Ignition fuse blew

[timebombprod]

Started bike up today, all was going well, idled good, revved nicely and would go down pretty smoothly aswell. So after checking multiple times for a hanging idle from about 3-4k I gave one good rev just to Make sure it really isnt sticking, bike went to a out 5-6k and then everything turned off, then back on, and I saw a "light" go off in the fuse box and well, the ignition fuse blew.


What can be the causes? Dyna S is working properly, coilpack, leads, and plugs are all fine and well withing spec. I replaced connections yesterday and one wore, and I dont have that intermittent short anymore so most is solved, but that darn fuse blew.

Coukd the R/R be to blame?

 

[Redman]

High idle not related to anything blowing a fuse.

R/R failing and shorting to ground usally blows main fuse. And fuse will blow again as soon as replace the fuse.

 

[timebombprod]

High idle not related to anything blowing a fuse.

R/R failing and shorting to ground usally blows main fuse. And fuse will blow again as soon as replace the fuse.

Its my ignition fuse blowing not the main, any ideas?

 

[Redman]

You asked if R/R could be to blame for the IGNition fuse blowing. I will say probably not because R/R failing usally blows the main fuse.
But if the fuse blows again, especially if it blows right away, as a test you can disconnect the r/r (bike will still run, just not charge battery) to see if fuse doesnt blow then.

IGNition curcuit goes to the ignition coils and the ignitor. And the the kill swtich and the startere button-solenoid, but I dont suspect the starter button-solenoid since didn blow when pushing the button.


You havent said if fuse blows again right away, or if only once in a while. You did say at mid-higr rpms it blew once, but not anything about after replacing the fuse.

If fuse blows again every once in a while, I would suspect a frayed wire some where ground out to the frame. THe Org/Wht is the ignition circuit. Higher rpm could cause it just bye more vibration. Have heard of corrsion and or such by the kill switch. Have heard of frayed wire (org-wht) unnder tank along frame near the coils.

 

[timebombprod]

You asked if R/R could be to blame for the IGNition fuse blowing. I will say probably not because R/R failing usally blows the main fuse.
But if the fuse blows again, especially if it blows right away, as a test you can disconnect the r/r (bike will still run, just not charge battery) to see if fuse doesnt blow then.

IGNition curcuit goes to the ignition coils and the ignitor. And the the kill swtich and the startere button-solenoid, but I dont suspect the starter button-solenoid since didn blow when pushing the button.


You havent said if fuse blows again right away, or if only once in a while. You did say at mid-higr rpms it blew once, but not anything about after replacing the fuse.

If fuse blows again every once in a while, I would suspect a frayed wire some where ground out to the frame. THe Org/Wht is the ignition circuit. Higher rpm could cause it just bye more vibration. Have heard of corrsion and or such by the kill switch. Have heard of frayed wire (org-wht) unnder tank along frame near the coils.

My bad, didnt read it right. This is the first time the fuse has ever blown so I'm not sure how often it would happen.

The wires that run to the coils arent the best looking, so I will just run new wires for it and hopefully that makes the difference.

I have cleaned the killswitch, and no it didnt happen when pressing start button lol.

Thankyou!

 

[Redman]

.

The wires that run to the coils arent the best looking, so I will just run new wires for it and hopefully that makes the difference.

.

Wires can "look bad" but as long as dont see areas where insulation is worn away, and dont see copper strands anywhere, then dont need to think could be causing a short to ground somewhere. Do Look especially close to where the wire runs next to an edge of something on the frame, could be just one little spot where insulation worn thru right there (and some vibration or bump makes it touch the metal frame).

If fuse fuse blew only once and doesn't repeat for a while, could be be the fuse fatigued with years of service.

 

[timebombprod]

Good news, aswell as bad.

Good news is, I got to ride and the fuse didnt blow this time! I do not have an intermittent short anymore as far as I can hear or tell, and for the most part my hanging idle has left.

Bad news....my bike went to twin mode again during the ride, making me have to keep pressure to throttle so I dont have bike shut off, my right side turn signal went, and it's the flasher, and my bike popped profusely. Jeez louise

The thing about it going into twin mode, o did a spark test about 10 minutes after shutting the bike off and bringing it in, and what do you know, all 4 plugs sparked.
I did notice 2 and 3 had coilplugs noticeably hotter than 1 and 4s coil plugs.

Heres my thought, something is making the wires get too hot, if this sounds wrong or neverhappens, let me know.

 

[Redman]

Good to hear that the IGNition fuse held. Gives some idea that not going to be a repeat problem. But maybe need more time-miles befpore fully say that.

About your Ingition problem (which is more the subject of your other thread):

. .
.... my right side turn signal went, and it's the flasher, .......

Tell us more. You mean the right side didnt flash... did it used to?
Reason I ask is that sometimes the flashers not flashing is the first indication of low voltage, because of charging system problems, and low voltage can also effect the ignition system (especially if are also loosing a volt or two from battery to the coils). So check battery voltage at 4k rpm and check at coils too.

 

[wymple]

It happened to me years ago on my 850. The hot wire to the coils had shorted out. I ran a new one

 

[timebombprod]

Good to hear that the IGNition fuse held. Gives some idea that not going to be a repeat problem. But maybe need more time-miles befpore fully say that.

About your Ingition problem (which is more the subject of your other thread):

Tell us more. You mean the right side didnt flash... did it used to?
Reason I ask is that sometimes the flashers not flashing is the first indication of low voltage, because of charging system problems, and low voltage can also effect the ignition system (especially if are also loosing a volt or two from battery to the coils). So check battery voltage at 4k rpm and check at coils too.

Yes it used to, not anymore just get a buzzing. Ordered a new stator going to fix what's going on, my bike runs like crap low end but eventually picks up on higher side, also runs on twin mode when riding but sparks on all 4 every time I do a spark test. So yes I'm not getting the right amount of voltage more than likely.

I have done a charging test and my stator is gone but I didnt realise it would affect thisnmuch.

 

[timebombprod]

Update, and update.

Stator was the problem, I did get my turn signal back.

Back to the ignition fuse, after installing the new fuse nothing happened, and I thought I was fine, well the bike does not want to start and it throws loud pops sometimes when i would try to get it up.

Little did I know, the dyna S ignition blew.

It was timed correctly, as far as I could tell (test light would go off when I opened advance all the way at the fully advanced mark and would shut off right after release, timing light would go off when engine was spinning through the T and F mark, and go away once past that) and it was also hooked up correctly ( white to white, red to orange and white, black to black and yellow, connected from where ignitor used to plug into the coilpack wires)

What would cause it to blow? I know it's been said many times but I get consistent spark on all 4 sparkplugs making me think those wires that lead to the coilpacks should be fine. What should I look at and inspect?

 

[tom203]

?it's been said many times but I get consistent spark on all 4 sparkplugs making me think those wires that lead to the coilpacks should be fine?

I still have little faith in your ignition coils. Maybe one shorts out when warm, frying fuses, etc.
I?d get a replacement set...there?s plenty on eBay ...or get a dyna set to match if you feel extravagant.

 

[timebombprod]

?it's been said many times but I get consistent spark on all 4 sparkplugs making me think those wires that lead to the coilpacks should be fine?

I still have little faith in your ignition coils. Maybe one shorts out when warm, frying fuses, etc.
I?d get a replacement set...there?s plenty on eBay ...or get a dyna set to match if you feel extravagant.

Gonna get new stock OEM ones possibly. Have a whole new ignition system at this point, getting the ignition serviced by dyna.


Okay so, is there supposed to be any other setup than hooking up the ignition wires to the old plug where the ignitor once plugged into or do i need anything else to be done? Would where I plugged the wires into be considered a healthy 12volt spot for the ignition to be hooked up to

 

[tom203]

I?d tap into the orange/white wire the feeds both ignition coils with +12 volts

 

[timebombprod]

I?d tap into the orange/white wire the feeds both ignition coils with +12 volts

That means connecting battery to them by wire? Or does that mean they have 12 volts already

 

[tom203]

That orange/white wire feeding coils (and also stock ignitor) comes from kill switch...it?s protected by the 10 amp ignition fuse

 

[timebombprod]

That orange/white wire feeding coils (and also stock ignitor) comes from kill switch...it?s protected by the 10 amp ignition fuse

Would it be considered a 12volt power supply

 

[timebombprod]

Which dyna coilpacks am I meant to get?

 

[tom203]

If you are sticking with the dyna ignition...might as well go for their 3 ohm ignition coils. But stock Suzuki 4 ohm coils would work too....

 

[timebombprod]

If you are sticking with the dyna ignition...might as well go for their 3 ohm ignition coils. But stock Suzuki 4 ohm coils would work too....

I got the dyna coils