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Installing the dyna s ignition still 2 and 3 plugs not working

  • Thread starter Thread starter trucker
  • Start date Start date
T

trucker

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okay so I just installed the dyna s ignition and I have spark on all 4 but the 2 and 3 cylinder don't seem to be working the exhaust is cold. Any reason why could that be the timing be off I have no idea were the timing marks are. thank
 
could be that you have change the position of the 2-3 coil trigger on the dyna plate,.. did you time the ignition like the dynatek manual says?

i had to change the no 2-3 coil trigger .. it was timed a little to late from the factory.
 
GS-cafe said:
could be that you have change the position of the 2-3 coil trigger on the dyna plate,.. did you time the ignition like the dynatek manual says?

i had to change the no 2-3 coil trigger .. it was timed a little to late from the factory.
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ok so now I am trying to set the timing and now I have no spark in 2 & 3 plugs for some reason i even tried put on a different coil and no spark.
 
A helpful tip. Always put what bike you are working on in your first sentence. If you had spark when you first put it together and now you don't you must have messed up the timing or something, it was working.
 
Sorry 1983 suzuki gs750. long story short I did not have spark before and I figured the igniter was bad so I picked a dyna s had little spark but still ran like crap. so I pulled the wiring harness to replace all the junk wire including the wires to the coils then put back together. and still little spark so tried to adjust the timing then there was no spark could I have screwed it up that bad
 
trucker said:
Sorry 1983 suzuki gs750. long story short I did not have spark before and I figured the igniter was bad so I picked a dyna s had little spark but still ran like crap. so I pulled the wiring harness to replace all the junk wire including the wires to the coils then put back together. and still little spark so tried to adjust the timing then there was no spark could I have screwed it up that bad
Click to expand...
I can't even get the timing light to flash when engine is turning I can on cylinder 1 and 4 but not 2 and 3
 
What are your coil primary and secondary impedances? What's your voltage at the coils (O/W wire)?

Did you start with a mechanical advance or did you retro-fit one? Fiches say that 83 750 E and ES models had no mechanical advance, Katana and T models did.
 
trucker said:
I put the meter on the black and orange wire with key on and got 8.8 and on the 1 and 4 coil I also got 8.8
Click to expand...

What was your battery voltage when you did that? 8.8V is awfully low, but is that because of loss in the wiring or a low battery from cranking?
 
I also did what the instructions said for the dyna s it said to switch the black and white wire to see if I get spark and I did not
 
May be a bad coil too. Check the secondary impedance between the plug caps. For a stock coil should be 12-15k IIRC, plus 5k*2 for NGK plug caps or 10K*2 for stock. So like ~34k for stock coil with stock plug caps. I think - it's been a while. Anyway, the resistors in the plug caps can burn up and jack the resistance way up.
 
An electronic ignition will not operate at those voltages. Try a temporary jumper from your battery "+" to the coils and make sure your Dyna-S gets the same voltage and see what you get. If it works, clean up your voltage drop problem. I suspect It is not a problem with the Dyna-S if you followed directions but a dirty switch and connector problem causing a voltage threshold below the ignition's capabilities.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
May be a bad coil too. Check the secondary impedance between the plug caps. For a stock coil should be 12-15k IIRC, plus 5k*2 for NGK plug caps or 10K*2 for stock. So like ~34k for stock coil with stock plug caps. I think - it's been a while. Anyway, the resistors in the plug caps can burn up and jack the resistance way up.
Click to expand...
I checked that in all 6 coil packs I have laying around including the working 1 on the bike and I get no reading from any of them
 
OldVet66 said:
An electronic ignition will not operate at those voltages. Try a temporary jumper from your battery "+" to the coils and make sure your Dyna-S gets the same voltage and see what you get. If it works, clean up your voltage drop problem. I suspect It is not a problem with the Dyna-S if you followed directions but a dirty switch and connector problem causing a voltage threshold below the ignition's capabilities.
Click to expand...
So your saying run a wire directly from the battery to the coil and also run it the dyna s red wire
 
trucker said:
So your saying run a wire directly from the battery to the coil and also run it the dyna s red wire
Click to expand...

That's the idea behind the coil relay mod, which many of us have done to boost our coil voltages.

It's likely multiple issues. If you're not getting any reading between the plug caps even with your multimeter set to 200K ohms or higher, that's an issue. I just checked my 1-4 coil and got 24.5k ohms cap to cap, which is right down the middle with NGK plug caps @ 5k ohms each. You can unscrew the plug caps from the wires and test them independently. Cut 1/4" of the wire to get some fresh copper and test straight copper -> copper without the plug caps, so you should get ~14k.

If your volts are low due to low coil voltage AND you have really bad plug caps you'd be lucky to get any spark at all.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
That's the idea behind the coil relay mod, which many of us have done to boost our coil voltages.

It's likely multiple issues. If you're not getting any reading between the plug caps even with your multimeter set to 200K ohms or higher, that's an issue. I just checked my 1-4 coil and got 24.5k ohms cap to cap, which is right down the middle with NGK plug caps @ 5k ohms each. You can unscrew the plug caps from the wires and test them independently. Cut 1/4" of the wire to get some fresh copper and test straight copper -> copper without the plug caps, so you should get ~14k.

If your volts are low due to low coil voltage AND you have really bad plug caps you'd be lucky to get any spark at all.
Click to expand...
what do you mean cap to cap I did it with red probe on the orange wire in the black probe in the boot. I thought that is how it was done. so your saying black probe in one boot and the red probe in the other boot
 
To test the coil secondary you set your multitester to an ohmmeter setting above 20k ohms, pull the plug caps of of the plugs, and measure from plug cap to plug cap.

To test the coil primary you measure the wiring harness side between the coil leads at your lowest ohmmeter setting. The reading should be much, much lower: less than 10 ohms (5 or so with stock EI coils IIRC).
 
I just tried from plug cap to plug cap on 200K on to spare coils and nothing at all no reading
 
trucker said:
I just tried from plug cap to plug cap on 200K on to spare coils and nothing at all no reading
Click to expand...

Well, first I'd do it to the ones on the bike. If it's too high to read one or both of the plug caps probably has a burnt resistor on board. Sometimes they'll still fire but it saps some of the energy and you're already dealing with low coil voltage. On the stock coils the conductor is stranded copper in the middle and the plug caps just screw on to the wire, so like I said you can just un-screw them and test the caps independently, and also test wire-to-wire without the caps. Cut 1/4" of wire or so to expose fresh copper. Stock caps should be ~10k ohms each. A stock coil should be ~14k with no caps at all.

I think the resistor in the cap is removable: you can unscrew the contact on the plug end. Some have replaced the resistor with a chunk of brass bar and had success bringing them back to life.

From the electrical odds-n-ends link on BikeCliff's site:

For replacing the stock caps use 2 each - NGK XB05F and VB05F.

Cut off a small slice (1/4 inch) of the end of the plug wire and screw in the new plug caps. This makes a good connection with fresh (uncorroded) wire.
Click to expand...

I have those NGKs on my bike also and I think they're good for pretty much all 4-cyl GSes. As noted they're only 5k ohms but that's just fine.
 
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