O
Ola
Guest
A week ago my bike suddenly lost power and stopped, drained of juice. I took the battery home, charged it and rode home ok. I measured the voltage over the battery at 3-5K rpm and it did not change from idle. I then followed the excellent stator papers, sans VAC output test from stator since the multimeter I used didn't work with AC.
However, the r/r showed bad symptoms and I ordered a new one. Got it installed and when there was still no charge over the battery I admit to feelings of :-k ,
and
.
I got a multimeter where AC worked (confirmed with wall socket) and measured stator output. 6 volts across 1-2 and 1-3, nothing over 2-3. Sounds bad right? But the thing is there is no continuity to ground from any yellow and ohm between all yellows are spot on 0.9 ohms.
I'd like to have the failure mode properly mapped out and the faulty item properly identified before I order a new part. It could be that the old r/r was indeed broken (haven't had much time to doublecheck the new one) but it could also be that I incorrectly diagnosed a good r/r, although it failed the diode test pr the stator papers.
Isn't it fairly common to have one poor component ruin the other? That would explain a dual failure. And isn't it also a bit weird that the stator ohms fine but refuses to put out proper voltage? What could cause a good stator to display this behaviour? Since I ohm'ed it from the r/r connectors (with r/r disconnected) the wiring should be good too...
However, the r/r showed bad symptoms and I ordered a new one. Got it installed and when there was still no charge over the battery I admit to feelings of :-k ,
I got a multimeter where AC worked (confirmed with wall socket) and measured stator output. 6 volts across 1-2 and 1-3, nothing over 2-3. Sounds bad right? But the thing is there is no continuity to ground from any yellow and ohm between all yellows are spot on 0.9 ohms.
I'd like to have the failure mode properly mapped out and the faulty item properly identified before I order a new part. It could be that the old r/r was indeed broken (haven't had much time to doublecheck the new one) but it could also be that I incorrectly diagnosed a good r/r, although it failed the diode test pr the stator papers.
Isn't it fairly common to have one poor component ruin the other? That would explain a dual failure. And isn't it also a bit weird that the stator ohms fine but refuses to put out proper voltage? What could cause a good stator to display this behaviour? Since I ohm'ed it from the r/r connectors (with r/r disconnected) the wiring should be good too...