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I think I figured it out. Can you tell the difference?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
Wait!! I missed the part about "what rubber plugs?" There are rubber plugs that go in the holes that the pilot jet scews go in. They block off the jets from directly sucking raw fuel straight from the bowls instead of thru the carbs passages designed for this. That for sure will cause a SERIOUS flooding of the cylinders and just may be a HUGE HUGE part of your problem!!! Please note part 39...PLUG.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1981&fveh=2112
 
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Are you kidding me!!! So the jet right above or below main is what where talking about? Which is the pilot jet? I just retapped them and definitely just saved me some money. There was the old jets still in there so they wouldn't tighten. But wow I'm almost positive there's no rubber o-ring...wait or are you saying there's a plug that fits over the jet where you unscrew it? Damn if that's all it was this whole time...
 
On CV carbs you have the big MAIN jet in the center and another hole off to the side that the pilot jet goes in and you tighten the jet down inside the hole..then it gets that plug. If you look at the bowl youll see a raised area that presses against the plug to keep it from falling out. Wish i had a set to take a picture of to post for you...Hows this..the BIG hole in the center is the needle jet and the main jet. The main jet screws into the needle jet..the smaller offset hole is the pilot jet hole and thats where the plug goes to cap off the hole..follow me?
 
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The hole you took those 4 mismatched jets out of is supposed to be plugged with those plugs...
 
Wow! How are you the 1st person to tell me this!!! Yep that plug is not there and never was when i got the bike...unbelievable. Thank you!!!
 
I was just reviewing your posts and i almost missed that question you asked..glad it got my eye. Many year bikes with cv carbs use them so they areny year model specific and they are all exactly the same part..heck even the Honda CVs use the same setup..they are cheap so its not a big deal. Post up a pic with you pointing at the hole with a pencil point and i will tell you if we are on the same page.
 
Look at the bowl and youll see a raised up peak coming up from the bottom of the bowl with a flat round top to it. Now hold the bowl up to the body and notice that flat raised area lines up perfectly with the pilot jet holes.
 
Get the plugs and pull the spark plugs and either clean them really good or get new ones. recheck all the float heights per the manual while the bottom ends are open. Be sure you have the right pilot jets in all 4 bodies... put them back on the bike and I would be willing to bet its a vastly different machine.
 
It is cheaper and here you go.
24b1cvc.jpg
 
Dude that the one!!! Youll have her doing whellies in no time now. Did ya look at the way the rise in the bowls lines up like i said? Set the mixture screw..in the middle of the carb throat on the top toward the engine..at 2 turns out from gently seated as a start point.
 
Look at that little brass tube sticking down as well. Thats called the bleeder tube. At the base of it where it goes into the carb bodies are some holes. Take a bread tie wire and poke them out. Poke out the tiny hole in the very end too. Spray the gunk out with some carb spray and compressed air. That tube recycle excess fuel in the pilot system back to the bowls..hence the name bleeder tube. Regap the plugs when you take them out for cleaning or replacement.
 
Whooooaaa! Awesome thank you. And I have it set at 2 turns out. Now the bleeder is the brass one to the right of my hand that reaches down into the bowl?
 
Yup...look right at the base where it goes into the bodies..will be some holes there..take a green dish scrubbie and clean the outsides of the tubes and youll see the holes easier. Poke those all out and the one at the end of the tubes.
 
Mr. Defore,

I'm not sure what the purpose of the holes in the sides of the pilot jets are. My friend rebuilt his Mikuni CVs from his Yamaha at the same time I rebuilt my GS ones. Mine had the holes on the side, his did not. Go figure.

You've posted several threads about getting this bike running. Members before us have written very detailed documents about disassembling, cleaning, and re-assembling the carbs. Those docs are available from BassCliff's site and from the GSR home page. Had you been following either of those documents step-by-step there's no way you would have missed the pilot passage plugs.

I'm not trying to give you too hard a time, but a lot of effort has gone in to making these documents - and that for a reason. Working slowly and methodically with attention to detail, particularly with the carbs and electrical, will achieve results far better than having to re-do the work over and over again.

If you cannot burn your gas entirely within two weeks, you should put a stabilizer like SeaFoam in it. If the bike last ran without stabilized fuel and you add it, you have to run the bike for a few miles to make sure the stabilized mix of fuel is in the carbs. There are two stations in Gainesville which sell ethanol-free gasoline. Due to the humidity in most of FL I would take the extra step to buy that whenever possible, as ethanol is hygroscopic and your carbs have vents to that humid air. You still should stabilize ethanol-free fuel that cannot be consumed in short order.

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=FL
 
Yea this past year has been a lil wild for me which doesnt make working on a bike that easy. But im slowly getting there. Wow that website is helpful. Thank you. Now at lets say advance auto parts is there and additive that you suggest? Like the lead stuff etc. Or just go with the sta-bil stuff?
 
And btw I'm a strong believer in seafoam and use it with everything.
 
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