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I'm finally fixing it!!! YEA!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FreshmanJoe
  • Start date Start date
chuck hahn said:
I explained what they are and where they are.. Look inside the spark plug boot hole...see if theres a slotted thing in there. Unscrew it and dump the spring and resistor ( ceramic looking thing ) into your hand. As for the fuel ...flick the float up and down and look to see if the float needle is stuck.
Click to expand...

Sorry, guess I wasn't paying attention.
I'm assuming that the spark plug boot hole is the hole on the engine that the spark plug lives in. I've pulled the #1 plug (which is dry) and I'm not seeing a slotted thing. So I'm thinking that this isn't the hole you were talking about. Going to trace the plug wires to see if I can find it. Sorry but I'm a newb. Thanks for your patience.
 
chuck hahn said:
This is what youll find down inside the boot if youn have the resistors...


Click to expand...

AAHHHHH! No I don't have them. That was easy. And I've been tapping it with a screwdriver still no fuel in that carb. Still no start.
 
Inside the CAP that you push onto the spark plug...look down inside with a flashlight. So now that I know your not familiar, let me explain about what I mean by refreshing the wire ends. The sparkm plug CAP screws onto the ends of the spark plug wires. If you unscrew the boots off the wires youll see a little screw in there. You need a good clean connection there too. So what you dom is to snip about 1/4 inch off the spark plug wire and screw the CAP back onto the wires...follow me now???
 
chuck hahn said:
Inside the CAP that you push onto the spark plug...look down inside with a flashlight. So now that I know your not familiar, let me explain about what I mean by refreshing the wire ends. The sparkm plug CAP screws onto the ends of the spark plug wires. If you unscrew the boots off the wires youll see a little screw in there. You need a good clean connection there too. So what you dom is to snip about 1/4 inch off the spark plug wire and screw the CAP back onto the wires...follow me now???
Click to expand...

Got it! doing it. Unhooking my battery first, don't want to get fried
 
FreshmanJoe said:
UPDATE
I've pulled the plugs off the carb bowls and there isn't fuel in the #1 carb. #2, 3, and 4 have fuel. Now I just have to find out why.
What would cause this?? Do I have to take the carbs back off?
And I would check my resistors if I knew what they were. Will look into it but I think the prob is fuel.
Click to expand...

I had this happen once for a really dumb reason (because I am really dumb, you see).

Check the carb bodies. If you mistakenly swap the 1 and 2 bodies when putting them back together, no fuel will pass through to the outside carb.

Just look though the fuel ports. You can see clear through the fuel openings on 2 and 3, while 1 and 4 are dead-ends.
 
MisterCinders said:
I had this happen once for a really dumb reason (because I am really dumb, you see).

Check the carb bodies. If you mistakenly swap the 1 and 2 bodies when putting them back together, no fuel will pass through to the outside carb.

Just look though the fuel ports. You can see clear through the fuel openings on 2 and 3, while 1 and 4 are dead-ends.
Click to expand...

BIG THANK YOU!!!! to Chuck to giving me a call and talking me through this.
AND THANK YOU to MisterCinders. You see it appears that I'm a dumb person too! I mislabled 1&2. When they came out of the bath the label washed off. I thought I relabeled them properly but after comparing them to some photos I defently swaped them. All well time to do it again. I thought this was too easy.
 
It's alive!!!! Wahahahahaha!

It's alive!!!! Wahahahahaha!

So after taking the carbs off again and switching 1 and 2 then putting on than taking off the shaft about a million times cause i kept forgetting somthing. Then doing a bench sync after each time:(. I GOT IT RUNNING!! YEA!!! But then something evil happened. I saw two screws sitting on my workbench. AAHHHHHHHH!!!! Found out that they hold carb #3 to the mounting plate:twistedevil:. All well, I'll deal with it later. For now I can relish in the fact that it started:D
Got to get to work will have some requested pics up tonight after work.
 
Huzzah!

When I made this same fumble, it took several sessions of cleaning and poking holes until I noticed that I could see right through the "No. 4" fuel passage. I literally thought, "Well that isn't blocked, you can see straight through there. Hey, wait a minute . . . "

With that lesson under my belt, I don't even label the carbs to dip them. Just check the fuel passages and air screw locations to identify which carb is which.
 
So I "fixed" the carb. Took it back off and put those two screws in there place and reattached everything. Double and triple checked everything. vent, vacum, and fuel hoses all put in there place.
Now all I get is a backfire and the sound of the starter. At one point it was almost there then quickly died.
I know I need to adjust the valve clearance, Will this alone stop my bike from starting??? I've read the what to do if your bike dosen't start and I'm going to check my plugs tomarrow after I try again and go from there. I just wanted to know if valve clearance was capible of stopping the bike from starting or if I should be looking somewhere else????:confused:
 
So I'm following the tutorial on the bottom of Mr Cinders post about "My bike won't start". Figured out that spark is the issue. So I took off the plugs and boot thingys and clipped a bit of wire. On top of that I cleaned the hell out of the spark plugs (don't have any cash to get new ones). When I started I had a weak spark on #2 and the rest had no spark. After cleaning I have a good spark on 1-3 but #4 is being stubborn and won't give me anything. Any ideas???
EDIT
And by the way the plugs were wet with fuel when I pulled them out. There are new plugs but I did put about 75-100 miles on them so they were carbon fowled.
 
Test the #4 plug boots with different plugs. If none spark, the boot/wire is bad. If other plugs spark, the plug is bad.

If you've done this already, check the connections on that plug wire.
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!! @$&#*$%$$%&%$#%&*$@%&

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!! @$&#*$%$$%&%$#%&*$@%&

Now that i got that out. So i changed out the spark plugs and she roared to life using the choke without issue. Cool! I let her run for a few min and she sounds great! Real smooth. So i decide to try to slowly turn the choke down and she dies. Ok thats fine let's try again. Almost, almost , nothing. Ok how bout a squrt of starter fluid. Nothing. Now all i get is the starter. And here i was thinking that i might FINALLY be able to go for a ride. All well. Take a deep breath, wait a hr or two for the battery to charge and try again. Now i think it's time for a beer.
 
id check to make sure your throttles adjusted open at idle . the long screw in between #2 and #3 . twist it in a little. i dont live to far from you but my license is suspended atm or i would come help. did you get new plugs? are they already flooded? may need to re check the float height again .
 
Running with choke but not without? Sounds lean to me. Check your float levels and the pilot settings and adjust them to richen the mix.
 
So she runs, but won't stay running. In order to get her to start i have to set the petcock to pri then start with the chock wide open. Then she'll start and go straight to 3000rpm or so. I try to turn down the choke slowly and the rpm goes up then dies. I've adjusted all the air screws to 2 turns out .
I've heard a few of say check my float level. How? The only way i know how is to take the bowl off and bust out my ruler. Is this what you mean? What should i do? Starting to get really frustrated with it.
 
I suspect that she's too lean cause now she'll start after i set the petcock to pri for a few seconds prior to starting. then the rpms go to 3000 for a few seconds then the rpms jump around a bit before dieing. So i'm thinking of taking off the bowls measuring the float and if they are good turning my fuel screw out a quarter turn.
 
The float on #4 is at 33mm. It should be at 24mm right?

Edit
No, that measurement was taken with the carb attached to the bike. In order to get the 24mm reading the carbs have to be off the bike and upside down. Hmmmmm.
 
Last edited:
Time to get ready for work. So at the end all i did was all the air screws at 2 turns out. And she will only start if i prime her first then will only run a few min. So i'm thinking that once she uses up the gas from the prime shes done and not getting anything from the petcock. Maybe the petcock is bad? What else would cause this?
 
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