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Is 14.95V at the battery OK?

  • Thread starter Thread starter bonzo
  • Start date Start date
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bonzo

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I was following the stator papers that i got from Basscliff's great site. The first test on my 82 1100g was to check the voltage at the battery terminals which I did. The papers recommend this should be no higher than 14.8v at 5000rpm but my clymer manual says anything up to 15.5v is OK. Mine was 14.95v at 5000rpm. Is this acceptable?
 
My 'S was running at about that and I found that I was popping headlight bulbs.I run the earth from the r/r directly to my -ve on the battery and it came back to 14.8v and is now a happy little vegemite.As to your question , I dunno.There's a lot of clever buggers on here that will be along shortly.Cheers,Simon.:)
 
I have just finished replacing the r/r on my 83 GS1100G with the Honda unit.
It is wired directly to + and - of the battery and it is reading 15.3v at 5k-6k.(With headlight off)
I will monitor the battery to make sure it does not boil dry, overcharge.
It was previously running at 17+ volts for some time, the battery ran dry, but never had any other electrical issues.
 
bonzo said:
I was following the stator papers that i got from Basscliff's great site. The first test on my 82 1100g was to check the voltage at the battery terminals which I did. The papers recommend this should be no higher than 14.8v at 5000rpm but my clymer manual says anything up to 15.5v is OK. Mine was 14.95v at 5000rpm. Is this acceptable?
Click to expand...

14.8 maybe okay for the battery depending on type of battery. If the AGM, then probably will not cause problem with battery. If the unsealed vented type with liguid acid, then may "boil" it dry.

14.8 might be somewhat hard on light bulb life.

Sometimes if the the R/R black wire is not well grounded it can cause the R/R to not be able to regulate and voltage will be way too high (like 15-16 volts). The R/R balck wire maybe connected to the battery box and/or black/white wire from bike wiring harness. But somethimes the battery box isnt well grounded to the frame. And there is a black/white wire in wiring harness that is suppose to ground the battery box, but sometimes the other end of the black/white wire that is supposed to be connected to frame is not a good connection. So that is why you will get recomendation to add own "ground" wire from the r/r black wire to the battery negitive or other known good ground.

And I think stator papers (also found on GSR main page) has you check for this by measuring voltage difference between r/r black wire and the battery negitive. SHould be about nothing.

.
 
Last edited:
Piston720 said:
I have just finished replacing the r/r on my 83 GS1100G with the Honda unit.
Click to expand...

If that RR has a sense wire, that you attached to a switched + wire, check the voltage on that wire. If its less than the static battery voltage it may cause your RR to over charge.
 
Thankyou Dave
The switched wire is connected to the orange rear brake switch wire.
I will check that voltage tonight.
By static battery voltage, do you mean the battery voltage when everything is off and the measurement across the battery terminals?
IF the voltage across the switched wire is less, what is the solution?
 
bonanzadave said:
If that RR has a sense wire, that you attached to a switched + wire, check the voltage on that wire. If its less than the static battery voltage it may cause your RR to over charge.
Click to expand...

Piston720 said:
Thankyou Dave
The switched wire is connected to the orange rear brake switch wire.
I will check that voltage tonight.
By static battery voltage, do you mean the battery voltage when everything is off and the measurement across the battery terminals?
IF the voltage across the switched wire is less, what is the solution?
Click to expand...
With the bike running, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Then measure the voltage at your sense wire connection.
As suggested, your brake light feed wire might have a voltage drop in its source, so you might have a volt or two less on it.
Since it is lower than the battery, the R/R will try to bump it up to equalize them.

If you have to 'fix' it, one solution is to install a relay that is triggered by a switched wire on the bike.
That would give you a very direct, but switched, line to the battery.

.
 
bonzo said:
I was following the stator papers that i got from Basscliff's great site. The first test on my 82 1100g was to check the voltage at the battery terminals which I did. The papers recommend this should be no higher than 14.8v at 5000rpm but my clymer manual says anything up to 15.5v is OK. Mine was 14.95v at 5000rpm. Is this acceptable?
Click to expand...

FYI,
if you want to be thourough go through this revised stator checklist for Part A. I recommended a 14.0-14.8v range v.s. the factory tollerance of 14.0-15.5V; as mentioned 15.5v is too much at the battery and reflects more the poor design Suzuki fielded.


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143019
 
Also measure between the battery + and the fuse block + feed (orange wire)
should have less than .5 volts
 
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