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induction boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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hello,


I have a question about my induction boots. I have a couple of pics of the area I am concerned with. The interior as well as the exterior seem crack free. However, will the gap that I point out in the pic affect their operation? I also point out a chip in the second pic. The area where the gap and chip are is hard and slightly brittle in each of my boots. Should I replace the boots, or are they fine since there are no cracks in the main portion of the boot? Also, the "o"rings are hard and need to be replaced, but I am curious as to whether they set flush (as they do now) or protruded from the metal flange when new. The plastic cover that surrounds the screw holes in the flange is also brittle and missing in places, will this affect anything.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/petveedub/lst?.dir=/1978+GS550

On a different note, my petcock diaphragm was not working properly (read draining fuel constantly). After careful study I discovered that on my model of petcock if the lever is pointing up, fuel cannot leave the reserve or primary tanks. So if you flip the designation plate upside down, the lever can then be turned left, up, and right. Thus, allowing you to use the primary and reserve tanks and a no fuel position ironically designated by the word NO (or ON upside down). So all that was left to do was to remove the diaphragm, and use a sealant to form a gasket where the diaphragm had been. Then plug the vaccuum hoses, and I have not altered my petcock to where it cannot be returned to stock. I did ;however, file a little off of the lever so it would not hit the tank.

Thanks for reading, and any info on the boots would be great,
Billy Miles
 
Re: induction boots

The chip and gap shown in the pics are both inside the diameter of the sealing"O" ring, so they will have no effect. As long as any cracks do not go through the boot, you should be fine with those boots. The "O" rings should be pliable and they are raised above the surface, not flat as shown.

Your petcock modification seems like it will work ok. Note though that it now is like a Pingel. You have on, reserve and off. Fuel should be turned off now before shutting down the engine and the engine should be started and idling before turning on fuel. Otherwise, you will end up with gas seeping into your crankcase oil. If you forget to shut off fuel, its a given that you must change the oil before running the engine. Do not depend on the float needles to completely shut off fuel, they will not.

Earl
 
Billy wrote:

On a different note, my petcock diaphragm was not working properly (read draining fuel constantly). After careful study I discovered that on my model of petcock if the lever is pointing up, fuel cannot leave the reserve or primary tanks. So if you flip the designation plate upside down, the lever can then be turned left, up, and right. Thus, allowing you to use the primary and reserve tanks and a no fuel position ironically designated by the word NO (or ON upside down). So all that was left to do was to remove the diaphragm, and use a sealant to form a gasket where the diaphragm had been. Then plug the vaccuum hoses, and I have not altered my petcock to where it cannot be returned to stock. I did ;however, file a little off of the lever so it would not hit the tank.
Click to expand...

Billy, that was a good idea.

It led me to go one step further. Instead of mounting the plate upside down, I just "dremmeled" off the little notch on the mounting plate which prohibits you from turning the lever all the way up. Now I have a method of mechanically shutting off the fuel, regardless of whether diaphragm works or not, and still have all the other 3 original functions available. (And I don't have to read upside-down, makes me all dizzy :D :D )
 
I considered the same thing, but being a bit obsessive compulsive I don't like to make changes that can't be reversed.
:D Glad I could be of help though :D ,
Billy Miles
 
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