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Is the clutch sleeve or inner hub supposed to move on the axle?

Spiff

Forum Mentor
I'm chasing a loud rattling sound on my gsx1100 engine. Since everyone says its the springs on the rear of the basket I bought a kit with new upgraded springs and I replaced those and welded it up again today only to find the rattle noise isn't gone.
One thing I noticed tho when assembling it all again was that the inner hub has quite a bit of movement back and forth when it sits on the axleshaft. I can rock it back and forth and it will produce a kind of ping or clank that is somewhat reminiscent of how it sounds when it runs.
So is it supposed to move or should I buy a new one?
 
Excessive endfloat on well used examples is quite common. It can be shimmed to get the endfloat down to .003-.005in. If you don't wish to use a very thin shim, the back of the hub can be machined to use a thicker one.
Alternatively, the hardened sleeve in the center can be shortened. This requires either carbide bits in a lathe or careful grinding.And measuring.

I use a DTI to measure endfloat. FWIW just perceptible endfloat is about .002in.
 
Excessive endfloat on well used examples is quite common. It can be shimmed to get the endfloat down to .003-.005in. If you don't wish to use a very thin shim, the back of the hub can be machined to use a thicker one.
Alternatively, the hardened sleeve in the center can be shortened. This requires either carbide bits in a lathe or careful grinding.And measuring.

I use a DTI to measure endfloat. FWIW just perceptible endfloat is about .002in.

I'm not talking about endfloat here although I'm aware of the issue.
I'm talking about the inner hub being able to rock back and forth on the axle. Like I can grab it, and move it clockwise and counterclockwise a little bit.
And I'm thinking That isn't supposed to be a thing since both the axle and the hub has teeth?
 

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You're talking about the male and female splines on shaft and hub. If at some time the clutch nut has come loose the aluminium hub may have damaged splines.

Not a lot you can do about that except find a hub in better condition.
 
I don't know about damaged but certainly widened enough for it to be able to move on the shaft. Guess I'll look for a new one or better one.
 
There shouldn't be any play on the splines. Only enough to get it on. If that hub strips, you could end up with a catastrophic engine failure with lots of metal bits pumping with the oil through the system, blocking their lubing. You could spin a bearing and blow a rod, for instance. If I knew the year I could help you scrape one up. EBAY is probably your best start, Wisconsin Cycle Salvage has a lot of parts too. :)
 
There shouldn't be any play on the splines. Only enough to get it on. If that hub strips, you could end up with a catastrophic engine failure with lots of metal bits pumping with the oil through the system, blocking their lubing. You could spin a bearing and blow a rod, for instance. If I knew the year I could help you scrape one up. EBAY is probably your best start, Wisconsin Cycle Salvage has a lot of parts too. :)

Appreciate it but it seems they may still be available new from my phone call with a dealer today. So fingers crossed but even if so it's still a 14day delivery on them
 
New is always a great thing, but a perfectly fine used one at 1/3rd the price is a better thing. However, new really is a GREAT thing. I hate to say it, but if I could get "new" parts for my bikes, and I always check, I would. I just got a complete ZZR1200 front end for $165 dollars, which new would be incalculable (for my depth of pockets). ;)
 
Me too, I grew up scratching just to get by, it's never left me. I love good used and rebuilt parts
 
Just a thought re replacing Hub: When I did the proper clutch basket spring and rivet mod / repair on my 83 1100, I replaced the Hub as well. I installed an 1150 unit. I do not recall details other than for sure the spline assembly more robust than the 1100 hub. I believe there is a thread or 2 that addresses that subject. Oh, used new 1150 nut as well...
 
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I'm not opposed to buying used parts, but the new one wasn't that much. And I don't fully trust the parts breakers here in Norway I mean this engine was supposedly only in need of some new valve seals according to the breaker I bought it from... That was a bit of stretch as it turns out.
 
Not sure if this helps . On my last oil change a couple weeks ago I decided to do a clutch inspection because I could hear some noise coming from that area . The inner hub and outer basket were wobbly, side to side ,not back and forth. Also two springs at the basket were loose and the threads on the clutch nut had stretched. The basket had some deep notches. I installed new track king fibers because old ones were too thin and a APE nut. I filed the basket and re used it, did not want to wait 3 plus weeks for a cnc APE basket during riding season.I was told that a jig is required to mount the backing plate. Put it all back together, no wobbly and no noise.
 
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