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Idle problem

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Hi,

Hmmmm. :-k

Those stator number seem OK. Although, the resistance between legs on my stators have always been closer to 0.5 ohms.

Have you had your battery load tested? How old is it?

What is the voltage drop between the r/r output and the positive terminal of the battery? The lower the better (0.2v DC or less is ideal). Test at idle and at 4000 rpm or so.

Have you tested the voltage at the coils when cranking? It should be as close to 12v as possible. If it's closer to 10v then there's an issue with the battery or corroded wiring.

Perhaps the next time it dies and then turns over slowly you can try this: Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test

Probably not directly related but, have you done all the regular maintenance (clean carbs, adjusted float height, etc)? Are you using an inline fuel filter?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Hmmmm. :-k

Those stator number seem OK. Although, the resistance between legs on my stators have always been closer to 0.5 ohms.

Have you had your battery load tested? How old is it?

What is the voltage drop between the r/r output and the positive terminal of the battery? The lower the better (0.2v DC or less is ideal). Test at idle and at 4000 rpm or so.

Have you tested the voltage at the coils when cranking? It should be as close to 12v as possible. If it's closer to 10v then there's an issue with the battery or corroded wiring.

Perhaps the next time it dies and then turns over slowly you can try this: Igniter/Signal Generator/Coil Test

Probably not directly related but, have you done all the regular maintenance (clean carbs, adjusted float height, etc)? Are you using an inline fuel filter?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
No inline fuel filter, The coils and RR are only about a year old. The battery is a about 2 years old, Gel type. Have not cleaned the carbs in about 4years. The valves I checked today, were all too tight except 2, I need shims now. I will do those other checks. Guess I,ll have to ride the GS500F to work till the 1000 is fixed. Lucky I have a spare bike.:D The igniter, and Signal Generator are original equipment. I have also done the coil relay mod.
 
Last edited:
Not electrical

Not electrical

Ok, starts up eazy, runs like crazy idles fine warming up. After its hot, sitting, idle slowly drops till the engine dies. Then cranks slow as if the battery is low. Hard to start. But multimeter says the battery has 12-plus volts. Is there anything not electrical that would cause this ? Over heating ? :confused:
 
mike10 said:
Ok, starts up eazy, runs like crazy idles fine warming up. After its hot, sitting, idle slowly drops till the engine dies. Then cranks slow as if the battery is low. Hard to start. But multimeter says the battery has 12-plus volts. Is there anything not electrical that would cause this ? Over heating ? :confused:
Click to expand...
Just tested the battery was at 12.70, put the multimeter on it hit the starter it dropped to 10.70 then checked it at the solenoid dropped to 9.90. That's one problem.
 
mike10 said:
Just tested the battery was at 12.70, put the multimeter on it hit the starter it dropped to 10.70 then checked it at the solenoid dropped to 9.90. That's one problem.
Click to expand...
Almost forgot only 8.88 volt at starter motor. It cranked slower and slower as I went through the tests. Solenoid wire may need cleaned, starter wire is crap. Guess this has nothing to do with the Idle problem or being hot.
 
Hi,

Sounds like you're on your way to fixing one problem. Often these old bikes will have several problems that may seem inter-related. Keep up the good work, one thing at a time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Sounds like your one your way to fixing one problem. Often these old bikes will have several problems that may seem inter-related. Keep up the good work, one thing at a time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
so far, cam chain tentioner needed fixed, soleniod to starter wire needs fixed, valves need adjusted. I saw on here someplace I thought where someone was making Sig/igniter replacements like the DynaS. But I can't find it again. Do you know? The name was primco or primco can't remember.
 
Hi,

I'm drawing a blank here, but maybe you're referring to Pamco? I'm not familiar with them. You can also...

Check the sticky thread at the top of the electrical section of the forum.

Check the ignitor repair document in the electrical section of my website.

The Dynatech ignition is a popular replacement when the ignitor fails. It's much cheaper than an OEM part.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
mike10 said:
so far, cam chain tentioner needed fixed, soleniod to starter wire needs fixed, valves need adjusted. I saw on here someplace I thought where someone was making Sig/igniter replacements like the DynaS. But I can't find it again. Do you know? The name was primco or primco can't remember.
Click to expand...

My Dyna S is approaching 30 years old

It sounds like your tight valves are the primary problem
 
Yes valves

Yes valves

Big T said:
My Dyna S is approaching 30 years old

It sounds like your tight valves are the primary problem
Click to expand...
I just contacted ghostgs to swap some shims tonight....... Just a crazy question. Is the cam lobe position to check clearence just so you can check more than one at a time? It seems like if the lobe was just straight up you could check them OK, just one at a time. In an old thread this fella said his Climers Manuel told him to check them all lobe up.
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

I'm drawing a blank here, but maybe you're referring to Pamco? I'm not familiar with them. You can also...

Check the sticky thread at the top of the electrical section of the forum.

Check the ignitor repair document in the electrical section of my website.

The Dynatech ignition is a popular replacement when the ignitor fails. It's much cheaper than an OEM part.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
Yes, Pamco its for yamahas and Hondas. I keep thinking I should get a Dyna-S.
 
mike10 said:
I just contacted ghostgs to swap some shims tonight....... Just a crazy question. Is the cam lobe position to check clearence just so you can check more than one at a time? It seems like if the lobe was just straight up you could check them OK, just one at a time. In an old thread this fella said his Climers Manuel told him to check them all lobe up.
Click to expand...

Yes and yes.

Eric
 
Well some of your symptoms sound like what I've been experience with lack of ability to hold idle. Basically fixed with new o-rings through out including the intake boots. You mention the carbs haven't been cleaned in 4 years so I'd say they are due.

An additional issue you want to check is voltage at the coils. The battery sounds good but what is getting to the coils. I just had that problem too 12.5v at the battery and only 10.5 at the coils. I cleaned the fuse block and all the connectors up to the controls and it turned out the kill switch was the problem. As it cannot be dissassembled for a mechanical cleaning and the cleaning fluid baths didn't help I did the coil relay mod and got it back to almost full battery voltage, now running around 12.2v.

To have the bike run right you need, properly adjusted valves, clean and airtight carbs along with good spark. As Cliff says its not likely to be one issue alone but a combination.

Good luck with it.
Spyug
 
Dang IT

Dang IT

I thought I would recheck my valves again. Holy CRAP the .05mm gage was stuck to the .04mm. So I was checking with a .09mm that is why they were all so tight. So only 2 valves need adjustment. ....Have not checked volts to coils yet but I will. I have a spare set of carbs here all ready to go. I might put them on and clean the others. :)
 
Waiting for shims

Waiting for shims

I'm redoing some of my shoddy electrical work. while I wait. I bought a propane torch to solder with. Much better than waiting on my electric one to heat things up. I don't know if what I have done so far will fix my idle problem. The carbs on my gs500 have never been cleaned in 7 years and it runs great. When I built this bike GS1000 (It was totally disassembled basket case) I cleaned the tank and used Cream to coat the inside. The carbs were cleaned properly, I don't know if they need cleaned again already. I guess they might.
 
Valves

Valves

Valves are adjusted now, I put the cover back on. My starter wire to the solenoid had extra insuation wrapped on it, I took it off and found the wire had been cut in half and soldered back together. I have another one I'm going to use. Maybe part of my low voltage to the starter problem. I guess I will put it back together and see if I still have the Idle and slow cranking when hot problem. If I do, I will try this other set of carbs,and clean the ones on now. The other carbs had pin holes in 2 of the diaframs. I patched them with rubber adhesive and sprayed them all with a light coat of spray on rubber I have been wondering if they will work. When I blow air in the hole on the Aircleaner side the slides raise up and drop back down, but who knows.:confused:
 
Running Good

Running Good

So , I adjusted the valve. Only one needed it. Put on a starter lead that had not been cut in half. Got New starter button, old one was getting hot when I used it, I don't use the one on the handlebar. Cleaned up some crappy wiring I did. Resealed the Air box, PO had cut nice big slots in it. Maybe thought more air would make it go faster. It seems to be OK now. I did not get to ride far but got it warmed up good. Idles now around 1050rpm maybe the air box leaking was the Idle problem.:D
 
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