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ignition coils?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gruntedGS1100
  • Start date Start date
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gruntedGS1100

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been trying to get this bike done, but work has been tearing my life of happiness apart!!! :mad:

anywho, i redid the carbs, fouled a set of spark plugs out, got a new set in, 2 are caked white, ones caked black, and ones coffee perfect! ive been getting shocked by the spark plug wires, and tried wrapping them in rubber electrical tape to stop the arc. im assuming i need new ignition coils.

im also having other odd problems when its running. the RR gets insane hot, and the battery light is on. I havent ridden the bike yet because of the spark plugs, and i've heard that the stator and what not dont run untill after 12 mph?? can someone help me out with this?
 
What bike is this- gs1100 ? (HINT- put in signature) and how did you " redid" carbs? Where is the arcing coming from- at coils or plug wires?
If your R/R is getting real hot real quick, it likely has short internally or has no where to dump stator output- head for the charging tests.
12 mph???? by about 1500 rpm, a good charging system can supply all bikes electrical needs.
 
I assume we're talking about a 1100 based on your username, but no idea what year...

Sounds like you need new spark plug wires, are yours permanently attached to the coils, or can you replace just the wires?

The charging system functions at any speed, but puts out more power at a higher RPM. You should read through the stator papers and test the charging system. http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm
 
Yeah its an 82 GS1100E, I replaced all needs jets and what not on the bottom half of the carb;

And, as for the ignition coils, the spark plug wires are glued in, and the wires basically zap you when you try to remove them while its running(did this to see if all cylinders are firing)

I reconnected a S-ton of wires, using the service manual. The previous owner had put a aftermarket starter on it, and I now have four loose wires, none that coincide with the charging system.

I had checked the RR through the service manuals instructions, and got the correct amount of ohm resistance, and I havent been able to check the stator because the bike wont reliably stick to 5ooorpm(backfires, putters, dies in rpm, chokes)
 
If you're getting shocked when trying to pull the plug, it could just need new boots. From what I've heard, they're pretty cheap to replace.

If they're glued in, you probably still have the stock coils and wires. After 30 years next to a hot engine, the insulation may be starting to crack on the wires.
 
I have a decent set for sale from a 1000, going cheap will probably work for you. Cheap way to give them a try. They are on Ebay currently due to lack of interest here.

You can get the OEM wires out of your coils but it's about a 50/50 chance of digging them out or having them snap off in the coil rendering it useless.
If you get them out there is a spike inside, simply slide the new wire in there & add a blob of silicon around the top to seal it - job done.

I have also seen people add new boots & cover the old wires in heatshrink, not my favourite idea.

As well as replacement NGK boots www.z1enterprises.com also do a splicing joint which is another option.

There is a set of Accel coils in the For Sale section that might also work for you too..

:)
 
been trying to get this bike done, but work has been tearing my life of happiness apart!!! :mad:

anywho, i redid the carbs, fouled a set of spark plugs out, got a new set in, 2 are caked white, ones caked black, and ones coffee perfect! ive been getting shocked by the spark plug wires, and tried wrapping them in rubber electrical tape to stop the arc. im assuming i need new ignition coils.

im also having other odd problems when its running. the RR gets insane hot, and the battery light is on. I havent ridden the bike yet because of the spark plugs, and i've heard that the stator and what not dont run untill after 12 mph?? can someone help me out with this?

1) I am not much of an engine tuner gear head to talk about reading color of plugs, but I think coffee color is not what is best. But then again, I dont know what you think is good coffee either har har har

2) getting zapped by touching the wires doesnt need new coils, in fact it shows the coils are working. It says more about the wires and/or the caps. The stock wires are part of the stock coils, not really meant to replace just the wires, but as mentione by others, it can be done, but is subject to difficultys. You might try the replacing the caps.

3) R/R does run hot, excuse me, ... the stock R/R will run hot, especailly if mounted on side of battery box. Real question is if charging system is working. Measure battery voltage at 4-5thou rpm to determine that.

4) stock charging system doesnt put out much agt all at engine idle speed, and only puts out a little as say 2000 or 2500, needs to be up about 3000 b4fore puts out much. Shopuld be putting out 13.5 or more at about 4000.
 
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Redman is right on here.
May i add tho,that old engines like these,i had to replace valve seals.they do dry up,cheap but quite a job,not difficult just tedious.
For some reason on my bike with pods n stage 3 my float levels had to be raise=fuel level dropped.it ran way to rich in the low throttle range,i tried stock fuel level and things just did not work right.
Are you running stock?or stage 3?
Find a honda R/R,world of difference,does not run hot at all.Cheap on the bay,i took mine off my brothers parts bike for free hehe.
 
im running a stock carb setup no jets or anything, just pods. and theyre off for right now until i can get the bike running right.

cylinder 2 spark plug has no spark, i put a screw driver in it and checked it against metal and had no arching, is there a way i can check them for resistance and what not?

Salty Monk, the coils you have, do they work, and have good wires etc etc?

I did wrap the wires with rubber electric tape, and it helped big time, but this freakin bike is a mystery wrapped in 50 other mysteries!

Redman, lol, from my experience, a light brown is what is considered a good color for spark plugs, its getting a good burn.

Its hard to get the bike up to 4-5k rpm because when the throttle is lifted that high, it chokes and dies!!!! :confused:
 
ok,First off,Good luck getting it running with open carbs and no stage 3 kit in it,not good for the engine,Will not runn even near right.
If u run pods u HAVE TO rejet with the kit with the needle.No question at all about that.
Many have tried many have failed.
Make sure you have power at the leads going to the coils.if propper power there,Then suspect tha coil is bad.
It chokes and dies because it is not getting near enuff fuel with the open carbs.Hook up the air box if u have it,if not,Get the dynojet kit.even with larger mains it will never run right without the dynojet needles.
Use the search function,there are baselines for this setup in many many threads.I run BS36 carbs so i do not remember the right setup if u are running stock carbs with the 1100,which would be BS34's
 
Newbie Mistakes thread linked here...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=171846 Some appropriate information to help you is contained within.:)

Regarding the coils, YES, the wires can be removed and replaced. Sometimes they pull out clean, some times not. If not, you can take a pick and dig out the part stuck in the coil. As mentioned by Salty_Monk, there is a spike in the bottom of the recess. Once you get the wire out, replace it with a fresh 7mm wire. If you use solid core wires, get new NGK plug caps. If you replace with supression wires and regular caps, that's fine also.

Good luck
 
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Yes, the ones I have work and don't have any splits.
I would try replacing your own first.

If you screw up one then I have one from a set where I also screwed up one.... It's proven to work. :) yours for not much at all... :)
 
my bike only came with half the original intake, which lead me to the pods. does anyone have the 2nd half of the original intake nearby in NY? or wanting to ship offhand?

I was planning on doing jets later on when i finish riding the bike for a season or so. the pods can wait, that i dont mind.

Ill look into the wire and the ignition coils to see if i can get them out easily.

most likely just gonna end up getting new coils. they are original ignition coils!:o

also, for future reference which carb kit is a good one?
 
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I have some coils,maybe some boots.I have gs1150 air box setup.not sure if it will work.Have to go one way or the other tho.I havn't been able to ride for almost a week.RAINING.where was it when we needed it?
 
I have some coils,maybe some boots.I have gs1150 air box setup.not sure if it will work.Have to go one way or the other tho.I havn't been able to ride for almost a week.RAINING.where was it when we needed it?


I WAS SAYING THE SAME THING! this rain was ridiculous, it ruined my target practice, and my driving.

PM me, maybe we can talk about meeting up or what not?

Im unsure of the air box fitting, but id definitely try it. I have the half that goes to the carbs, just not the second half that contains the filter.

and do your coils work? lol. im dying to get this thing runnin!

And thanks again 51
 
Yeah definitely trying to get something going, with good wires, something i can plug and play with.
 
You will need to tackle one issue at a time. If the wires shock you when you touch them, it is either a leaky wire or cap. If you dig the wires out of the coils you can replace them with either Dyna wires or standard automotive wires down at your local auto parts. I chose the Dyna wires from Z1Enterprises, but universal 7mm automotive wires work just dandy as well, for about the same price. They are suppression wires, so no special caps or plugs are required.
Once that is fixed,l move on to the next issue. Leaky wires or caps is absolutely no indication of a bad coil.
Just as a thought, it is always a good idea to get someone else to test the wires for you. It may cost you a beer afterward, but I find the price worth the experience. Especially if you get it on video. ;)
 
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