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I tore into my vm carbs...

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
Hey Slyone, not sure if you're searched/read any other posts yet about the .03-.08mm clearance range, but the high side of the range is perfectly fine, some even go to .10 mm.

Last year I targeted the middle of the range, this year I targeted .08-10mm to see the difference, little more noise but spins easier.
 
Back to the carbs....
If you have the rubber coated fuel tubes, make sure they are really snug when they go in !
Or you'll do what I did Wednesday.. spent all day rebuilding and re-installing, just to find out the fuel "T" has gotten a little loose, and leaks like a pig. So now they have to come back out of the bike ..... again !!!
AND wait 4 days for parts from Z1. $#*& !!!!!!!
 
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SLYONE: I just went through this on my 79 850. A couple of notes..

Valves: You can rotate your crank with your kick starter... no need to wrench..


Carbs: My fuel rails/tees were the same sleeved ones as yours.. I put them back in and they fit snugly.. but they always leaked a bit after that. I purchased the new ones with o-rings... no sleeves. The o-rings that came with them had two that were too snug... maybe the channel was cut a bit shallow or maybe the oring was too fat... either way they would not go in... but the o-rings "F" from the kit were a bit smaller/thinner and they worked fine... So don't pitch the "F's" just yet...

tp
 
BTBARB...the bigger the gap..as you suggest .10 is OK..will also make the valves open that small amount less and for a shorter duration in relation to the intake and exhaust strokes..thus mening deminished performance actually. Secondly, they need to be adjutsed at the optimal .05 so that the buckets arent getting beaten against the tops of the valve stems so violently..all these factors, and probably others, need to be taken in to consideration. Now will it run with a .10 gap?? Yes, but the engine is in no way tuned to its optimum potential at that range. If its clattering then it is wrong...now way around that fact.
 
And a lttle oil or Vaseline on the "F" orings will help them slide into the fuel ports much easier..I would go with the tightest ones i can get away with if it was my carbs.
 
chuck hahn said:
And a lttle oil or Vaseline on the "F" orings will help them slide into the fuel ports much easier..I would go with the tightest ones i can get away with if it was my carbs.
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I totally agree... The tighter, the better... but it still has to go in the hole to work. I had mine lightly lubed and most went in snug and well... but a couple just would not go in.. they just deformed and rolled out... believe me, it wasn't meant to be. And the ones in the o-ring kit were still tight... and the kit is highly recommended as high quality material for this exact purpose, so I don't anticipate any issues swaping if needed.
 
The bodies arent machined real smoothly as you can tell. Maybe a burr or divet in the hole. Roll up some fine ( 800 or so ) emory paper and polish the holes a bit to smooth the casting out...then retry.
 
chuck hahn said:
Just take out the plugs and youll be able to see the valves..just position the doubled over zip tie between the valve and the valve seat then turn the crank from the BIG nut on the crank under the points cover. This traps the valve open and relieves the bucket so you can get to the shim. Have some tweezers or hemostats handy to help fish the shims out.
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This might help you vizualize the process.
ziptieplacement.jpg


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Thing i was thinking when I was doing the zip tie method is this::: Why double over the tie and do all that engineering to it...why not just make one bend about 1/2 inch up from the buckle and use that.
 
chuck hahn said:
Thing i was thinking when I was doing the zip tie method is this::: Why double over the tie and do all that engineering to it...why not just make one bend about 1/2 inch up from the buckle and use that.
Click to expand...
Because it is not quite thick enough to give you the clearance you need to remove the shim.

Now, if you have a really thick zip-tie, it might work.

Besides, when it's folded over, it's a bit of a safety feature. :-k
With repeated use, the zip-tie will eventually wear out and the tip will break off. :eek:
If you have it folded over and held with some shrink-wrap or tape, only one side will be cut, and nothing will fall into the cylinder.
icon_thumbsup.gif


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I was thinking along the lines of the thicker industrial sized ties. Not the "average" size like for fastening the wires to the bars type.
 
Hi guys, I moved this new valve adj. discussion over to maintainance. Please look, Thanks
 
chuck hahn said:
I was thinking along the lines of the thicker industrial sized ties. Not the "average" size like for fastening the wires to the bars type.
Click to expand...
I would still go for the safety of the doubled-over zip-tie. :o

Granted, it takes a while to cut through a zip-tie. If you use a fresh one every time, you will never have a problem. In my travels, I can't tell you how many valve adjustments I have done, or for how many GSers. As an experiment, I used the same zip-tie for as many valve adjustments as possible, to see how long it would last. Keep in mind that it is used the most on the first adjustment, where you have to check EVERY shim, change a few (sometimes twice), then check them again, so the zip-tie might get used 15-20 times. On any subsequent inspection, you should only need to use it for the two or three valves that might need to be adjusted, certainly not for all of them, again. I think I was on my sixth valve adjustment when I noticed the zip-tie had been worn through, so it is close to 100 times that it can be stuck in there and pinched.

Again, for a single user with a single bike, one zip-tie might last you a lifetime, I am probably at the other extreme for frequency of use. :D

.
 
I have the Motion pro tool as well..but honestly the zip tie is a must for on the road travels far as I am concerned...you can get them almost anywhere and most auto parts stores have good permatex or whatever to limp the cover gasket along. Most peole dont think about throwing the tool in the kit so learning the zip tie method is a great backup plan in my opinion.
 
I have a good share of my tools with me on my road trips, but I am carrying them around in my van. :o

Regardless, I do have "the tool", just to show my weekend "victims" what the proper tool looks like, and even show them the frustrations that I have when trying to use it. Then I break out the zip-tie and we get down to business.

Getting a zip-tie is no problem with my kit, either. I usually have a good assortment of over 200 available at most times. :D

.
 
I have the tool and have used it loads of times. The bucket has slipped only once or twice, and then merely as I was depressing the valve, not after it was locked down. This after numerous valve checks and adjustments.

Never understood all the hate for the special tool.
 
Steve said:
I have a good share of my tools with me on my road trips, but I am carrying them around in my van. :o

Regardless, I do have "the tool", just to show my weekend "victims" what the proper tool looks like, and even show them the frustrations that I have when trying to use it. Then I break out the zip-tie and we get down to business.

Getting a zip-tie is no problem with my kit, either. I usually have a good assortment of over 200 available at most times. :D

.
Click to expand...
:lol::lol: me too...now:rolleyes:
 
where did you get the "T" between carb 2 and 3? I looked on z1e and i only saw one for kz1000's? is that what you used? it was aluminum and came with o-rings. part #ZSM05-1010
 
Got it all back together today! Runs great in the garage:D can hardly wait for tomorrow...to many deer at night. I kinda was sloppy counting my pilot fuel jets and not as bad with the pilot air jets...but then couldn't find where I wrote them anyways:rolleyes: so I set all of them at 1.5 to 1.75 turns out? Prolly like to get those zeroed in exactly. Glad those fuel pilots under the carbs are reachable without having to remove the float bowls.
A Big Thanks to all who got me thru all this maintainance this weekend, now I don't have to worry about it for a long time...hopefully:lol:
 
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