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I'm finally fixing it!!! YEA!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FreshmanJoe
  • Start date Start date
You dont know me but you called...so whats the diff???

If you wanted to you can hang up on me. If i give him a ride over to my place he's relying on me a guy he dosen't know to A not be a d-bag and B give him a ride home when he needs it. Little different helping a guy from cross the country vs at him place. Maybe it's cause i grew up in a bad neighborhood but i tend not to trust people off the bat.
 
If you wanted to you can hang up on me. If i give him a ride over to my place he's relying on me a guy he dosen't know to A not be a d-bag and B give him a ride home when he needs it. Little different helping a guy from cross the country vs at him place. Maybe it's cause i grew up in a bad neighborhood but i tend not to trust people off the bat.

If I were closer, I'd come help you out. A number of forum dudes have come by for help with stuff (to the extent I can), and to pick up some random spare parts I had. None of them have been axe murderers . . . so far.

Other dudes on this forum have hooked me up with the odd free part or two, so I generally have an open door policy for people on this forum. Call it a karma investment.

Of course I live in a "bad area" by a lot of suburban standards being in the city and not in some tampon neighborhood. :D All the vagrants and scrap metal collectors that roam the alley behind my house/garage know me as "that dude still working on his bike." ;)
 
If I were closer, I'd come help you out. A number of forum dudes have come by for help with stuff (to the extent I can), and to pick up some random spare parts I had. None of them have been axe murderers . . . so far.

Other dudes on this forum have hooked me up with the odd free part or two, so I generally have an open door policy for people on this forum. Call it a karma investment.

Of course I live in a "bad area" by a lot of suburban standards being in the city and not in some tampon neighborhood. :D All the vagrants and scrap metal collectors that roam the alley behind my house/garage know me as "that dude still working on his bike." ;)[/QUOT

Yea, i sent him a pm prior to posting here. I understand that just about everyone helps each other however they can but still if some random dude asked you to jump in his car so he can take you over to his place to fix his bike. I dunno my first reaction would be that somthing shady was going to happen. I know i'm paranoid. By the way since your from chicago you may kniw the area i grew up in. It was Zion right up next to the power plant
 
OK, so basketcase came by today to give me a hand and WOW! What a huge difference a guy with some know how can make in a few hrs. Now she's running pretty good but not perfect. At low RMPs (under 3000) she's sluggish.:( I need to give her a little more gas when I let off the clutch but not too much. It's just enough to notice. I need to replace the ?intake boots?. The part that connects the carbs to the motor. They are old, crappy, and letting in air. That is part of the issue. The other part is we can't sync carb #1 due to the nut on top of the slide assembly being stuck to the screw. So I need to find a new idle screw and nut to replace it. Anyone have an extra or know where I can find one??? I also still need to do the valve clearance. I know, I know, I'll get to it before I take her out on a ride that isn't around the block. Then change the exhaust gaskets to stop the exhaust leak then she should be running like new and I can start moving my focus to getting into a ride like a pro class and getting some long rides in.:D:lol::D:lol:

Here's the idle screw I'm looking to replace. Any help in locating one is much appreciated. I've already looked at z1 and ape.
bike006.jpg
 
On top of the slide assembley in the carb. You loosen the nut and turn the screw to sync the carb.
 
Take 2 pieces of pine board and put on eaqch side of the vice jaws and lock it in. Heat the nut with a propane torch and USE THE 8 MM SOCKET and the nut will come right off. Then dip it in the carbs dip overnight and clean it up a bit and reinstall.
 
its not exactly stuck so much as probably stripped, just turns and turns without moving, then when it does bite it is done
 
I have some spares. PM me an address and I can drop the parts into an envelope to you.
 
Valve Clearance

Valve Clearance

So I figured I would start doing that valve clearance I keep putting off. I removed the valve cover and got to the point were I need to use the feeler gauges to measure my clearance. I just noticed that the smallest feeler gauges go is .04mm and my valves are tighter than that. Do I need to get new gauges that go smaller? How do I know what size shim I need. I'm reading the tutorial from basscliffs website and I have that spreadsheet that's been floating around. I was going to use the spreadsheet thinking it would make it easier but it needs my to plug in a number. What do I do????:eek::confused:
 
In the spreadsheet put (less than 0.04mm(. Pull each one and measure it with your micrometer or caliper gauge, record those values also. At times you can move some around to get some within tolerances. Otherwise, sounds like shim club time to me.
 
The minimum clearance is 0.03mm, so if your 0.04mm won't fit you are too tight or MAYBE just within spec. Basically treat <0.04mm as too tight, since more clearance is always better.

If you do shuffle your shims, make sure you don't turn the engine and cams without a shim in place. That can make swaps tricky unless you have a spare shim to use as a placeholder.
 
Valve Clearance

Valve Clearance

This valve clearance is the biggest pain in the ass I have ever come across on this bike. I've been on my 1st shim for an 1 1/2 hrs. I can't seem to get it out!
I take my shim tool and press it against the cam. Then i SLOWLY push it down. I get it most of the way down (after many tries) and try to get the shim. can't get it with the damn twezers so I break the tension with a razor. Cool I get the shim so all I need to do is grab it. Damn that cam isn't high enough! Try to GENTLY push the tool down a litter bit more. POP, the damn tool slips off and it's time to try again! AHHHHH! Ok, I feel better now. Time to try again. As my old man said, "Nothin to it but to do it."

If only I had a magnet. That would make this much easier
 
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Turn the notch in the bucket so it faces to the easiest side to get at the shim. Pry the bucket down. Use a very small flat tip and go in the notch and lift on the side of the shim and it will pop up. leave the screw driver there and fetch the shim out with some hemos or tweezers.
 
NO MAGNETS ON SHIMS!!! Any magmetic transfer to a shim will make any fragments or fine shavings stick to them and can potentially wear on a cam lobe after a period of time.
 
So after a bit of practice I got the hang of taking the shims out and now I don't know why I had so much trouble in the first place. So to my question.

My clearances I have measured thus far...

Front (exhaust side)
---------------cyl 1 ----------cyl 2----------- cyl 3------------- cyl 4
clearance at ------- not measured ------ less than 0.04-----less than 0.04
shim -----------------unknown----------------- 2.85------------2.85

Back (carb side)
clearance at -------not measured -------- less than 0.04------less than 0.04
shim --------------------unknown----------- 2.80 ----------------2.85


I'm not good with exel (never used it before, never had to) So I was going to see if I could do the math cause I would like to be able to figure it out without a computer. It gives me a better understanding than just typing in a number and doing what the puter says without knowing why. Although I plan on having my wife help me figure out the spreadsheet when she gets off work. ( She's what I call puter savy)
Sooo the point... I've read the addendum on the valve clearance tutorial and from what I've gathered if your valve clearance is to small you need a smaller shim. With this train of thought I switched cyl 3 exhaust and intake thinking that it would increase the clearance on cyl 3 exhaust. It didn't. After switching the clearance is still less than 0.04 on both valves. So how do I figure out what size I need? Or do I need to shell out the 135 bucks for a shim kit and do it trial and error style? What now??? Will finish measuring and recording and will update in a few when I finish. Thank you all for your help!
 
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The fear of magnetism has me perplexed. I thought you could only magnetize something by passing it through a magnetic field.

So then simply using a magnetic to hold something doe not impart anything signifigant.
 
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