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I'm exited and need to tell the drag racing freaks about it

  • Thread starter Thread starter scotty
  • Start date Start date
S

scotty

Guest
We have located an 1150 crank and the stuff that goes on the alternator end. it will be delivered next week :D :D :D
8O 8O 8O Well it is exiting to me 8O 8O I was looking at my engine sitting in pieces with the ported and polished head etc etc and no crankshaft. Falicon trashed my original one when we sent it for welding.
If i didn't already mention that the reason for the 1150 crank even though it is heavier IS--On a street racer the heavier shaft that carries the rotor is less likely to fail. On a real all out drag bike that uses a remote starter, he lighter 1100 crank is more desirable--- Actually on any 1100+++ drag bike, the 1100 is more desirable. i just want a more bulletproof street machine
 
Glad you decided to join us again.
What did they do to your crank that they could not repair. This is the first time I have ever heard of any problems with them.
 
lecroy said:
Glad you decided to join us again.
What did they do to your crank that they could not repair. This is the first time I have ever heard of any problems with them.
Click to expand...
Well it seems that the oil pump fell apart when the engine was being torn down. This pump failure probably accounts for the squeaking noises and head damage i found when i originally started out to just do a cam upgrade.
This seemed like a great reason to do some major hop ups on the already 166 engine. My speed shop sent the crank to Falicon((who I already don't like because of another experience with a clutch basket) they found damaged journal-bearings and some rod damage. Cost wise it seemed wiser to just go for another crank. The problem is locating A GOOD ONE. Maybe I will have better luck with this one. I also supose that any one who says your clutch basked is not good enough to upgrade would get me ticked. Theu probably were correct but i just didnt like the response--Thats life :lol:
 
It's going to be sweet Dom :) Kudos to you for sticking with it.
That's saying something for a guy with a lot of other bikes who could
have just as easily said scrap the whole thing.

Can't wait to see/hear the finished product.
 
Ah, now I understand. They try to help you out by not taking your money because they think the parts are in too poor of condition and you get upset.
:lol: :lol:
You know I had seen a brand new (well, just reworked) crank last summer. New rods, bearings, welded. I did not buy it because it had the 750 gear on it. I think the price was around $300. We picked up a set of cases from the same guy for $100. No welding and no mods.

What were they going to charge you to rebuild yours, if you don't mind? And what all work would they do for the price they quoted?
 
i didnt even ask i just had seen some prices for crank parts a while back. i needed bearings and a couple of journals then i just figured the rods would not be at thier best. It was a gut decision that was partly based on the street durablity of the 1150 crank. Im sorry that i dont have better info for you.
I had head work dne with larger valves, springs, modified rockers and some hot cams. I was thinking of getting the head flowed and CCd but the TSCC head has such a good rep that i m not sure tht the improvement would be that noticable. Im not loking for fractins of a secnd here.
 
Way to go Dom, performance for sure but reliability comes first!
 
You guys are scaring me with this Falicon stuff....I'm sending mine out in the next week....Falicon or Ape?
 
lecroy said:
If your staying with the gear, here is a basket for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4528476483&category=35595
Click to expand...

Thy want to leave the the bias gear but i want the straight cut setup with a bilett basket. Ill have to talk with them.


I would also go with Falicon. tHEY DIDNT CHEAT ME, i JUST DIDNT LIKE WHAT I HEARD BUT IT WAS THE TRUTH. tHEY ARE REPUTABLE. i GET A LITTLE SORE ABOUT IT FROM TIME TO TIME BUT I REALLY SHOULDNT BE GIVING THEM NEGATIVE PUBLICITY

Missed the caps key again :evil:
 
I still have the stock helical gears in my bikes and have never had any problems with them. Even when I was running the turbos I used them. I use all stock pins and clips in the crank and transmissions. I have never tried to figure out how much side loading they cause. I was looking at a friends crank this past summer and serveral teeth were missing from it. Normally asperated and straight cut 1100 gears on a drag bike.

I think if it is costing you more money to change the gearing, it may not be worth it for your street bike. The gains in friction will not be noticed. If you do change, I would almost suggest you go with the 750 gearing. Very easy to come by and your not running a slider.

Has anyone else had problems because of the helical gears, or broke the straight cut gears?
 
tHE SHOP BOYS AT MURDOCH RACING AGREE WITH YOU AND I PROBABLY WILL JUST LET THEM DO WHAT THE WANT. The said i would have a bulet proof street rod and thats all i really want.
:lol: :lol: Cut the crap guys it not going to be a harley. :lol: :lol:
As i and another guy said, if they put the street rod engine into a buell frame then it could be very tempting
 
KEITH KRAUSE said:
Now you got me excited! :) Hope the bike runs great!
Click to expand...
Kieth, I an sending ot to a local drag engine builder to have it tweaked on a dyno after it is installed. Then Duane my 135 pound deiver can see what it does in the 1/4. He is a bracket racer but i told him im not interested in anything but a time slip with his fastest run. Trophies mean nothing to me :D
 
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