My rear pads are shot and I need to stick in new ones. Does a small wooden wedge really work for keeping the piston open? When and how do you put it in? Which brand should I use? Any tips would be appreciated!! Thanks to all! 
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Installing rear brake pads
- Thread starter chuckycheese
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
You probably won't need anything to keep the caliper open unless your press the brake pedal after you slide it off the rotor. Which you don't want to do!
You will need something to spread the caliper open, possibly to remove the old pads, and certainly after the you have installed the new ones. You wouldn't be able to put the caliper back in place with the new pads in place as they will be wider than the old ones.
I've used any number of things to spread calipers apart wooden wedges, screwdrivers, pliers, whatever's needed for a particular application.
The most important things is to keep the pressure as uniform as possible across the cylinder. Don't want it jamming and possibly damaging the bore.
Don't try to push it too fast and be mindful of the level of brake fluid in your master cylinder. You may need to siphon some off depending on how far you need to compress the cylinder.
Hope this helps. Am sure someone else on here can give you a more detailed description of the process.
Good Luck.
You will need something to spread the caliper open, possibly to remove the old pads, and certainly after the you have installed the new ones. You wouldn't be able to put the caliper back in place with the new pads in place as they will be wider than the old ones.
I've used any number of things to spread calipers apart wooden wedges, screwdrivers, pliers, whatever's needed for a particular application.
The most important things is to keep the pressure as uniform as possible across the cylinder. Don't want it jamming and possibly damaging the bore.
Don't try to push it too fast and be mindful of the level of brake fluid in your master cylinder. You may need to siphon some off depending on how far you need to compress the cylinder.
Hope this helps. Am sure someone else on here can give you a more detailed description of the process.
Good Luck.
A
Anonymous
Guest
PJ said it all, Not nessecary to use a wooden wedge as long as you compress the pistons evenly. They are not really that hard to move. As for brake pad makes its a matter of taste and cash. I prefer composite brake pads and am willing to fork the dough for good ones. Then again I drive like an excaped convict. 8O
Thanks a million!
Thanks a million!
Thanks so much for the great advice. I looked at the schematic and think I know what I'm dealing with but have another question. Should I remove both pads at the same time or try to replace them one at a time? Also, what do you think of EBC pads?? Thanks for the help! :lol:
Thanks a million!
Thanks so much for the great advice. I looked at the schematic and think I know what I'm dealing with but have another question. Should I remove both pads at the same time or try to replace them one at a time? Also, what do you think of EBC pads?? Thanks for the help! :lol:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Do them both at once, don't know about EBS brakes thoug. I have never tried them.
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Anonymous
Guest
THIS COMMENT MAY NOT HOLD TOO WELL WITH MOST BUT I USE THE CHEAPEST BRAKE PADS LIKE JC WHITNEY-BECAUSE THE DONT USUALLY LAST AS LONG(SOFTER PADS USUALLY GRIP BETTER AND DO LESS DAMMAGE TO THE ROTORS)--I LIKE SOFTER FASTER WEARING TIRES ALSO(NOT NECESSARILY THE CHEAPEST TIRES) USUALLY THE TIRES COST MORE
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hmmm Scotty likes things fast and cheap, sorry my minds in the gutter
Got nothing more to say to that.
Got nothing more to say to that.
A
Anonymous
Guest
then how come i dont like you sweeteHankV said:
Sorry Hank i couldnt do any better
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
If yours is like my 79-80 GS850 you don't need to remove the caliper. Remove the plastic cover on the top of the caliper Remove the clips and pins. Move the pistons back into their bores, use a big screwdriver. it won't take much force. Make sure that you remove some of the brake fluid from the resivoir so it doesn't overflow. Drop in the new pads and reassemble. a 15 minute job Good luck Lynn
I would not remove any fluids. Many people never open the reservoir, and logically, it would have been full when the pads were replaced the last time, so there is a better than good chance that the fluid level will require no adjustment. When the calipers are compressed, it will return to its former, full, level. If the fluid was replaced as it went farther into the lines, then the reservoir will be full now, and you will find you cannot compress the calipers, so you will need to look at and adjust the levels.
Additionally, if you remove fluid, and that later proves unnecessary, it will have to be replaced. If you kept the part you removed, and you kept it scrupulously clean, you could put it back in, but please be aware that brake fluid takes on water from the air, (especially on hot, humid summer days) so it will inevitably have some water in it when you put it back in. Not much water, admittedly, but it is cumulative, meaning every time the top is removed and the fluid exposed, a bit more collects, and it does not go away until you bleed the system.
Replacing all brake fluid and bleeding the system every two years is a factory recommendation. (So is replacing the brake lines, but I doubt many people do replace the fluid, and even fewer replace the lines)
As to brake pads...Scotty is right, harder pads are harder on the disks, but both will do the job. Harder pads usually have more heat resistant materials to resist fade, so they have better stopping power at the high temperatures that result from repeated stops from higher speeds. That's also why the disks on most bikes have holes/vents....they help to dissipate heat.
I have had my GS1100G for only two years, and don't know what brand of brake pads came with it, so I offer no comparisons. I have no complaints with the EBC pads I put on it last year and find they can smoke the new Metzelers from 70 mph, and still work well afterwards.
Additionally, if you remove fluid, and that later proves unnecessary, it will have to be replaced. If you kept the part you removed, and you kept it scrupulously clean, you could put it back in, but please be aware that brake fluid takes on water from the air, (especially on hot, humid summer days) so it will inevitably have some water in it when you put it back in. Not much water, admittedly, but it is cumulative, meaning every time the top is removed and the fluid exposed, a bit more collects, and it does not go away until you bleed the system.
Replacing all brake fluid and bleeding the system every two years is a factory recommendation. (So is replacing the brake lines, but I doubt many people do replace the fluid, and even fewer replace the lines)
As to brake pads...Scotty is right, harder pads are harder on the disks, but both will do the job. Harder pads usually have more heat resistant materials to resist fade, so they have better stopping power at the high temperatures that result from repeated stops from higher speeds. That's also why the disks on most bikes have holes/vents....they help to dissipate heat.
I have had my GS1100G for only two years, and don't know what brand of brake pads came with it, so I offer no comparisons. I have no complaints with the EBC pads I put on it last year and find they can smoke the new Metzelers from 70 mph, and still work well afterwards.
S
saaz
Guest
I used Kevlar/Metal EBC pads last time. Good feel and great braking power (for a GS1000 that is!). Work well in the wet. I have GSX1100 (GS1100 in the US) brake rotors with braided brake lines and standard other parts. Did not fade at all on a track day, but the lever effort is a bit more than modern bikes. If I could adjust the brake lever I would be happy with the brakes for road use.
I'm done
I'm done
OK, fellas, the deed is done. Thanks to all of your suggestions, I installed my new pads without a hitch. I fashioned a wedge out of wood and it worked just fine. My old pads looked like they had about 9 stops left in them so it's a good thing I did it.
Just as a suggestion: I worked in the medical field for years and have access to various syringes and used one for this job. If you take a nice, clean syringe and aspirate about 4 or 5 CC's from your master cylinder, after you finish installing the new pads, you can refill it from the fluid you removed without worrying about air, dirt, etc. It also gives you great control, which is good considering how caustic the stuff is. Thanks for all your help! :lol:
I'm done
OK, fellas, the deed is done. Thanks to all of your suggestions, I installed my new pads without a hitch. I fashioned a wedge out of wood and it worked just fine. My old pads looked like they had about 9 stops left in them so it's a good thing I did it.
Just as a suggestion: I worked in the medical field for years and have access to various syringes and used one for this job. If you take a nice, clean syringe and aspirate about 4 or 5 CC's from your master cylinder, after you finish installing the new pads, you can refill it from the fluid you removed without worrying about air, dirt, etc. It also gives you great control, which is good considering how caustic the stuff is. Thanks for all your help! :lol:
