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Ignition Switch Stuck Solid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adler
  • Start date Start date
A

Adler

Guest
My ignition switch has always had trouble getting out of the lock position so, looking for something to do, I took it off to see if I could lube it up or anything.

I sprayed some lube into it and worked it around then I put it in lock, and took it out a few times, it wasn't easy any of those times. Then I put it in one more time.... and I can't get it back out. Has anyone successfully taken one of these apart?

The search feature reveals a few people asking the same thing, no one seems to have dared...
 
I have had two different OE locks do the same. I think you need a lock smith.
 
Adler said:
My ignition switch has always had trouble getting out of the lock position so, looking for something to do, I took it off to see if I could lube it up or anything.

I sprayed some lube into it and worked it around then I put it in lock, and took it out a few times, it wasn't easy any of those times. Then I put it in one more time.... and I can't get it back out. Has anyone successfully taken one of these apart?

The search feature reveals a few people asking the same thing, no one seems to have dared...
Click to expand...


There is a roll pin in the body of the lock. You could possible punch this out and extract the lock mechanism. I had one of these go bad on me but never boterhed to try and fix it.
If you remove it fromt eh bike and invert it can you spritz some lube into the keyhole to see if any dirt binding the key can be flushed out?

Oh and wiggling helps. The key not you.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
There is a roll pin in the body of the lock. You could possible punch this out and extract the lock mechanism. I had one of these go bad on me but never boterhed to try and fix it.
If you remove it fromt eh bike and invert it can you spritz some lube into the keyhole to see if any dirt binding the key can be flushed out?

Oh and wiggling helps. The key not you.
Click to expand...

I saw those roll pins and Ive been trying to get them out. They can't be punched out because they dont go all the way through. Im looking through my inventory of assorted tiny screw to see if I can find one the I can twist into it and yank out.
 
GOT IT!!!

Im looking at the lock cylinder, and I have confirmed that IT is the problem, not the lock bar on the bottom half.
 
no love
used a dremel with a diamond bit
was doing fine but snapped the thing off
the only way i see is to keep trying that or else buy a new lock

you would eventually remove the material but will that get the lock part free.?
 
The first thing to remove is the clip on the top. Be careful because this is old plastic. I took 3 small nails and I slipped the first under one of the fins then the second under the next and the third under the one following that. Once the third nail is in, you can remove the second, carry on like this until the top clicks off.

On to the roll pins...
The trick to getting the pins out was to find a screw small enough to JUST barely fit into the roll pin. I didn't have such a screw, so I used one that was too big. It worked on the first pin, but sustained too much damage to work on the second. The second pin I used a drill bit to widen and when I pulled the drill bit out, the pin came with. The third pin I drilled out then used a tiny screw to get the rest out.

So now that its open, you have this...

P1020673.jpg


and this...

P1020674.jpg


To remove the cylinder from the outer sleeve, you need to push in on the big flat tumbler on the end (on the left of the next pic). Then the whole inner piece should simply slide right out.

P1020676.jpg


The reason this has failed is because the tumblers have worn down over the years and no longer align perfectly with the cylinder as you can see in the picture above. This is especially true of pin number 2.

Often this failure will only happen when the lock is put in "Park" or "Lock". The reason for this is that the piece of the outer sleeve that blocks the lock from turning when the incorrect key is inserted wears down with the tumbler creating grooves in the wall of the outer sleeve.

P1020678.jpg

P1020679.jpg


Since the "Park" and "Lock" positions are so rarely used, they do not have the grooves and will show the condition of the lock more precisely.

Now if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this... I'm all ears.

Edit: Ideas for fixing this..
1. Remove the tumblers (not simple) and replace them with new ones from a locksmith.
2. Make a new key that fits the worn out tumblers.
 
Last edited:
Hey I just noticed the logo on the lock is the same as the one on the petcocks.
nice work adler.
 
Another potential solution is to grind down the top of the wafers that are protruding, this will make the lock ALOT easier to pick. Honestly though, who steals out bikes???
 
Alrighty! My lock is now working again! I took a file to the offending edges of wafer tumbler and its smooth as can be.

Im looking for alternatives to the roll pins, maybe Ill put screws in there instead.
 
Adler said:
Alrighty! My lock is now working again! I took a file to the offending edges of wafer tumbler and its smooth as can be.

Im looking for alternatives to the roll pins, maybe Ill put screws in there instead.
Click to expand...

Since you basically just drilled out the old roll pins, couldn't you just use a larger roll pin to replace the old ones?
 
posplayr said:
Since you basically just drilled out the old roll pins, couldn't you just use a larger roll pin to replace the old ones?
Click to expand...

I could probably use the old roll pins, they just have a wider ID. I just don't like how hard they were to get out. In 30 years Ill want to open this again! :rolleyes:

Where does one go to buy roll pins anyways?
 
Adler said:
I could probably use the old roll pins, they just have a wider ID. I just don't like how hard they were to get out. In 30 years Ill want to open this again! :rolleyes:

Where does one go to buy roll pins anyways?
Click to expand...

We have a local place in SB called specialty tool that has nearly any think in the way of fasteners. I'll go by there today.

How big can you overdrill without damaging anything? Anything less than 1/4" OK?

It would also be nice if it was just drilled all the way through then you just use a punch to knock the pin through.

here is a reference

http://www.engineersedge.com/roll_pin.htm
 
Last edited:
Can you leave enough pin sticking out of the housing to grab with pliers later? I'd be afraid of using screws, since they could well vibrate out. Then we're looking at thread lock in the vicinity of the lock mechanism.
 
Hi guys:

I just took mine apart. It was old and worn out so it was just a bit of fun taking it apart and nothing more.

The GS 550 type has a lock mechanism barrel that does not come apart.

After I got my roll pins gouged out I discovered this.

I wonder Adler, if you can steal the lock innerds form one for your helmet locks the replace anything worn ignition switch.

Anyways do not bother with the 550 from 85 or any of it's siblings as you cannot get the thing apart even after removing the lock form it's housing.
 
JEEPRUSTY said:
Hi guys:

I just took mine apart. It was old and worn out so it was just a bit of fun taking it apart and nothing more.

The GS 550 type has a lock mechanism barrel that does not come apart.

After I got my roll pins gouged out I discovered this.

I wonder Adler, if you can steal the lock innerds form one for your helmet locks the replace anything worn ignition switch.

Anyways do not bother with the 550 from 85 or any of it's siblings as you cannot get the thing apart even after removing the lock form it's housing.
Click to expand...

Did you see the rest of my posts? I got the core out and filed the tumblers to fit better. The lock is now less secure and working.
 
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