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I'm finally fixing it!!! YEA!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FreshmanJoe
  • Start date Start date
Yea i went to bassclifs site. Thats were i got the pictorial, owners, and service manual. I was just confused if i could use the pictorial cause in one of the first slides it says it was for cv carbs on 1980 and newer. I think i'll use it as a guide not a bible. I'm studing the steoby step and service manual. I just want to understand how a carb works and whats what and why before i start. Just tring to be prepared so i don't make any newbie mistakes.
As for the $300. I want to take care of my carbs, adjust my valve clearance, check my points/ timing, install a helicoil on my oil pan so the strped out plug stops leakind, fix my turn signals, replace my front and rear pads, and replace the rear rotor for $300. Was curious if it all could be done on that budget with a guy who only knows what he's read here doing the work. I have a little help but it seems i'm doing bout everything and a year ago all i knew about bikes is how to be stupid with them. Thanks all for the help! I know i'll have a lot of questions as i do this.
 
Oh and dan the man, i was think helicoil cause of bassclifs website. He has a tutorial on how to fix a striped out drain plug. I have the plug your talking about in there now and it still has a slow leak.
 
You should also plan on going through and checking your electrical system , these ol girls are famous for having problems, but a little love to the connections can be the difference of burning up some components or not
 
So i've read the pictorial and my service manual about a million times and i'm taking the carbs off tonight when i get off work. I feel good except one thing. How do i go about removing the airbox. Anyone know of any tricks? I've tried to do it yesterday and got so frustrated with it i ran out of time and had to go get my wife from work. Any tricks to it or do i have to wrestle with it.
 
Test

Test

Trying to figure out how to post pics
GEDC3163.jpg
 
Yea! It worked!

A little while ago I read a post where someone posted a link on where to buy the tool needed to sync the carbs. I guess it was the one you guys recomended getting. anyone know what I'm talking about? Was going to order it today so I can sync my carbs when I'm done.
Was also going to buy the bath for the carbs today. There's a few options I found. What do you recommend. Will be running out to the parts store after I get them off the bike. Hopfully I'll have pics of my progress tonight.
 
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Ah, that is known as a skunk. Very desirable by GS aficionados.
The Morgan Carb Tune is the favorite carb synch tool.
Got those carbs out yet?
 
Moving slow

Moving slow

So I wrestled with the airbox longer than expected and came to the conclusion that I never want to mess with that pain in the a** thing again so I'm thinking pods are in my bikes future. Then I took pics studied what hooks up to what and got stuck on number 8.
8. Before you take the carbs off, loosen the bolt for the throttle shaft stopper plate. It can be very tight and more difficult to loosen when the carbs are off the bike. It?s between the #1 and #2 carb and fits in a groove in the throttle shaft to keep the shaft from moving side to side.
I can't find it/ don't know which one it is.
phoneJ336.jpg

This is between 1 and 2. I don't see any sort of plate.
phoneJ331.jpg

This is between 2 and 3. The throttle cable is here so isn't the throttle plate between these two. What's really getting me is I don't see a difference between what's between 1 and 2 vs 3 and 4. Anyone have a pic I can refer two?? Sorry for the trouble and thanks.
 
I don't know the VM carbs, but I know this much:
There is a shaft that crosses between all 4 carbs. It keeps the slides synchronized. This plate is apparently placed there to prevent the shaft from moving side-to-side. Find where the shaft goes between carbs 1 & 2. The plate should be there.
 
The plate is in your top picture, top/middle. See that phillips screw that goes sideways? That holds the plate in. Small vise grips work well for removing it.
 
Awesome! Well I think I'm in for the night and the in-laws will be here all day tomorrow so I guess it'll have to wait till Monday (unless i find a way to sneak off hehe). I ordered the carb o ring, intake o ring, and fasteners from cycle-o-rings, and a carbtune from Morgan carbtune. Going to go out and get a carb bath monday. Should I get the top and bowl gaskets? I'm leaning towards yes cause I don't want to need it and not have it. Can I get these without getting a carb kit? Where should I look? Also what do you guys think about pods? I'm looking at K&N but they cost over $100. All the other ones cost around $12 is it ok to get the cheapo brand???

phoneJ321.jpg


Just cause I love this pic. Don't know why I just do.:lol:
 
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Yes, get the gaskets from Z1.
Don't bother with the cheapo pods, they are hard to tune and filter very poorly and inconsistently.
K&N and APE both make the correct pods and are reuseable for life. APEs are a bit cheaper.
You will also need a DynoJet Stage 3 jet kit.
 
Damn. This is getting pricey. Ahh well think i might have to wait to get the pods a few weeks but i can get the jet kit. I can get the chepo pods for a few weeks and then just resync when i get the k&n right? Or am i better off waiting till next month when i have the cash and getting the k and n off the bat?
 
FreshmanJoe said:
Damn. This is getting pricey. Ahh well think i might have to wait to get the pods a few weeks but i can get the jet kit. I can get the chepo pods for a few weeks and then just resync when i get the k&n right? Or am i better off waiting till next month when i have the cash and getting the k and n off the bat?
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Just wait and get the goods ones. The cheap ones have a reputation for being difficult to jet. No need to do the same work twice. If the APEs fit they are cheaper at $60, but APE's site does not show that they fit the VM carbed bikes.
 
FreshmanJoe said:
Oh and dan the man, i was think helicoil cause of bassclifs website. He has a tutorial on how to fix a striped out drain plug. I have the plug your talking about in there now and it still has a slow leak.
Click to expand...
Get the next size up. They come in a +1 and a +2 size.


FreshmanJoe said:
Trying to figure out how to post pics
Click to expand...

FreshmanJoe said:
Yea! It worked!
Click to expand...
Before you hit the "Submit Reply" button, try using the "Preview Post" button, instead. You will get to see your post exactly as it will show when you hit "Submit". If something is not quite right, you can drop down below the post and edit it. Hit "Preview" again to make sure your changes are what you wanted.. When you are happy with the results, then you can hit "Submit" for all of us to see.


FreshmanJoe said:
Damn. This is getting pricey.
Click to expand...
Join the club of those who get pods just because they get frustrated removing the airbox.

You realize how much cheaper and easier it is to clean the carbs properly ONE TIME, leave the airbox in there and not worry about it for several years? That's right. Once you get the carbs done and installed, you won't need to touch them for several years, so that "PITA" experience is really just a one-time thing. :D

.
 
[You realize how much cheaper and easier it is to clean the carbs properly ONE TIME, leave the airbox in there and not worry about it for several years? That's right. Once you get the carbs done and installed, you won't need to touch them for several years, so that "PITA" experience is really just a one-time thing. :D]

As Steve has stated it only has to be done every few years, plus you don't have to play the jetting game. You could also replace all rubber parts on the air box to make the task a little easier.
 
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