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Indicator bulbs and the dominoe effect - 79 Gs850

  • Thread starter Thread starter knewel
  • Start date Start date
K

knewel

Guest
So new Reg/Rect (sh775) installed, new dynateck coils, electronic ignition,new stator, and things are looking up. Clean connections, look over wiring, and conduct recommended system testing. In the middle of this job , I sourced a couple new instrument panel indicator bulbs. I couldn't find an exact match at parts store, but looked really close. While doing charging system tests, as recommended, noticed I wasn't getting full charge . I seemed to have a voltage leak in system. After hours of tedious searching with multimeter, I discovered the new bulbs were shorting . There was continuity between pos and neg through the bulb. Is this possible?? Continuity between the centre pin and metal banding of bulb.Is it possible $2 in bulbs could cripple my new 21st century ignition/ charging system?
 
All incandescent bulbs will show continuity or near a zero ohm reading. Perfectly normal. Look elsewhere for the problem.

When you say it's not getting to full charge, exactly how are you determining this?
 
When doing charging test, all readings were almost a full volt to low. So battery voltage ignition off-12.6, battery voltage ignition on - 11.8. With bike running voltage around 12.3, rev to 5000 rpm voltage goes up to around 12.8 . There's seems to be an attempt to fix wiring at some point as there's multiple splices and several blown fuses when I bought bike.
 
New battery. Unfortunately so many electrical issues when I bought the bike I never had a chance for a 'baseline' to start with, you know what I mean. Dead battery, fried stator, corroded contacts, etc. Bikes actually in good condition, just need to solve this frustrating bugbear! Dynatech (very helpful) gave me some tests for the gnition system. I was surprised there was continuity between some of electronic ignition wires and ground on the tests. This 'may' indicate a problem with ignition module, but recommended looking for possible leak in system before deciding electronic ignition is defective. Which I agree with.
 
Check all your connections from the stator to the R/R. Verify your voltage output directly at the R/R red and black wires. Check your stator output with the R/R disconnected. At 5K rpm, it would be near 80V AC between each leg.
 
Also try another voltmeter, or use that one to test a known good bike\car. It just may read low. Check grounds!!!!!!
 
Thanks responders! I was also wondering about trying straight stator output brfeore charge descends into wiring morass . Advice greatly appreciated, I was about ready to park the beast for the summer.
 
knewel said:
Thanks responders! I was also wondering about trying straight stator output brfeore charge descends into wiring morass . Advice greatly appreciated, I was about ready to park the beast for the summer.
Click to expand...

You know there are procedural tests already define in order to diagnose your charging system right (not to mention those in my signature opps I guess I did :rolleyes:?

http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers.php
 
The 3 stator wires should go straight to the SH775 R/R inputs and not go through the harness at all. The + output from the R/R should go to the red wire that the old R/R went to and the ground connection can go straight to the battery minus terminal.
 
You say you replaced the stator. How many poles on the new stator? :-k

If there were 12, go ahead and check the stator output. If there were 18 poles, better plan on getting the proper stator.

.
 
hmm... i'll have to check that (as well). It was from a recommendation here on the forum. And I know I specified the bike when I ordered. But, you never know...

Steve said:
You say you replaced the stator. How many poles on the new stator? :-k

If there were 12, go ahead and check the stator output. If there were 18 poles, better plan on getting the proper stator.

.
Click to expand...
 
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