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Ignitor or signal generator problem???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Swim_fan02
  • Start date Start date
tkent02;2029495 Swapping plug wires would just be a temporary test. He can find the true problem later.[/QUOTE said:
But he's adamant (maybe overly) that he didn't switch stuff doing his painting (see other post); two wrongs might cancel, but three...?

And what happenned to "drive fast, you might need to be good at it someday" ?
Click to expand...
 
I have the full wiring diagram and reviewed it extensively and the coils are wired in properly. I made sure of that because that's another thing I wanted to accomplish while the bike was apart, was to make sure there was no "jimmy rigged" wiring anywhere. Surprisingly everything was wired properly.
 
Swim_fan02 said:
I have the full wiring diagram and reviewed it extensively and the coils are wired in properly. I made sure of that because that's another thing I wanted to accomplish while the bike was apart, was to make sure there was no "jimmy rigged" wiring anywhere. Surprisingly everything was wired properly.
Click to expand...

News flash, "If it doesn't run, then something is wrong"

Do you know how to static time?

Try it.
 
Swim_fan02 said:
Surprisingly everything was wired properly.
Click to expand...

Almost everything maybe.

Could the signal generators be swapped on the ignition plate? Could you have gotten cylinder #1 and cylinder #2 mixed up? Ryxdixia is a bitch.
 
tkent02 said:
Almost everything maybe.

Could the signal generators be swapped on the ignition plate? Could you have gotten cylinder #1 and cylinder #2 mixed up? Ryxdixia is a bitch.
Click to expand...

Maybe swapped valve stem covers......
 
Well good news guys. I got her started. I went through the wiring AGAIN and found that the coils were wired opposite. Lol. Flipped them around and started right up. Now that she is started I took her for a little ride and came back to adjust the idle screw and when it seems that I got it dialed in I blip the throttle and it revs really high and holds there till I back off the idle screw and when I do that she stalls out. Any ideas?
 
Why am I not surprised? Anyways, your "hanging" idle is very likely due to intake leak- maybe leaky boots, bad o-rings at head interface, missing o-rings on idle mixture screws
 
I know I was adamant on it being right. I apologize for my stubbornness. Where should my idle screws be at? I wanna say its 2-1/2 turns. Is that right? Thanks everybody for all the help and advice.
 
2-1/2 turns is in ballpark. IIRC ,You put new boots on -the ones on engine side ?? how about the o-ring at boot/head interface? It doesn't take much of a leak to cause hanging idle.
 
tom203 said:
2-1/2 turns is in ballpark. IIRC ,You put new boots on -the ones on engine side ?? how about the o-ring at boot/head interface? It doesn't take much of a leak to cause hanging idle.
Click to expand...

I put new boots in last year. I'll check those to make sure they are seated properly. I did notice tho when I was trying to adjust the mixture screws that when I seated them (lightly seated) the engine didn't sputter or die.
 
".....I'll check those to make sure they are seated properly"

They need to be sealed with a nice newish round o-ring . see full story at cycleorings.com

 
tom203 said:
".....I'll check those to make sure they are seated properly"

They need to be sealed with a nice newish round o-ring . see full story at cycleorings.com

Click to expand...

I checked all the boots and o-rings and there is no leaking there at all. Vacuum lines are all good too. I checked the plugs and they are black and sooty. Dry. From what I know that means I'm running rich. Any ideas?
 
If the advance mechanism is sticking it can do that too.

Take the ignition cover off and twist the advance unit by hand. It should turn clockwise and spring back pretty quickly.
 
Swim_fan02 said:
I checked all the boots and o-rings and there is no leaking there at all. Vacuum lines are all good too. I checked the plugs and they are black and sooty. Dry. From what I know that means I'm running rich. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
First, did you actually remove boots and make sure o-rings are sticking above boot surface so they can compress and seal (the hanging idle stuff) ?

Second, you said this "....I did notice tho when I was trying to adjust the mixture screws that when I seated them (lightly seated) the engine didn't sputter or die. " to me, this suggests your idle passages aren't completely clear and youre compensating with throttle plate positioning to add mixture.
 
tkent02 said:
You haven't checked the valve clearances yet?
Click to expand...

I just did and the one exhaust valve was a bit loose. I did the whole works on the bike last year around this time and everything was good. That's why I never checked it. I figured it should've been ok still. Guess I was wrong. :-(. Think that May be the culprit?
 
Well. Damn. Idk then. All my vacuum lines and fuel lines are new. O-rings at the intake boots are good. Airbox side and the engine side boots are not leaking. Did the spray test. Not the cable. It's brand new and even tried it running without the throttle cable hooked up. Took the carbs apart to see if there was a passage that was blocked that I may have missed when I cleaned it but everything is clean as a whistle in there. Could it be a jetting issue? PO put header wrap and slip on hi-flow mufflers? Possibly bump up the pilots? It has the stock airbox on.
 
Is your choke sticking open? And are the carbs balanced?

I'm wondering if one butterfly is opening a lot more than the other can it cause this?
 
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