• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Idles fine - but not in the mid range

  • Thread starter Thread starter phrode
  • Start date Start date
Gentelmen, I think you may be confusing our new friend and maybe complicating his life.

Before you go buggering about with float heights and other esoteric carb mumbo jumbo Mr. Phrode dissassemble and properly clean the carbs in dip for a minimum of 24 hours. Dry everything off and blow through all passages with compressed air. Reassemble with the new o-rings and try again. If you are still getting the same issue then start playing with float height but I'm betting the heights are correct and have never been previously adjusted and are not your problem.

Now to get the full value out of your cleaning, you need to do both a static balance or synchronization and the details of how to are in the manual and also in the carb cleaning tutorial. After this you need to also do a dynamic balance or synchro which requires a 4 port vacuum guage (like the Morgan Carbtune). Without doing both your new carbs are not going to perform to their best.

Carb work is intimidating at first but it isn't rocket science. Just be organized, take your time and be thorough. About 60% of the carb related issues stem from plugged jets and dirty passages and the remainder from leaky o-rings letting in air.

Clean the carbs and stop the leaks and you'll find things will work fine.

Good luck with it and let us know when you have it sorted.
Spyug
 
phrode said:
All I got is basscliff's carb manual.

I checked it with a micrometer, but there is no way I can adjust that 0,5mm. What if I get it 2mm out of position?
Click to expand...

2mm is way too much out, you should be able to get them within 1mm of factory spec

see the manual for the correct measurement

.
 
think you may be confusing our new friend and maybe complicating his life
Click to expand...

Checking the float height IS a normal part of the rebuild process. Why go through all the trouble of putting the carbs back together, installing them on the bike only to find that the float height is not correct. It only takes a few minutes to check. Taking shortcuts is never a good practice. There will be no confusion if you take the time to understand what you are doing.
 
almarconi said:
Checking the float height IS a normal part of the rebuild process. Why go through all the trouble of putting the carbs back together, installing them on the bike only to find that the float height is not correct. It only takes a few minutes to check. Taking shortcuts is never a good practice. There will be no confusion if you take the time to understand what you are doing.
Click to expand...


Why take him through any of this, until you get an answer to the question regarding pods or air box.

Could be a jetting issue, not a maintenance issue.
 
Pods or airbox make no difference in terms of checking the float height. If you are cleaning the carbs, check the float height. I get the impression his airbox is damaged, he wants to run pods but does not want to rejet. Until the basic maintenance is done its hard to know where to begin.
 
I understand that, but my point is that starting off at float ht., or even cleaning the carbs, may be starting him at step 3 or 4 in determining the problem. By his description you only know that his bike runs lean. Step one is to find out more info. Ie. does he have pods without jetting changes. If not, then determine what other issues he may have...has the bike been sitting for a while? Did this issue just star happening? Does the petcock work? ...and we haven't gotten to the point of "take your carbs apart, buddy."

See what I'm getting at?
 
I understand what you are saying but he is not telling the whole story in this thread.He already has the carbs apart so he might as well clean them properly.
 
Carbs cleaned (no floats adjusted). It is runs "fine" now... So thanks for all the help :-) I just have a airbox problem left. 4 new air intake boots is on its way from the US to fix that (60US$ in freight!!!).

There is just one more question.

The air screw on each carb. Are they supposed to tightend and then 1 1/2 turn back?
How far should I turn them in clockvice? I feel Im going to damage the o-ring if I tight it too much.
 
Air ( Mixture ) screws are flat and dull on the ends, so there are no tips to break off like with the pilot screws ( bottom ones ).

So, you can tighten them down full..not with wrenching pressure but fully bottomed out ..and then back them out 1 1/2 turns.

Pilots on the bottom shopuld be right at 7/8 from very LIGHTLY seated at the bottom. Very gently turn them in and when they stop dont force them..they are at the bottom. Then back them out. All the orings should have a dab of grease or vaseline on them to let them slide easily and not snag as you do adjustments. If you didnt do this, you can still do them.


Wish you were in the states...I would send you my Colortune kit to fine tune each cylinder. Do a youtube search of the thing in action...it works wonders!!!
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't let adjusting the float height put you off too much if you need it. I found a little pair of German pliers built like Channel Locks that will clamp on that little tab but completely clear the pin tube and every other part of the float. It makes bending the tab real easy without risking twisting it. It's trial and error, but if you are gentle it is not real hard to learn. You just have to be patient and measure after every try. A slight bend goes a long way but you can get an exact measurement with a little patience.
 
Air ( Mixture ) screws are flat and dull on the ends, so there are no tips to break off like with the pilot screws ( bottom ones ).

So, you can tighten them down full..not with wrenching pressure but fully bottomed out ..and then back them out 1 1/2 turns.

Pilots on the bottom shopuld be right at 7/8 from very LIGHTLY seated at the bottom. Very gently turn them in and when they stop dont force them..they are at the bottom. Then back them out.
Click to expand...

His bike has CV carbs. They only have one screw on the top to adjust the mixture.
 
Didnt check to see what year..yes the 81 is CVs. so the lightly seated then out method would apply to them. But most advice from CV guys say that 2 out is the nstart point..then fine tune from there.

Ive only had one CV carbed bike years ago and at about 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 was its sweet spot. ( 82 1100 )
 
Ok. Thank you... I cant test until I get the new intake boots. So all get back then.

Thank you for the help :-)
 
Got the new intake boots today. Installed, now it is perfect :-)

Thanks to everyone involved in helping me. Couldnt be done without you...
 
Good deal, glad it's running well. Now you can ride. We love pictures, lots of pictures from beautiful places like where you live!
 
I dont have so many photos, but here are some. Not so much to see... All take some better photos this summer he he







 
Some pretty decent pics there looks like a very deep gorge and Man I bet all those sausages are excellent . I would have to try at least one of each type you have on the grill there .
 
DAMN DAMN DAMN!!!!...

I thought all was good now, but I still have some problems when using 2/4 throttle. It is way better, but still there is something :-(

Could it be the pilot screws? It idles perfekt to me, but...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top