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Installed Oxford Hot Hands Heated Grips, now charging issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter craftsman
  • Start date Start date
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craftsman

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So I recently installed Oxford Hot Hands Heated Grips on my 77 gs750b:

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-hot-hands-heated-grips

Everything seemed fine for about two weeks, I used the grips occasionally, turning them off and on about once a trip, since they get uncomfortably hot when left on for 10 minutes or more.

Then one night I accidentally left the grips turned on while the bike was parked, for about 3-4 hours (I know, should have used a relay to prevent this). When I returned to ride, the battery was dead.

I was able to get the bike jumped from my buddies truck, using the usual jumper cable method. Started right up. Perhaps his truck battery damaged something in my system though?

Since then, I put my battery on an auto charger designed for my battery. I have a Ballistic high performance 8 cell battery:

http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/8cell.php

It charges as expected and works for a day or so, but then dies over time. I suspect the charging system is simply not putting any power back into the battery like it should.

Would jump starting my bike off my friend's truck battery harm my charging system? What can I do to verify this is the cause of the problem?
 
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Looks like my theory is correct according to tkent02's post in the other recent battery issue thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1971654&postcount=12

So my friend's truck battery may have overloaded my RR when I jumped it.

Another symptom is that my headlight now runs a bit dimmer at idle. Rev the engine, and it gets a bit brighter. I did not notice this issue before the charging issue.

Looks like I am in the market for a new RR. Can anyone confirm my theory?
 
If his truck was running when you jumped it, his truck charging system might have overpowered your bike's little system . go here and test

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A20

Does this bike still have a the stock seperate rectifier and regulator?

Edit: if you need a new Regulator, opt for a combo unit R/R. best choice these days is a Shindengen SH-775, available from Polaris, as their part # 4012941
 
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Pretty sure I have the original separate Regulator and Rectifier which are insanely expensive to replace with OEM parts:

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/OEMp.../GS750B_(1977)/ELECTRICAL/02780001/5602780035

I'm checking out the Shindigen SH-775 and looking for the best deal. Before buying I need to do the Stator Papers test to verify the RR is the problem and not the stator itself.

From what I can tell (without the multimeter), the bike is making energy mechanically (lights get brighter at higher RPM), but not charging the battery with it (battery eventually looses a full charge in a couple days of commuting). Seems to indicate RR problem, correct?
 
It might indicate an R/R problem and/or something else too. but what's known is that your battery dies and your healight flickers after you think you overloaded the electrics...
Don't you have a multi-meter? Everybody needs a multimeter, someday....at least, a voltmeter. $10 multi at the hardware store, 4$ led voltmeters on ebay...
then you can put the probes across the bat terminals and confirm that the bat voltage is low and therefore not charging....It's all in the Bass-Cliff Hall Of Wisdom.
It sounds a bit like one of your stator windings is blown.A winding gone still allows some charging- a flicker at the headlight might be a symptom.. You might have the old fashioned headlight-loop in the mix too and it might be disconnected/thrashed, whatever...just the R/R's sense wire adrift,corroded could do this, couldn't it?
Plus, so far, my experience with the old R/R's indicates that they can blow the sensing/regulating circuit, but carry on as Rectifiers and thereby overcharge a battery or burn out at least one leg of the stator trying to and thereafter undercharge.
This can happen trying to charge a defective battery as well.

Of course, without a voltmeter, you probably will get the idea to put a refridgerator lightbulb or the like across any two disconnected stator wires and seeing if it glows or disconnect the R/R's +feed to the battery and seeing if IT can burn out the low watt side of a tail-light bulb with high voltage or not- I would probably wear rubber gloves and boots doing it...nor can I imagine how we can discuss how bright they should glow.. so a voltmeter, eh?
 
I have a multimeter but have not had the chance to test things. The winter weather has put things into semi hibernation mode, otherwise I'd be elbow deep in it already.

All the problems arose after jump starting from a truck battery. No the truck was not running at the time.

When the battery gets low, the starter gives an anemic half crank or two before going flat. But kick starting turns things over right away, since the rest of the works are in relatively good order. The grip heaters, lights and other electronics are fine once the bike is running, but I do notice the headlight dims a bit at stops, and gets a bit brighter when revving in neutral. Not a huge dim/bright difference, but noticeable enough.

I'll do the multimeter test as soon as I get a chance, thanks for the tips so far.
 
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If you never worked on your charging system, it has problems. Its just that way. Itf the light gets brighter when you rev the engine, that is a small indicator that there is some charging going on. If it wavers and goes bright and dim, that can be grounds.

Are you sure that you didn't toast the fancy battery?

Also, mention what kind of motorcycle it is. Year and model. They are all very similar, but not identical.
 
Yes...get that VM out, meanwhile if you can kickstart and go, that's a plus.

..."Fancy battery"...yeah, I fear for it too ,...and Fuses, too...they're easy to swap..and have a look at wiring near them for melting signs of melting.
Youre handwarmers should have their own fuse, if they don't now.
 
craftsman said:
So I recently installed Oxford Hot Hands Heated Grips on my 77 gs750b:

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-hot-hands-heated-grips

Everything seemed fine for about two weeks, I used the grips occasionally, turning them off and on about once a trip, since they get uncomfortably hot when left on for 10 minutes or more.

Then one night I accidentally left the grips turned on while the bike was parked, for about 3-4 hours (I know, should have used a relay to prevent this). When I returned to ride, the battery was dead.

I was able to get the bike jumped from my buddies truck, using the usual jumper cable method. Started right up. Perhaps his truck battery damaged something in my system though?

Since then, I put my battery on an auto charger designed for my battery. I have a Ballistic high performance 8 cell battery:

http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/8cell.php

It charges as expected and works for a day or so, but then dies over time. I suspect the charging system is simply not putting any power back into the battery like it should.

Would jump starting my bike off my friend's truck battery harm my charging system? What can I do to verify this is the cause of the problem?
Click to expand...

Have you completely disconnected the grips, and confirmed that the wiring is at least as intact as it was before you put the grips on?

Just wondering if maybe you melted a wire or connector someplace.

EDIT: Does the information that came with the grips indicate the current draw or wattage?
 
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850GT_Rider said:
Have you completely disconnected the grips, and confirmed that the wiring is at least as intact as it was before you put the grips on?

Just wondering if maybe you melted a wire or connector someplace.

EDIT: Does the information that came with the grips indicate the current draw or wattage?
Click to expand...

Web Bike World did a review on them http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heated-motorcycle-grips/ 18 watts each or 1.3 amps. they come with an inline 3 amp fuse so power draw is minimal.

Cheers
 
craftsman said:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-hot-hands-heated-grips

Everything seemed fine for about two weeks, I used the grips occasionally, turning them off and on about once a trip, since they get uncomfortably hot when left on for 10 minutes or more.
Click to expand...
Nothing to add to the discussion that hasn't already been said, but Pulse Width Modulating (PWM) a MOSFET would be the basis for a nice controller to use with those grips.

Gotta be someone who already has made plans for a controller or has drawn the schematics to home brew one.
 
You probably killed the battery.. It is not designed to be totally discharged
 
At $3.50 a piece you could afford to smoke a few if the can't handle the current they claim it will.
 
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That LED controller looks like .(point) 8 amps max.
For simplicity, you could put a 5 volt zener diode in series with each grip- this drops current down to less than 1 amp each grip,so power is reduced by more than half. Of course you need a 5 watt zener, but these can be had for less than a buck on ebay.
 
Dunno.......

Product Description
Product Information Dimmer is a controller that it can adjust brightness infinitely,its control mode is knob-operated control, you could adjust light to the appropriate lighting brightness in accordance with your actual need. Technical parameters ● Working temperature: -20-60 ℃ ● Supply voltage: DC12V ●Output: 1 channel ● External dimension: L89 Χ W59 Χ H35 mm ● Packing size: L96 Χ W64 Χ H65 mm ● Net weight:8 5 g ● Gross weight: 10g ● Static power consumption: <1 W ● Output current: <8 A ● Max. output: 96 W
Click to expand...
 
tom203 said:
That LED controller looks like .(point) 8 amps max.
For simplicity, you could put a 5 volt zener diode in series with each grip- this drops current down to less than 1 amp each grip,so power is reduced by more than half. Of course you need a 5 watt zener, but these can be had for less than a buck on ebay.
Click to expand...

The spec is 8. Amp @ 12v or 96 watts not 0.8 amps. It also specs 1 watt loss which is way better than a Zener. This is basically the same design Rusty speculated about and you can buy it straight from China for $3.50.

In principle this could be used to pwm any dc load.
 
Then one night I accidentally left the grips turned on while the bike was parked, for about 3-4 hours (I know, should have used a relay to prevent this). When I returned to ride, the battery was dead.
Click to expand...

I think you should also have another look at your wiring and rather wire it after the ignition switch or fit a relay. ;)
 
posplayr said:
The spec is 8. Amp @ 12v or 96 watts not 0.8 amps. It also specs 1 watt loss which is way better than a Zener. This is basically the same design Rusty speculated about and you can buy it straight from China for $3.50.

In principle this could be used to pwm any dc load.
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004T9ITQ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A32KVGD9EJYNWQ

This one is only rated at 2 amps which is 2x14=28watts which may possibly work for some glove heaters
 
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