• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

How to - TRUE WHEELS - In GARAGE ???

  • Thread starter Thread starter getsum
  • Start date Start date
G

getsum

Guest
OK - I plan to put new tires on.

Before I do so I want to true the wheel and try and tighten up the spokes so that they all sound pretty close to the same.

WHAT IS : THE BEST / YOUR WAY
- to do this is a garage being a shade-tree mechanic like I am.?

Should I take the TIRE off before doing so ?

THANKS.
 
Its easier with the tire off. Spin the wheel until you find out exactly where the area is where its bent or kicks out. Say if its bent to the right a little bit in that spot. You would tighten the spokes on the left side of the rim. And vice versa. Only turn them fractions of a turn. Turning to much will straighten it but than will cause a hop in the wheel. Than you have to tighten the opposite side of the rim. Its takes some practice to get the hang of it.

Also, get a spoke wrench so you can turn the nipples. Pliers will strip them out eventually.

It might be a good ide to find a bicycle rim in the garbage or something, and than learn how to true on that. You dont want to make your rims worse than they are the first time you try to true a rim.
 
Make a truing stand (I've got one for bicycle rims). It should have a top true (for out of round, adjustable), and adjustable side to side trues. It's not real difficult. I could take a digital pict of my bicycle wheel truing stand, and it could be duped in a larger version for the motorcycle wheel. I never made one for my motorcycle wheels because they're not spoked. Definately buy a spoke wrench!!!!
 
Local shop does it for $25 front $35 rear...

Worth it - to make sure it is right ????
 
For $60, its definately worth it if the they can get them almost perfectly straight.
 
easy truing stand

easy truing stand

the forks on your bike can become a reall easy truing stand. just take a small screwdriver and zip tie it to on of the legs with the point almost touching the wheel. then just start spinning your wheel and watch the space between the screw driver and the edge of your rim. this will show you which parts are our, then tighten the spokes on the opposite side of the bulge, to 'pull' the rim back into place. you will want a spoke wrench they are cheap.
 
Let me also recommend....highly recommend....that you get a spoke wrench.

Do not even consider using pliers, as you are virtually guaranteed to do damage, and you will also give yourself a great deal of frustration.

This is one area where the right tool, (and it is an inexpensive one, at that ) is worth its price and more.
 
If you have made or use your forks as a trueing stand and have access to a travle indicator, (cheap at harbor freight) use it on the outside of the rim to show wobble. You can also use a erase marker and just touch it to the rim to show uneaveness. Do not forget to check the OD runout also. It took me about 2 hours, takeing my time to completely string a spoked wheel on an old CB 350. I took it to a dealer to have it checked and they told me that it was closer than they would get it. Total runnout on wobble was .003 and .007 on the OD. Get a spoke wrench.
 
I've built a couple of bicycle wheels. It is important to not only get the lateral and radial runout to the minimum, but also to get spoke tension as even as possible. That can be difficult. I've seen how long it takes an experienced wheel man, and how much more uniformly he can do it than I can. I'll do some occassional touch-up on my own, but every few years I take it to an experienced pro. A wheel that might fold is too damn dangerous.
 
You only have two of them and phsyics plays a great deal into the equation. There is a lot of lateral force being applied to a wheel that is out of true, at 75MPH....A LOT! Spend the money and have a pro do it! If it's going to fail, it will be most likely to do so in a high speed curve...just the kind of "dump" you want to avoid. :|
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top