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Immediate high idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr_Shamrock
  • Start date Start date
M

Mr_Shamrock

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As I briefly mentioned in my intro (New GS Owner) I picked up a 81 GS650GLX a couple weeks ago as a winter project. I got if from an auction so the history is unknown, but the bike has good compression on all 4 and ran with starter spray so I tore the carbs down and rebuilt them. The bike came to life as soon as I put the carbs back on (what a PITA to get them on and off), but tachs WAY up so I haven't let it run long. I did try turning the mixture screws out to see if it would help and may have a little but it still idles high enough to make me shut it right back down. All 4 intakes have some sort of epoxy all over them so I am ordering new ones, but was wondering if there was any other common leak points. A little info about the bike - stock air box (new filter on order), stock exhaust, well basically a 100% stock bike besides paint and a windshield which has already been removed (didn't look right on there).
Thanks in advance!
 
throttle cable

throttle cable

It could be air leaks from those boots. Make sure you replace the o-rings too. I had the same problem, it was just the throttle cable out of adjustment. Try to loosen it up and see what happens while you are waiting on your parts.
 
jsandidge said:
It could be air leaks from those boots. Make sure you replace the o-rings too. I had the same problem, it was just the throttle cable out of adjustment. Try to loosen it up and see what happens while you are waiting on your parts.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply. The throttle cable was one of the first things I checked and it is in good shape and has the necessary free play. I ordered a complete set of intakes, o-rings, and clamps that was a package deal off of eBay. They are coming from a Suzuki dealer though so they are genuine parts. One thing I did notice is the cable for the tach is missing so there is nothing in the fitting right now. I tried blocking it off and that didn't seem to make a difference. I didn't think it would but stranger things have happened. So now I get to wait on the parts.
 
Idle

Idle

Is the idle screw, between the 2 middle carbs, adjusted properly??? It is located at a downward angle at the back of the 2 middle float bowls. Tricky to adjust when bike is hot, but is easy to adjust when the bike is cold.
 
habsdoc said:
Is the idle screw, between the 2 middle carbs, adjusted properly??? It is located at a downward angle at the back of the 2 middle float bowls. Tricky to adjust when bike is hot, but is easy to adjust when the bike is cold.
Click to expand...


Yeah I even backed it out to where it wasn't touching anymore just to rule it out. It is PITA to get to. I think between carb removal/install and idle adjustment there's some engineers at Suzuki that are still laughing at us. I was VERY tempted to go with pods but this bike is so original I just couldn't do it, plus I read they aren't real fun to tune for.
 
tom203 said:
Hopefully you saw link for Basscliff's site...

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html

Note the proper carb cleaning procedure- these CV's don't appreciate shortcuts and as you've found out, carb removal/reinstall is no fun on the 650.
Click to expand...

Very nice link thanks! I hadn't seen that yet, but it is definitely saved now. Yeah the carbs were done right. The only thing I see in the link that I didn't do is use original jets. Each carb got a K&L kit put in it - after complete disassembly, soaking in cleaner, wire run through all orifices, orifices all sprayed out with carb cleaner (making sure cleaner exited the proper orifice), and then blown out with compressed air . I am not sure who makes K&L jets but I verified they were all the same size. I also bench synced them and I am sure they are REAL close, but since I can't get a safe idle I can't sync them on the bike just yet. That will definitely get done though. For the record I am an ex bike shop owner so this is definitely not my first set of carbs I have gone through, just my first GS650 that I have gotten so friendly with. Not saying I am exempt from overlooking or learning new things and that is one of the reasons I try to find a site that specializes in the bike I am currently rebuilding (there has been a few) and try to learn as much as I can from the folks that have already been there many times. I really appreciate the information and will post my results when I get my parts in.
 
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K&L jets suck, but they won't cause a high idle. That is an air thing, too much air getting in someplace. Do the throttles make a loud "clack" sound if you open it all the way and let it go? (engine not running) If not they are not closing all the way.
 
The K&L kits aren't noted to be the best option on a rebuild. Many here have expressed their concerns about the quality of these kits. Just food for thought.
 
tkent02 said:
K&L jets suck, but they won't cause a high idle. That is an air thing, too much air getting in someplace. Do the throttles make a loud "clack" sound if you open it all the way and let it go? (engine not running) If not they are not closing all the way.
Click to expand...


Just to make sure, I went out in the shop and did the "clack" test and yeah they slam shut. Here's a few pics I took of the bike on the lift and my little home shop.

IMAG0215.jpg


IMAG0216.jpg


IMAG0217.jpg
 
First time I saw your title, I read, "Immediate high side".

Very happy this was not the case.

Air leaks are easier to fix than bones.
 
Before you instaled the carbs, how big were the slots at the bottom of the throttle plates when the throttle was closed?
 
tkent02 said:
Before you instaled the carbs, how big were the slots at the bottom of the throttle plates when the throttle was closed?
Click to expand...

I used a piece of wire that I use to clean the orifices out just to make sure the sync was close. I set them with that and then adjusted the idle screw in a few turns and remeasured with something thicker (I think I used a small screwdriver as a reference). I then put them back to the wire thickness before install. Once I found the high idle situation I backed the idle screw out until it wasn't touching and it still revs WAY up with the throttle plates closed all the way.
 
See if the taps on the bottom of the intake boots are leaking. These are for syncing the carbs which you should do as well. Make sure they are snug and check for leaks by spraying wd40
Did you replace the o rings in the air screws correctly?spray along the top carefully
Do the clamps on the boots fit tight? After screwing them down can they be moved? New clamps are about 2 dollars each.
Are the throttle screws for 1 , 2 and 4 adjusted improperly or the tang not under the screw? One throttle plate could be very high even though you backed the main adjuster out. All it takes is one throttle to be up and the engine will race.
 
duaneage said:
See if the taps on the bottom of the intake boots are leaking. These are for syncing the carbs which you should do as well. Make sure they are snug and check for leaks by spraying wd40
Did you replace the o rings in the air screws correctly?spray along the top carefully
Do the clamps on the boots fit tight? After screwing them down can they be moved? New clamps are about 2 dollars each.
Are the throttle screws for 1 , 2 and 4 adjusted improperly or the tang not under the screw? One throttle plate could be very high even though you backed the main adjuster out. All it takes is one throttle to be up and the engine will race.
Click to expand...

All the taps are tight. I can't test with WD-40 b/c the engine races too high to even keep it running long enough. All clamps are tight and I made sure the throttle plates were even and moved in unison. Thanks for the idea's!
 
Check the timing.
Pull the right side engine cover and check that the advance weights are not stuck. This is a problem where the springs rust and seize or break then the timing goes to 34 BTDC. Engine will race. You can use a timing light on 1 or 4 and see where it stands through a little window. With it racing it will be at the high advanced mark of 34 degrees ( above 3400 RPM) and should go down if you can get it below 2000.

If the place is loose or a PO mucked around with it you may need to static time it. Stop the engine, remove a plug, and bring it to TDC precisely. Use a pencil in the hole to determine the piston is all the way up.

The line for T should line up. F is fire right next to it.

This is easy. The thing runs, you just need to tame it.
 
You did the right thing with the intake boots and o-rings.
This is more than likely your problem.
 
duaneage said:
Check the timing.
Pull the right side engine cover and check that the advance weights are not stuck. This is a problem where the springs rust and seize or break then the timing goes to 34 BTDC. Engine will race. You can use a timing light on 1 or 4 and see where it stands through a little window. With it racing it will be at the high advanced mark of 34 degrees ( above 3400 RPM) and should go down if you can get it below 2000.

If the place is loose or a PO mucked around with it you may need to static time it. Stop the engine, remove a plug, and bring it to TDC precisely. Use a pencil in the hole to determine the piston is all the way up.

The line for T should line up. F is fire right next to it.

This is easy. The thing runs, you just need to tame it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the helpful info. I will check it while I am waiting on parts just to rule that out.
 
Verdict is in - the intake boots did the trick. Bike runs great now! Now if I could just get my hands on the guy that designed this intake/carb/airbox mounting system the day would officially be a success!
I've already decided if the carbs have to come back off I am going pods - this just doesn't make sense!!!!!
 
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