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Installed Compufire RR - Way Cool!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter wheatdog
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wheatdog

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With stock shunt RR engine temp was usually around 200-210 deg F. Installed Compufire Series RR per Posplayr's tutorial and am showing large engine temp drop. My '83 1100E temp gauge now has the needle showing just above the first line at the 160 deg F end of the gauge. 180 deg maybe?? Anyhoo, the install was not hard and mucho gratis to Posplayr for the instructions. The Compufire works better than an oil cooler. Hoping this allows long stator life as well since it appears it's no longer smoking hot.

Mike
 
Just wondering: Does this result in noticeably less cooking of the bod when sitting in traffic?
 
The shunt type (stock) relay grounds excessive voltage when battery charge and bike requirements are met. This causes the stator to heat up (especially at extended high RPMs) since the charging system is still maxed out. Your stator in the engine housing is exposed to the oil in the crankcase and thereby adds mucho heat to the engine oil and hence the engine too. The Compufire unit "shuts off" the charging system (instead of grounding excess voltage) when charging requirments are met which doesn't produce heat. Now your stator runs much cooler (last longer) and doesn't add excessive heat to the engine oil and VOILA' -- Much cooler engine temps.

At least thats my totally laymanical take on what I've gleaned from Posplayer's inspired electrical scrolls.

Mike
 
Dogma,
Testicular temps are noticable reduced as well. I'm an old Panhead rider. I used to know when to shut my bike off in traffic by the ever increasing engine clatter when viscosities begen falling off due to high temps.

Mike
 
The shunt type (stock) relay grounds excessive voltage when battery charge and bike requirements are met. This causes the stator to heat up (especially at extended high RPMs) since the charging system is still maxed out. Your stator in the engine housing is exposed to the oil in the crankcase and thereby adds mucho heat to the engine oil and hence the engine too. The Compufire unit "shuts off" the charging system (instead of grounding excess voltage) when charging requirments are met which doesn't produce heat. Now your stator runs much cooler (last longer) and doesn't add excessive heat to the engine oil and VOILA' -- Much cooler engine temps.

At least thats my totally laymanical take on what I've gleaned from Posplayer's inspired electrical scrolls.

Mike

He is good at that 'lectrical stuff, ain't he ?

Okay, that makes sense to me. Thanks.:)
 
With stock shunt RR engine temp was usually around 200-210 deg F. Installed Compufire Series RR per Posplayr's tutorial and am showing large engine temp drop. My '83 1100E temp gauge now has the needle showing just above the first line at the 160 deg F end of the gauge. 180 deg maybe?? Anyhoo, the install was not hard and mucho gratis to Posplayr for the instructions. The Compufire works better than an oil cooler. Hoping this allows long stator life as well since it appears it's no longer smoking hot.

Mike

Congrats Sound like you have dropped about 20-30 degrees operating temp before v.s. after.

Your right, this is better than an oil cooler ;).

I just got back from about 1700 mile trip last week and have had no issues with mine.

The Stator and R/R are now more efficent than an alternator and will save you from a burned stator.
 
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20-30 degrees reduction by changing the R/R sounds like a pipe dream to me.
 
20-30 degrees reduction by changing the R/R sounds like a pipe dream to me.

So whatever happened to your quote? :-s

To measure is to know.

That is a measured value and supports the temp reduction numbers I got. I'm probably 30-40 degree between the oil sprayer and the SERIES R/R .
While Bills 1230 with oversize cooler and 150-152 mains (mine is off a GS550 with 145 mains) got as high as 310, mine only got to about 220-230 deg riding side by side. Over the entire trip I would barely get to 210 degree indicated and that hot spell was one time climbing a 20% grade at 10-25 mph in one lane constructon traffic at 6000 ft .
 
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Being an electrical guy I see vastly superior to a shunt reg. Not only less heat but less wasted mechanical energy. More hp? maybe.

The stator turns off or reduces it's output when power is not needed where as a shunt reg runs the stator all the time.

Does the series reg run reasonably cool? If yes it must be a pwm design. Dan
 
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Being an electrical guy I see vastly superior to a shunt reg. Not only less heat but less wasted mechanical energy. More hp? maybe.

The stator turns off or reduces it's output when power is not needed where as a shunt reg runs the stator all the time. Dan


I measured almost 1.7:1 reduction in average stator current which would coorespond to about 250 watt reduction in my electrosport stator.
 
I only see 4 wires


Three for the stator one for positive is it grounded through the rectifier housing?

I wonder what that peak temperature drop would mean for an extended oil chang interval.
 
I only see 4 wires


Three for the stator one for positive is it grounded through the rectifier housing?

I wonder what that peak temperature drop would mean for an extended oil chang interval.

That is the right part but the picture is not of the actual unit. It is a 5 wire unit and yes the ground is actually a case ground as would be expected.

Not sure about oil interval but engine will be much happier with a 30 degree drop in oil temp. And stator temp will drop by 100-200 (depending) degrees.
 
So whatever happened to your quote? :-s



That is a measured value and supports the temp reduction numbers I got. I'm probably 30-40 degree between the oil sprayer and the SERIES R/R .
While Bills 1230 with oversize cooler and 150-152 mains (mine is off a GS550 with 145 mains) got as high as 310, mine only got to about 220-230 deg riding side by side. Over the entire trip I would barely get to 210 degree indicated and that hot spell was one time climbing a 20% grade at 10-25 mph in one lane constructon traffic at 6000 ft .

How about setting up a proper test? Run your fancy new R/R over a known road course at a specified rpm/speed and take some data. Now switch out the R/R and run the course again at the same rpm/speed ? in the same ambient temperature. Do this and you will have comparable data to judge temp reduction.
 
How about setting up a proper test? Run your fancy new R/R over a known road course at a specified rpm/speed and take some data. Now switch out the R/R and run the course again at the same rpm/speed – in the same ambient temperature.

Let's see now Ed, I had about 3000 miles on a stock 1074 engine, which included about a 2000 mile trip to Reno in the summer of 2008.

Then I have about 4000 miles on a 1166 kit which included a trip to OR via Mt Shasta in 2009.

An then I just got back from a 1700 mile trip to Reno again of about 2000 mile on the 1166 with sprayer and SERIES R/R.

Now can't overlay temp data, but I know that based on the same OE temp guage and same OE temp sensor that the latest configuration is cooler under all conditions (that means up to 105 degrees) than even the 1074 on the cool 70 degF coast.


Do this and you will have comparable data to judge temp reduction.

Well perhaps but that is certainly not required to make an assesment on temperature reduction.
 
How about setting up a proper test? Run your fancy new R/R over a known road course at a specified rpm/speed and take some data. Now switch out the R/R and run the course again at the same rpm/speed ? in the same ambient temperature. Do this and you will have comparable data to judge temp reduction.

You know Ed, I'm sensing some real hostility here. Since you are obviously being irrational I'm going to let it go. :eek:
 
Ed, think of it this way. What do you think putting a 250 watt sump heater would do to your oil temp? Posplayr do know if thing is a PWM design? Dan
 
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