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Internal Engine Coating

  • Thread starter Thread starter akreider
  • Start date Start date
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Famous quote "Go ahead make my day". We spend heaps of effort to keep stuff out of engine and they want to put stuff in there. Doh! If i saw correctly u put it in to seal the surfaces after you bead blast the parts. That in itself is a no-no. Sorry if i sound harsh but this is my say. Thanks
 
I was hoping someone else had given it a shot. I cant afford to risk harming my motor. I can only afford to do it once and do it right.

That was just some thing that had peaked my interest as an alternative to polishing the insides of the cases for better oil flow. I wasnt planning on the polishing just wondering if that would be a cheap alternative.

But if its to good to be true it probably isnt.
 
What is the problem your trying to solve?

Or, do you think that there is really something to be gained by doing this?

Had a friend of mine have a set of cases coated by Jet Hot. This was done just for looks. I think the cost was a little over $100.
 
Sure would hate to have that red stuff start to peel off in flakes. Engine sure wouldn't last long with a clogged intake screen and oil passages. :shock:
 
Last edited:
akreider said:
That was just some thing that had peaked my interest as an alternative to polishing the insides of the cases for better oil flow. I wasnt planning on the polishing just wondering if that would be a cheap alternative...
Click to expand...

Why not throw in a pair of 750 oil pump gears to get 30% more flow, and call it a day?:-s

Tony.
 
Gylptal isn't likely to come off if the surface was clean when coated. It is used to coat generator windings that are spinnng at 3600 rpm, in a very warm, usually oily, hydrogen atmosphere. GE makes this stuff. I haven't seen it used inside an engine, but I am sure t would stick. Don't know what the advantage would be for an engine. In a generator it is used for electrical insulation.
 
I wasn't trying to solve a specific problem. I had heard something before about making the internal surfaces smooth for better oil flow. And when I saw that product I wondered if anyone had tried it.

I wasn't about to go and order a case of the stuff. I tend to be a little leery about the magic bottles that give large hp gains.

I was thinking about having my cases powdercoated but I just read an article that its not good to do it. The author stated that the ceramic coatings' excellent insulating properties would decrease the engine's ability to cool itself. I am pretty sure that he specified the cylinder block and heads.

Here is the LINK

Adam
 
Detroit-iron engine builders(read Chevy V-8's) used to do this for oil control and condensation control in the valley area, as well as the rocker arm valve / spring area under the valve covers. Glyptol won't come off if applied on dry, oil-free surfaces. It's tough-as-nails. I've seen 60 yr. old lathes where the inside of the headstocks(home of gears, bearings, shafts) were coated with similar products, and they looked like it was done yesterday. Don't know that it'll do anything good for a GS motor, though.
 
akreider said:
I wasn't trying to solve a specific problem. I had heard something before about making the internal surfaces smooth for better oil flow. And when I saw that product I wondered if anyone had tried it.

I wasn't about to go and order a case of the stuff. I tend to be a little leery about the magic bottles that give large hp gains.

I was thinking about having my cases powdercoated but I just read an article that its not good to do it. The author stated that the ceramic coatings' excellent insulating properties would decrease the engine's ability to cool itself. I am pretty sure that he specified the cylinder block and heads.

Here is the LINK

Adam
Click to expand...

What is wrong with just a acid wash and paint for the engine? I did this on my 1000 9 yrs ago and its still looks like new. The lower case isnt painted as standard but the rest i did with VHT universal aluminum which is very close to the standard silver. Hope this helps

engine.jpg
 
If this product is what I think it is go for it. I have used it in many automotive and diesel applications. I have never had an issue with the stuff peeling off and it does create an ultra slick surface for the oil to slide down
 
Sharpy this coating is used on the inside of the engine cases where is is rough from the casting. Therefore it will help keep the oil off of sides of the cases and moving to the parts that require it.

The more I read about it the more I am seriously contemplating using it. I feel more comfortable with a product with a long proven track record like this one. The main key point I keep finding is that the block must be totaly striped and cleaned (dipped) because if there is any oil present it will flake off like you guys were concerned about.

Adam
 
I've been building high performance car engines for over 35 years, and use Glyptol inside of every one of them for the last 30 years. I never has it peel from a properly prepared block or head set. The purpose of this stuff is to aid in oil return to the sump. Oil tends to cling to rough surfaces and this coating seals the casting to make a slick surface so the oil just slides off
 
I am just posting what I am finding in my research which could be wrong, I am not familiar with this product. Thats why I'm glad to get advice from a fellow GSer with first hand experience. Thank you very much

Have you noticed a performance differance with glyptol?

Or is its main effect on lengthening the life of the engine?
 
I would just leave it. I also use the 750 gear trick with the turbo bikes, but none of the all motor bikes use them that we run. Stock for the gears and no coating is a safe way to go. For that matter, we don't even fill these engines with oil to help reduce the drag and they still hold up just fine.

If you really want to make a simple change to the bike that can actually help if your doing a lot of 0 to xxx runs. Take that stock oil pickup out and cut the two intake tubes off. Weld a couple of plates over the holes to plug them and mount the two tubes towards the rear. Every GS engine I build or have worked on is setup like this. You know the oil just doesn't flow to the front of the engine once the bike starts to leave the line.
 
Do you have any pictures of that mod by any chance? I like the sound of it, far less work than having to do a total tear down.

Thanks
 
akreider said:
Do you have any pictures of that mod by any chance? I like the sound of it, far less work than having to do a total tear down.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I did a search and found nothing. It's pretty common on the Suz's. The old Kaw's used to use a trap door. I am putting together a couple of engines for next year and will take some pictures of one for you.
 
Ok, not the actual mod, but you should get the idea.

Looking at the bottom of the engine the pickup would normally mount to the cases as shown. Notice that the two tubes pickup from the front of the engine.
pickup1.jpg


Notice that the three holes used to mount the pickup are equally spaced and that the pickup can be rotated 130 degrees.
pickup2.jpg


What you want to do is to cut off the tube coming out the side and make a plate to plug the original hole. Drill a new hole in the pickup and move the tube so they both pull oil from the rear. Of course, I have not done the mod in this picture, its just rotated 180, but this is what I want to end up with.
pickup3.jpg


Again, this mod is not for a slow street bike. It's done to keep the pickup full during a high accelerating charge.
 
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