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I'm at a loss

  • Thread starter Thread starter jlweintraub
  • Start date Start date
J

jlweintraub

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Hello to all, this is my first post on this site so I feel as if I have came to the right place to fix my problem. About 3 weeks ago I got a 78 gs1000 that would start but not run very well and was hard on the eyes but for $100 I couldn't pass it up and I've turned some nasty barn cbs in to beauty queens. But this gs has got me totally lost. She's firing on all four I've got compression on all four but for some unknown reason its not running on but 1 and 2 if you get the bike running you can grab the pipes on 3&4 and they are ice cold. Any ideas would be a great help I can fig this thing out and this is the newest bike I've ever worked on so there is alot more wiring then I use to but still I have spark I have compression and even if I shoot starter fluid in to the open carb nothing can
 
Carbs are full of filth and they need a complete tear down and rebuild. If your not comfortable doing them yourself, I rebuild them as do others here. I suggest you read the carb rebuild tutorials here and pick the VM carb tutorial as a starting point.

Roberbarr is a member here and owns cycleorings.com and has the VM oring kits at his site....you dont need any rebuild kits...just the new orings, new bowl gaskets, and a can of Berrymans parts and carb dip available at Walmart.

Carb bowl gaskets are available here. I use them exclusively and never had a leak. Look about 2/3 down the page. Top gaskets usually dont need replaced unless one tears during disassembly.

PM me for any questions or to get my quote for a full rebuild.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html
 
Do all the other maintenance as well...valve adjustment, check timing, put new orings in the carb holders ( intake manifolds )..theres an oring in each one between the flange and the head surface. We also suggest that you soak the screws to the manifolds very very heavily with penetrating oil and use an impact driver to get them loose. I have a driver with the 3/8 drive head and I take extentions and go in above the battery box to get to the screws and get a good smack on the driver.

Replace the phillips head screws with stainless allen heads for a much more future experience should you need to remove them again.



Download the service manual here and have it at the bench as your wrenching..

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
Welcome !!
Your bike is 36 years old and needs some basic maintenance. a full carb cleaning as Chuck said is a great first step.
I think the issue with two cylinders not firing requires a carb sync, however, there is much more to do than just that. :)
 
Carbs have been cleaned and bench synchronized I have yet to check the valves but I'll be looking into that this weekend. I'll let you guys know what alls going on after I play with it a bit this weekend. Thanks for all your guys in site
 
jlweintraub said:
Carbs have been cleaned and bench synchronized I have yet to check the valves but I'll be looking into that this weekend. I'll let you guys know what alls going on after I play with it a bit this weekend. Thanks for all your guys in site
Click to expand...

How did you clean them, did you do complete dip for 24 hours or just spray carb cleaner in them?

Follow the carb cleaning tutorial on basscliff's site. Do not skip anything.

-Dave
 
Total tare down and full rebuild and the where soaked for 24hrs then ran through my parts washer. And I've just got some cheap pod filters I have left from my cb750 build on there
 
Have you opened the drains to see that the cold cylinders carbs are getting fuel? Crack them and see if they flow..or even have fuel in them. Floats can hang up on the edges of the gaskets and keep floats closed or open..depending on the position they are in when they snag up.

Sure the float hts are correct? Where is the mixture screw ( side ones at )? Usually 1 1/2 to 2 out initially is a good start point. Both coils are firing as you stated 1 and 2 get hot. Have you refreshed the connections at the wire and caps by cutting about 1/4 inch off and rescrewing the caps on?

And one other thing I always do is get some 1/8 brass or copper rod and get rid of the resistors in the caps. Unscrew the insert that grips the plugs and dump it into your hand. Make the rod the same length as the resistor and install it. Note that 1 and 4 dont have springs and 2 and 3 do. the spring goes in first in 2 and 3caps. Ive chased my tail a few times and soon as I did the resistor replacement trick they were perfectly fine again. Cant hurt anyways to be sure they are just gone
 
jlweintraub said:
Total tare down and full rebuild and the where soaked for 24hrs then ran through my parts washer. And I've just got some cheap pod filters I have left from my cb750 build on there
Click to expand...

Tape up about 3/4 of the pods starting at the small(furthest from the carb). My un-jetted 850 will NOT run properly with pods. I didn't get an airbox for it, the pods were all I had to use. Without them being taped it would choke, backfire and wouldn't rev past 5k. Taped up it runs perfectly.
 
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