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Idles great, no power under load

  • Thread starter Thread starter ttfraz
  • Start date Start date
T

ttfraz

Guest
Hey guys so I have my bike and it idles fine. I've synced the carbs. Did my best at dialing the pilot circuit. Cleaned the carbs. Set float height. Re jetted for the my my 4-1 exhaust and pods. Replaced the dyna ignition with a new one. (The old was faulty)

she he idles great and sounds good through all positions. I've done plug chops with the bike on the center stand with no load and the plugs are a nice brown.

The he problem is there is no power when the bike takes the street. Seem that way through all rpms. I'm trying to figure out if could be an doctrinal problem or a fuel problem. Any thoughts?
 
I have no advice after people put on pods, just the most basic thing: Before spending any money or work check the compression.
Trouble shoot check list for poor performance at all speeds:
Ignition: the 77 is an old style ignition system, so check all those components.
Fuel system: check all those components
 
ttfraz said:
I've done plug chops with the bike on the center stand with no load and the plugs are a nice brown.
Click to expand...
Not sure how you would do a plug chop on anything besides the pilot circuit while on the centerstand, but at least you can get that one done. Mainly, it would be reading idle setting only, not "just slightly above idle".


ttfraz said:
I'm trying to figure out if could be an doctrinal problem or a fuel problem. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I'm just trying to figure out what a "doctrinal" problem is. :-k

.
 
Maybe take it for a ride for a few minutes, then cut the throttle and check the plugs. See if you have one that's fouling or any other clues that might tell you whats going on in there.
 
Well I would let it run for a little bit with a fan at different throttle position just to try to get a ball park with plug chops. I know it's not the same as riding but I figured it couldn't be to far of. I've been through the the whole ignition system already. I just found I have a charging issue tho

not to mention I was riding it a month ago so I doubt the compression just gave out. But I could check it again. I also guess I could double check the coils now that it has the new ignition. I know it sparks but I don't know how strong. I doubt it's a fuel problem I've triple checked the floats and the fuel flows from the tank on prime no problem. It's kinda of hard to do actual plug chops when it's on the road because it's so weak
 
What exactly are the jets you installed?
Valves adjusted?
Compression readings?
Timing advancer working?
 
ttfraz said:
Well I would let it run for a little bit with a fan at different throttle position just to try to get a ball park with plug chops. I know it's not the same as riding but I figured it couldn't be to far of.
Click to expand...
To do plug chops that will give you enough information to adjust your jetting, you need to use 1)IDLE, to check the pilot circuit, 2) 1/4 throttle to check the transition to the needle, 3) 1/2 throttle to check the needles and 4) FULL throttle to check the mains.

There is simply NO WAY you can hold 1/4 throttle long enough on the centerstand to get a decent reading on the plugs.

FULL throttle? Forget it.

Remember, it's not engine speed that determines what carb circuit you are on, it's throttle setting. With no load (bike on stand), there is no way you are going to be off the pilot circuit, even at 8000 RPM.

.
 
i checked the valves they are good. Adjusted the timing. Static and with a light after.
I havent checked compression yet tho

amd my stick jets were 97.5. I upped them to 115 and needle up one position. Pilot is stock but fuel screws out to 1 3/4 and air at 1 1/2 big T

Steve I do realize that to do chops correctly it needs to be under load riding but I figured that having no load and testing different throttle position would at least get me in the same ball park
 
Way to far you think? Maybe if I was running nice k&n s but I feel like with the cheapo emgos that it was way to lean at stock
 
Type or quantity of filter used has virtually NO affect at idle. Even with different cams, pods, pipe, oversize pistons, etc., you would not have to go over 1 turn on the fuel screws, most likely, about 3/4 to 7/8 would work just fine.

If that is feeling a bit lean, turn the air screws in, not the fuel screws out.

.
 
Well I'll see if I can play around some more with the screw when I get home. But so u think that would even affect its power in all throttle positions
 
Steve said:
Type or quantity of filter used has virtually NO affect at idle. Even with different cams, pods, pipe, oversize pistons, etc., you would not have to go over 1 turn on the fuel screws, most likely, about 3/4 to 7/8 would work just fine.

If that is feeling a bit lean, turn the air screws in, not the fuel screws out.

.
Click to expand...


So so say if your running stock with an airbox and you take the airbox off your saying it won't affect the idle? I may be wrong but I feel like that changes the air flow and therefore the fuel mixture at idle
 
I have ran bikes, cars, atvs with the air box / filter disconnected (while I was working on them, not riding them that way) and it has never effected the idle mixture settings.
 
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