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I dont know what else to do....

  • Thread starter Thread starter mottacycle
  • Start date Start date
M

mottacycle

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I finally got my bike running again carbs synced up and but i am blowing smoke like i turnned on my james bond smoke screen nooooooo good its white smoke and i got oil coming out the turnouts.... I can post a video tommorrow but im doin a compression test any ideas other than bad rings.... I did over fill the case just over the oil level window. Oooopppss but i am hoping that didnt kill my rings amd i have to take it all back apart again:confused::cower:
 
What's a turnout?
Too much oil will cause it to smoke if it is above the oil ring on the piston.
Pull your spark plugs and see if it is oil or gas. Flat black is gas and shiny black is oil
If it's oil it is either too much oil or a broken ring.
Did you have the cylinder off?
 
Smoke is white no black smoke and i rebuilt the head and rebuilt the carbs
 
It also back fires out the pipes and out of number two carb.... What did i dooo!!!!😰
 
It also back fires out the pipes and out of number two carb.... What did i dooo!!!!

Check that the valve timing is correct according to the service manual, with reference to TDC, the arrow marks on the cams and the number of links between exhaust and inlet cams.
 
Three reasons for possible smoking. Overfill oil. Check you site glass and adjust as needed. Valve stem oil seals weeping and causing smoke on start up and down shifts. Ring issues. Not much history give. Are these new rings? If not and you are just getting the bike on the road, check compression. Pull plugs, open throttle all the way and crank the engine which the compression gauge is in place. If compression is low, put ONE teaspoon in the cylinder to be checked and try the compression reading again. If it increases quite a bit, the rings are in need of replacement. At this point, you will need to get a manual to determine the piston to bore clearance spec. Then you will need to measure piston diameter carefully using a micrometer and then measure the bore in a number of locations as specified in the manual. When you measure bore diameter, you will be checking not only clearance but to see if the bores are oval. If the piston to bore clearance exceeds spec OR the bores are oval, new oversize pistons are in order with the corresponding rings and you will need to find a bike machinist to bore/hone and do the work to within spec.

First step is checking compression. How many miles on the bike? Many air cooled bikes like the rings renewed at about 30K miles but this number can vary GREATLY.
 
So this is the hiatory since i have owned it
New gel batt
New cables
New plugs
New coils emigo 3ohm
Ricks rectifier and stator winding
New transistored pickup plate
New ignition control from Suzuki
80 gs 850 head rebuilt at machine shop installed by me
Ground valves valve seats. New set of springs from forum member nessime.vitton valve stem seals valve clearence set at.004"
Veresah head gasket kit
Cleaned piston tops free of carbon
New valve cover gasket with new breather gasket
Rebuilt carbs with the o ring kit from forum source followed tutorial from ��cliff
Did break a float post yesterday when checkin float height booooo!!
122.5 main jet noticed when i was in there
Bench synced carbs then vacc synced on bike
Have new ex gaskets and mac 2 in 1 turnouts
Fiberglass resin seat pan led tail light.
Kenda cruisers front and back
Anyway thats all i can recall
I started this build almost a year and half ago hope that helps with more info��
 
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Goin to do another compression ✔ tonight when i get back from chico thanks for all the advice
 
Check that the valve timing is correct according to the service manual, with reference to TDC, the arrow marks on the cams and the number of links between exhaust and inlet cams.

I have checked cam plate position and timing three or four times now since the finish of the rebuild last jan
 
It won't help your smoking situation any, but the first thing I would do is get rid of the "Kenda cruisers". :-\\\

For me, I don't care if the mold nipples are still on the tires with a date code of last week, anything with "Kenda" will only last long enough to get the bike to where I can take the wheels off and change the tires. If possible, I won't even get on the bike, let alone fire it up and ride up the driveway to the shop.

Your preferrences may vary.

.
 
It won't help your smoking situation any, but the first thing I would do is get rid of the "Kenda cruisers". :-\\\

For me, I don't care if the mold nipples are still on the tires with a date code of last week, anything with "Kenda" will only last long enough to get the bike to where I can take the wheels off and change the tires. If possible, I won't even get on the bike, let alone fire it up and ride up the driveway to the shop.

Your preferences may vary
.
not my first choice but money was tight!!!!
 
For a dollar or two more per tire, the Shinko 230 Tour Master or the 712 Bias Performance tires are MUCH better.

OK, correction here. I just looked up prices at Tires Unlimited (other places might be cheaper).

Rounded to the nearest dollar and shown as Front / Rear prices:
Shinko 712: 51 / 62
Shinko 230: 61 / 75
Kenda Cruiser: 63 / 77

You could have saved a few bucks AND had better tires. :-\\\

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