatever it is) bike falling over.

So with the 24" ramps in line, and directly in front of their respective tires, I then roll the bike back a foot or so... Then push it right up onto the ramps. It's now 3" off the ground(a 2 x ? is really about 1 1/2" thick, right), hold the front brake on. Now slide the 4 x 8 (rerally about 3 1/2" thick) under the bike where the centerstand will come down.

Put right foot on ctrstd. and move right hand to your grab rail, or whatever is suitable, stand down on the ctrstd and rock the bike up onto the stand.

This works easily for me, I'm 6'2" and 195lb. If I was way shorter and lighter I probably wouldn't have the leverage to do this, and, or, it would be harder to balance this bike 3" off the ground. So BE careful.

Anyway, there are probably better ideas. I just came up with this one on my own. It was easy, cheap and relatively quick. And it gets the bike up just enough to see a little better.

Good luck :)
 
I put a huge piece of threaded rod under the front motor mounts and hold them up with jackstands on either end. In back I use jackstands under the pivots of the centerstand. I use a come-along attached to the ceiling to hoist the front first, then the back.
 
Just re-read my "way too long" description and thought I should clarify one part. You know, make it longer :)

When I put the 18" board on top of the 24" board, and then screw them together, you (obviously) match up the squared off ends, not the 45 cut-off ends. That way, when you roll the bike up, front and rear together, you are only rising 1 1/2". Then you keep pushing 6" more, then get to the next ramp to give you the second 1 1/2" raise.

I also screwed a bumper, or stop board to the front of the front ramp... sticking up an inch or so. This way I can get the bike all the to the front without going off the end. I needed every inch to do this easily, but I also wanted it to be compact. And you can't have the ramps too long, or you won't be able to roll the bike back for a good running start.

Hope this isn't too confusing. It really was easy.
 
I jes close my eyes, and grit my teeth for a few seconds, pick up the bike and set it on my workbench. No really... I simply place a 2 x 4 about 24" long on the ground sideways in front of the rear tire. Crossways, ya know? I then begin to ease the center stand downward, and make sure that I get the stand pads as far to the front of the 2 x 4 as possible, then lift the bike onto the center stand in the normal fashion. This lifts the entire bike about 1 1/2" higher than normal. This is plenty of height for an oil change. Something else to consider, you're going to be draining at maximum about 4 quarts of oil, or one gallon. If you use a larger diameter drain container, it doesn't have to be as tall as you'd think. I found an old rubbermaid container of my Wife's that she'll never miss, and it works perfectly. I can easily get my hand, socket/ratchet under the pan
 
Good idea Dave,,, and even easier that the 2 ramps, and, the block of wood that I put together.

I don't know if it's important, but a couple advantages to what I did would be that:

1) The bike would be much easiler to rock back up onto the centerstand... Because the block of wood, I move into place under the centerstand, is the same height as the ramps that the tires are now resting on.

2) Also, when up on the stand, the bike is sitting at the same attitude, elevation, angle... you know... just like it would be on level ground.

3) It's 3" to 3 1/2" off the ground instead of 1 1/2".

Anyway, just my thought.

The single 2 x 4 would be easy though, maybe all you need sometimes.

Take care........
 
heat the drain-plug with a torch that will loosen it up.

will it hurt the pan? probably not, but i'm not sure i've never tried it on my bike. i've used that technique on a lot of cars though for transmission plugs and stuff like that...
 
Okay this sounds like a cross thread waiting to happen, so, if it does here is the cure, take the oil pan off, be patient in doing so, it might be on tight, if it is take a rubber malllet and hit it on several sides, then find a good pry area to help get it off, dont try to seperate it from the case by driving something in between, new oil pan then. Okay once the pan is off clean it and take it too a bike shop where they can installed a steel threaded adaptor in the oil drain oil, get a new drain plug and things well be better, just dont over tighten okay. might have to drop the exhuast to get too the pan, though worth it, other fixes like over size drain plugs are just bandaids,.
 
If it doesn't work, use force. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyways.
:wink:
Are you trying to turn the plug in the right direction? If you have the ratchet handle sticking out under the shifter side of the bike, you should be pushing/pulling the ratchet TOWARDS the front wheel. 8)
 
Get a half inch breaker bar and socket. Jerk quick and it should come loose.
 
oil drain plug

oil drain plug

I had the same problem with my GS1000E drain plug. I used an impact driver, the kind that you hit with a hammer. I laid the bike on it`s side and I used the impact driver until the nut began to loosen. I then set the bike upright on the center stand and removed the drain plug with a regular socket wrench. Good luck!
 
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