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idling on choke

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that fixed it along with adjusting the mixture screws. she screams now and no hesitation on the throttle. post a vid in a few days. #2 cylinder fires now, just had to warm up longer. carb probably helped a bit.
 
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great news :-D
that fixed it along with adjusting the mixture screws. she screams now and no hesitation on the throttle. post a vid in a few days. #2 cylinder fires now, just had to warm up longer. carb probably helped a bit.
 
i still think theres something wrong with # 2 carburetor. i think a passage may be plugged still. heres the spark plug.
2149004925_26ca90df3c.jpg
 
May want to do a compression test on #2. That plug dosent look like its seen much combustion.
 
i still think theres something wrong with # 2 carburetor. i think a passage may be plugged still.
First of all, let's make sure we're numbering the cylinders correctly: #1 is on your clutch hand side, #4 is on your throttle hand side. 8-[

So, if that is, indeed, your #2 plug, a prime suspect is the vacuum diaphragm in the petcock.
If that leaks, it allows fuel down the vacuum line, which will enrichen the mixture for that one cylinder.


.
 
i am numbering the cylinders right and i dont think the petcock is leaking because i got it new in october. the number 2 header gets hot after the bike runs for a bit.
 
i am numbering the cylinders right and i dont think the petcock is leaking because i got it new in october. the number 2 header gets hot after the bike runs for a bit.

Great to hear it's running better. I still think that your #2 pilot circuit needs further investigation!!
Have a Happy New Year.:)
 
i cleaned the pilot circuit again but it still doesnt fire right away. after it warms up for a bit, if i adjust the mixture screw for number 2 the idle speed moves with the screw. i cant find my compression checker right now, but once i get it registered, ill ride it to a mechanic and see if he can tune the mixture and check the compression. its been ridden for 8k miles so could the valves have worn that much?
 
its been ridden for 8k miles so could the valves have worn that much?
i doubt the the valves would go off after that milage to cause a major problem provided they had been correctly adjusted (so, yes, you do need to check them)
check the compression and if nr 2 is a lot lower then the other cylinders that'd be a good indication of where your problem is
 
actually, just remembred, i had the exact same problem with one of my bikes, where one cylinder would fire properly only with the engine warmed - it turned out to be a burnt valve
 
just got a new compression checker and all of the cylinders are at about 145 psi. well except number 3 which doesnt have any. i was greeted by knocking when i tried to start and ticking when idling. its a stuck valve. now i have a better excuse to do a valve check.

would a burnt valve have compression?
 
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i was talking about the #2 cylinder, so it doesnt have a burnt valve. the number 3 cylinder im 99 percent sure it has a stuck valve. im goin to take the valve cover off and check the clearances.
 
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