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I don't know what to do

  • Thread starter Thread starter adam
  • Start date Start date
A

adam

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OK so I figured I would go through the carbs on my gs1100gz to try and find why I have a hanging throttle. I talked to an older buddy and he said a good cleaning would probably help. I thought I got them pretty clean and he said do it again. I opened up the carb cleaning series on the home page tab list, figured I would do it the right way, and got started. I got all the way to the part where you remove the air screws. Number 1 comes out fine number 2 and number 3 are stuck and number 4 will come out fine. So fare there are no o-ring tears or anything. But for some goofy reason the air screws are stuck and I cannot get them loose for anything. I have buggered them up a little, enough a screw driver cannot grab, So What do I do? I thought about a #1 extractor bit but then I thought before I do something I might regret I should probably ask the gsr world. Chances are someone has had this issue before. So please give me any lesson I can learn from.
 
For one, check the carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature. Lots more details than that older tutorial.

To get the pilot screws out you need a tight fitting screwdriver. Grind one down on a bench grinder if necessary. Then fill the tower with PB Blaster or similar and heat the carb body tower area with a propane torch or heat gun. Let cool and try to turn the screw both ways. If it won't come out use more spray oil and more heat. It may take a few cycles before the screw moves. If the slot is hopelessly buggered, take a Dremmel cutoff disc and cut down into the tower until you hit the screw and make a new screwdriver groove. Back to the heat and spray then until you get the pilot screw out.

Good luck

Oh, and check the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature to see if anything strikes close to home.
 
I have indeed read all the newbie mistakes and have realized that I am a newbie when it comes to carbs. I have never really done any of my own carb work and figured I would try, basically I am tired of waiting on my buddy to get time to do it for me. Will try the pb suggestions and see if it works. Thanks
 
Do not use an extractor!
Try some heat and penetrating oil first.
Work the screw by tightening and loosening. Back and forth ect....
If you lose all grip for a screwdriver cut a notch into the screw head with a cutting blade on a dremmel. I also cut off the port to the top of the screw since that's only there to cap so you can't alter them. Thank the EPA for that.
Oh yeah
DO NOT USE AN EXTRACTOR!!!!!!
 
I got some pb in the garage I will try tomorrow after church. Good thing I asked, an extractor is the only thing I could come up with. Someone has to teach us youngsters the right way to do things.
 
It also sounds to me like you might have an intake leak which can be caused by bad orings behind the intake boots. When you order your orings from www.cycleorings.com, include a set of the intake ones and look at replacing your boots as well. That way, you'll cover everything from the get go.
 
Checked for intake leak, sprayed a small amount of starter fluid at the base of the boots, and nothing happened. The carb boots are in really good shape and I coated them fairly heavily with Vaseline before spraying the starter fluid as to keep them form being damaged in any way. I do still have one air screw stuck, the number 3 carb, and am going to let it sit for a couple of hours before I try anything drastic, like cutting as mentioned in earlier responses. I check the other two sets of carbs that I have and the same on is stuck one both so the idea of replacing the whole carb is out the door.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
It also sounds to me like you might have an intake leak which can be caused by bad orings behind the intake boots. When you order your orings from www.cycleorings.com, include a set of the intake ones and look at replacing your boots as well. That way, you'll cover everything from the get go.
Click to expand...

Looks like for as cheap as this guy is selling stuff I might just order enough of everything for all 3 sets of carbs and rebuild all of them. Thanks for the link, I probably would of never found it.
 
Get the intake boot O-rings too. Spraying starter fluid is NOT a good check for intake leaks on GS bikes for some reason.
 
"I don't know what to do"

You have gotten good responses....such is the good community at GS Resources.

Please consider using an accurate title. For posts already made, use the "EDIT" button on the loew roght of your post to change the topic title.

For this post something like this might work -

"Air screw stuck - carb rebuild"

this does two things -

1) let's those browsing the forum know whats inside the post

2) let's those using the search function find this post for future help. As it is titled now, it won't come up in the search results so all this good knowledge will be lost.
 
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will order the new o rings just pulled the boots off and boots are fine but o rings are cracked on number 2 and 3. Also found a set of carbs that I forgot came with the bike when I bought it and number 3 is free and ready to swap out. Still going to order an o ring pack though.
 
I think that someone may have used loctite on the threads. Mine were so loose I was tempted to use it myself. Like everyone has said. Lots of heat and lots of pentrant but be careful with any flames. Even WD40 will catch fire if it gets hot enough.
 
Man I love having friends that own their own business. Got a hold of a buddy and he gave me the master o ring set he had in his garage at 7:15pm and also gave me a half gallon of carb dip.....sweet! Rushed home tore down the set I have been messing with along with the other set that came on the bike, minus the #3 carb with the stuck air screw, and put it all in. I followed the step by step by Nessism. I had all the o rings needed and also I called the owner of my favorite parts store this afternoon, and he has o rings that will fit my intakes. Tomorrow my brakes should be here and then all I have left to do is a vacuum sync and to get license plates and then off for a test run. So happy to finally be this close to being done, this year anyway.:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
Well done so far! Just a heads up on the O-rings you got from your buddy: the rubber that the "normal" O-rings are made of, is not resistant to petrol or high heat. They will not last long in the carb boots or fuel T-pieces.

You really need the special O-rings from Mr Barr at www.cycleorings.com for a longer-lasting repair.
 
adam said:
Thanks for the link, I probably would of never found it.
Click to expand...
If you "would [have] never found it", you did not read the directions.

Look again on page 10 of Nessism's tutorial.

If you did not notice that part of the instructions, I can only wonder what else you missed.
icon_shrug.gif



adam said:
Man I love having friends that own their own business. Got a hold of a buddy and he gave me the master o ring set he had in his garage at 7:15pm and also gave me a half gallon of carb dip.....sweet! Rushed home tore down the set I have been messing with along with the other set that came on the bike, minus the #3 carb with the stuck air screw, and put it all in. I followed the step by step by Nessism. I had all the o rings needed and also I called the owner of my favorite parts store this afternoon, and he has o rings that will fit my intakes. Tomorrow my brakes should be here and then all I have left to do is a vacuum sync and to get license plates and then off for a test run. So happy to finally be this close to being done, this year anyway.:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
Good luck, on all counts. :-k

First of all, most "master o-ring sets" are not the right compound of rubber for fuel or high-heat use that is required by these bikes.

Second, there is no way you are going to be able to dip all four carbs PROPERLY and have them ready tomorrow. Unless you have some really secret stuff, you can not follow the instructions on the can and get away with it. The instructions say to dip the parts for "15 to 30 minutes", but for a set of unknown carbs, we have found that "15 to 30 HOURS" works MUCH better (refer to page 48 of the tutorial).

I now have a better idea what else you missed.

.
 
Vitron O-rings are best. I'd go so far as to say they are mandatory for the intake pipes. Nitrial or Buna-N (same thing) are okay for the carbs. They are not as durable as Vitron but acceptable.

Cycleorings.com (Robert Barr) employs Buna-N O-rings for his carb kits and Viton for the intake boots. A full Vitron Carb kit is ideal, but not even Robert offers that.
 
Hi,

adam said:
will order the new o rings just pulled the boots off and boots are fine but o rings are cracked on number 2 and 3. Also found a set of carbs that I forgot came with the bike when I bought it and number 3 is free and ready to swap out. Still going to order an o ring pack though.
Click to expand...

Have you gone through all the tasks in the required maintenance lists in the "mega-welcome"?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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