Installed Compufire RR - Way Cool!!

[posplayr]

Ed, think of it this way. What do you think putting a 250 watt sump heater would do to your oil temp? Posplayr do know if thing is a PWM design? Dan

I don’t have schematics but have surmised that it is not classic PWM control. It seems to operate similar to a FET based design (synchronous with the 3 phase AC) but does not short the winding instead opens the stator winding.

From the output voltage reading (14+ volts at 2K rpm)you can tell that they have eliminated the diode bridge losses by doing Synchronous Rectification (SR) coupled with the SERIES control. This provides a significant reduction in power dissipation improvement in the R/R above and beyond the savings in the stator.

I have a comparison (FET SHUNT based to SERIES compare) of the stator winding voltage and current plots in the attached.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/FH012AA_Charging/RR_Tutorial.pdf

Andwhat is worse is the elevated temp the stators running at at higher RPM's

 

[Nessism]

The GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W. I can believe that this new style R/R reduces temps somewhat but I'm very suspicious that it would be worth 30 F, and I certainly don't believe it accounts for the difference between Chef's bike at 310F and Jim's at 220F.

Running a back to back test, on the same bike, on the same day, would take less than one hour. I'll even do it on my bike if someone will send me one of these fancy R/R's. I'd love to eat crow on this, and I'll be ordering one the very next day if what you guys say can be verified.

 

[posplayr]

The GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W. I can believe that this new style R/R reduces temps somewhat but I'm very suspicious that it would be worth 30 F, and I certainly don't believe it accounts for the difference between Chef's bike at 310F and Jim's at 220F.

Running a back to back test, on the same bike, on the same day, would take less than one hour. I'll even do it on my bike if someone will send me one of these fancy R/R's. I'd love to eat crow on this, and I'll be ordering one the very next day if what you guys say can be verified.

Ed,
I probably gave the wrong impression in comparing Bill and my bike's temperatures at low speed. That is not where you would judge the effectiveness of the mods. It was simply to indicate a situation where Bill was verging on thermal runaway and I was still at a comfortable 230 ish MAX. As a general rule my bike NOW never exceeds 210 degF and is usually always below unless perhaps at 105 degF pulling a hard hill climb in 4th gear at 5K-6K RPM

For an apples to apples comparision on the same bike I think I have a miniumum 30 degree C lower oil temp and maybe as much as 40 Deg. However bear in mine I got that doing two mods. A Stator Sprayer and an SERIES R/R.

Wheatdog is reporting here very similar INDEPENDENT results in the 30 degree range which are based solely on the R/R mod alone.

Both are 83 1100E's although I dont know if he is running a big block or not.

A smaller bike might not see as much temperatrue improvement, but it will save the stator just a well on big or small bikes that are reved hard.

Jim

 

[posplayr]

The GS electrical system consumes a good deal of the power produced by the stator, it's only the extra power than needs to be managed in some way - way less than 250 W..

I reported on these measurements. It is about 14 amps at 14.5 volts (about 205 W delivered from R/R). Above and beyond that the SHUNT R/R causes 250 more watts to be disappated in the stator alone. There is another 20-30 watts in the R/R depending on what style (OE, Honda or FET) we are talking about.

Did you see the results/scope plots posted?

 

[posplayr]

Does the series reg run reasonably cool? If yes it must be a pwm design. Dan

Runs very cool because there is no Diode Bridge; uses Synchronous Rectification (SR) and doesn't have to drop power associated with the extra 10 amps of current when the stator is in SHUNT mode.

 

[wheatdog]

My 1100 has the 1168 kit on it . I took my engine temp measurements according to a ten mile run I make at about 75mph on I-12 outside my home town. Stock RR, 200-210. Compufire, 170-180 deg F. Same 95 deg amibient temps. Incredible improvement. Just looking at the surface area of the stator, with the stock RR it must produce some serious heat!

Mike

 

[posplayr]

My 1100 has the 1168 kit on it . I took my engine temp measurements according to a ten mile run I make at about 75mph on I-12 outside my home town. Stock RR, 200-210. Compufire, 170-180 deg F. Same 95 deg amibient temps. Incredible improvement. Just looking at the surface area of the stator, with the stock RR it must produce some serious heat!

Mike

There is still a mysterious increased operating temp we have here on the left coast. I'm imagining it is the high heat coupled with low humidity which accounts for a comparable temp difference of about another 20-30 degreesF.

This is just conjecture because I spoke to one of my officemates who has a Phd in ME/Heat Transfer and he could not offer a definative explaination on the effects of humidity on MC cooling.

Anyway glad it worked out with positive results. :lol:

 

[Guest]

Funny you should mention the humidity, Jim...all this conversation is way outside/above any knowledge I have, but I'll tell you that here in SC, the summer humidity is never below 50%, and usually much much higher. My 82 EZ is stock config as far as the engine goes, but an oil cooler was on the bike when I bought it (no thermostat for the cooler). I have never seen the bike get more than halfway between 160* & 210* marks on the oil temp gauge while at any constant speed above a crawl. At an indicated 75mph, same thing. It creeps up while sitting in traffic, but I always cut it off if I sit too long.

I am leaning toward a new (smaller) cooler with a thermostat, and the Series R/R as I begin to put the bike back together. I really appreciate being to reap the benefits of all you intelligent people around here!

 

[posplayr]

Funny you should mention the humidity, Jim...all this conversation is way outside/above any knowledge I have, but I'll tell you that here in SC, the summer humidity is never below 50%, and usually much much higher. My 82 EZ is stock config as far as the engine goes, but an oil cooler was on the bike when I bought it (no thermostat for the cooler). I have never seen the bike get more than halfway between 160* & 210* marks on the oil temp gauge while at any constant speed above a crawl. At an indicated 75mph, same thing. It creeps up while sitting in traffic, but I always cut it off if I sit too long.

I am leaning toward a new (smaller) cooler with a thermostat, and the Series R/R as I begin to put the bike back together. I really appreciate being to reap the benefits of all you intelligent people around here!

Mike,
I used to work in the summer in Southern Ark during college so I know of the heat/humidity . I'm guessing with a SERIES R/R you would not even need a cooler if those are your current temp ranges.
Jim